Beechworth, Australia: Giaconda & Castagna

We had the amazing pleasure of visiting Giaconda first thing as we arrived in Beechworth. These are wines that have something of a cult status in Australia and the rest of the world. Impeccably balanced Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz made in a style that nods to the New World, but shows incredible balance and depth. These are very special wines, but also very pricey.

Rick Kinzbrunner greeted us with the story of Giaconda: born in the mid-1980’s with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and introducing Shiraz in 1999. Even more exciting, he’s got a really good Nebbiolo in barrel at the moment that’s “getting better every day”. He’s recently blasted a mine/cellar into the ground on the property that holds his personal collection as well as a library of Giaconda wines. We spent a good amount of time down there barrel tasting, noting that the atmosphere was a theoretical blend of Walt Disney’s Pirates of the Carribean and Haunted Mansion rides.

Rick invited us into his home for lunch where he served some local cheeses, roasted trout, prosciutto, country bread and salad. Moving into his bottled wines, we tasted his recent vintages of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and his 2005 Warner Vineyard Shiraz, which was the wine of the tasting for me. It was dry, earthy, held good fruit, acid and structure. Russ and I agreed that this bottle will best be drunk close to ten years from now. It was an amazing visit and we left with a little more love for Giaconda.

A few short minutes away we stopped at Castagna. Julian Castagna greeted us at the door. An eccentric man, to put it mildly, he explained that winemaking was about just letting things happen. He produces little more than 1000 cases in great years and perhaps under 400 in bad years, if at all. He was coming to terms with the notion that he may lose this vintage entirely if it rains for three days this coming week, as is predicted. Despite his unusual personality, his wines were very good. About 60% of it is sold to his mailing list with a small amount offered to a select few restaurants here in Australia. I would be highly surprised if any could be found in the States. They are worth tasting if the opportunity presents itself. Unfortunately, the “crus”, as Julian calls his best three wines, are in need of age and I fear that most of the bottles produced will never see the time they need.

Despite the contrasting visits and differing personalities of these two wineries, it was an exciting and educational visit to Beechwood. This brief visit reminds me how much wine is about its story and how the experience you have at a winery can shape your opinion of a wine. I would buy Giaconda to support the soft-spoken, humble Rick Kinzbrunner before I would add the Castagna wines to my list. All that aside, the most important note here is that these wines, while perhaps richer than their counterparts down south, are still world class and worthy of adding to your Rolodex.