Sunday, May 23, 2010

The Joy of Cabernet Franc


I am a BIG proponent of domestic Cab Franc! It's so much more interesting and, in some cases, more food-friendly than Cabernet Sauvignon. I know - you probably think Cabernet Sauvignon is the best grape in the world - most do! I'm just saying that the more unique and aromatic properties of Franc, in lieu of the heavy body and drying tannins of Sauvignon,can be an interesting way to switch it up.

Last night, during our usual 1am dinner extravaganza at home, I popped the cork on a Paradigm Cabernet Franc 2003 that I've had in the cellar since it was released and haven't tried since buying. Figured it was about time. The Paradigm wines are made by Heidi Peterson-Barett (who made Screaming Eagle until recently) and, if you don't know the winery, represents one of the best "value" producers out of Oakville. Ren and Marilyn Harris, owners, also own the Napa Wine Company which is that huge crush facility across the street from the Oakville Grocery. They make a boatload of money there, so jacking up prices at the winery has never been a priority. The result: wines from Oakville at good to fair prices, which is hard to find these days.

So, the Franc then - It was showing great! Wonderful herbal aromas: eucalyptus, savory green spices, dried flowers. Still showing New World fruit with a strong core of red/black cherry, just leaning into blackberry. Soft, integrated tannin and still showing prevalent food-friendly acidity. Underlying cocoa and baking spices from new French oak. Everything that is classic about the grape, but offers that ripeness of California that France just can't usually get.

And it paired with Brussels Sprouts!!! When does that ever happen?!!! Mind you, they were braised in bacon, but all that green in the wine totally complemented the veggie and forced that beautiful red fruit to the forefront without getting dried out. Kara was impressed. Of course, it worked with the Filet Mignon, as well.

The best part about the Paradigm Cab Franc is that it's not wildly expensive, but they don't make a whole lot. You can get it through the winery - I think I paid about $40 when it was released. BUT - I also just saw two bottles sell on Wine Commune for about $18 apiece. I'm kicking myself for not buying them. If you're interested, keep your eyes open.

There are other really wonderful Franc producers in California, ranging in styles from French-influenced to those making it taste like Cabernet Sauvignon with that subtle added complexity. Usually an interesting discovery. Please, if you haven't already, give it a chance one of these nights when you're feeling wild and crazy. It's worth it.

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