Schiavenza Reserva Barolo 1999

I've been hoarding this bottle. I'm sure you've been a victim of this particular syndrome as well. You might have a great experience at a wine dinner or tasting room and then covet the only bottle you purchased of some wine. Keeping it as a relic of the experience. Never wanting to open it. Saving it for some special occasion, but no occasion is really perfect or good enough. Sure - you've probably got a few in the cellar right now.

When I first came to work at Jar, we had this pretty little Barolo on the list. I took one to a dinner with some colleagues and we were all singing its praises. Particularly with the roulade of rabbit a number of us were eating. I've been looking for the right opportunity to open the wine again, but never thought I had just the right dish on the table. So, getting frustrated with myself and deciding that I really just want to drink the damn wine, I grabbed dinner from Jar and set out to re-experience this little gem.

Strangely enough, a lot of people think of Barolo for Jar's cuisine, although I never really think of it myself. The food is fairly rich and I always suspect the more elegant wines (despite the heavy tannin) will get overshadowed by some of the sweeter and more robust elements of the dishes. Classically, Barolo should go well with richer and more rustic dishes. I don't know - I must just have a block I need to clear up. And so...

The Schiavenza 'Reserva' Barolo 1999: Bricking at the rim, as one would expect, more from the varietal than its age. The core is darker than you might expect for classic Barolo. On the nose, immediate cherry cough syrup notes with perfumey florality. Riper on the nose than I might normally like. On the palate, the tannins are fine and soft. Atypical of a Barolo this young. The fruit is ripe and surprisingly pronounced with the soft tannin seeming to leave it a little flabby. I didn't remember it being this soft...

Nursing some slight disappointment with this showing, we sat down to the braised meat and suddenly the clouds parted. The richness of the sauce (which includes some sugar from the sherry it's braised in) cuts the ripeness of the wine and provides the austerity I was missing. Miraculously, the earth and florality volume go up a few notches and the ripeness comes into balance. Could it be? Have I been overlooking this brilliant pairing for so long?!!! Ripe enough and plenty drinkable without the food, but becoming more classic and balanced with the meat?! I'M IN LOVE AGAIN!

Someone asked me yesterday about my last amazing wine experience. I had to share this one since it was fresh in my head. He chided me for being a "restaurant guy" and having to judge my wine with food. Of course I do! Personally, that's when I drink the majority of my wine - when I'm eating. Not even considering this interaction can be detrimental to your experience of the wine! I've known people who buy expensive wines and simply won't eat while they're drinking them because they don't like to change the wine itself. I congratulate any wine novice for making this decision. It's all about determining what works for you!