Domaine Ligneres 'Piece de Roche' 2002

I remember when I first tasted this wine with one of my wine reps at Jar. I was completely floored and couldn't wait to get it in so I could start introducing people to my new best friend. I thought I was the only person in Los Angeles who must know about this wine. Later, I was eating at Il Grano and discovered Peter Birmingham (a brilliant and talented wine guy) was not only carrying it but pouring it by the glass. Well, at least I was sort of ahead of the curve...

Domaine Ligneres, a family winery located in the Languedoc in the South of France produces the Piece de Roche. The Piece is a term used to refer to the best piece of land or vineyard and this particular Piece was planted by family friend Louis Roche back in the late nineteenth century. What, you say?!!! No one was ALIVE back then! Not true - the 16,000 vines were planted in 1890 to Carignan. CARIGNAN, you say?!!! Yes! And damned good 125-year old vine 100% Carignan it is to this day.

The 2002 is absolutely beautiful still and I am very sad to say that this was the very last bottle I have access to. Jar had long since sold out and I bought one as a memento. The other night, Kara was asking for "something with character, but not so heavy... and not Beaujolais or Rhone!" I quickly realized this was the perfect moment for me to break out the final Piece de Roche 2002.

Of moderate body and very black cherry and plum-focused. The acidity has integrated and it's beginning to show a little more Brett (barnyard) than it used to, but in an acceptable amount that adds complexity. There is an intriguing florality as well and, while it has Rhone-like appeal, one knows that this is a completely different universe. Imminently drinkable and with a lot of appeal, she's still showing great. Kara was bowled over. I wouldn't hold them too much longer myself. For me, this was the perfect last showing and I was happy to have had it again.

While the only other vintage I have tasted is the 2003 (which I was not nearly as taken with), I am suddenly excited again about seeking out this wine. I know the 2004 is on the market - could be a good place to start!