I was very fortunate this past week to have the opportunity to spend some time with Randall Graham, the genius and mad scientist, if you will, behind Bonny Doon winery. Considered the original "Rhone Ranger" when he began Bonny Doon back in 1983, he has consistently been pushing the envelope over the years by poking holes in the staunch and pompous bubble around wine, but making profound product at the same time. His former tasting room in Paso Robles was a clear cut example, looking more like a ride in Fantasyland than a professional winery. But there is no arguing the quality of what's in the bottle; his line-up on this particular afternoon proves that.
In speaking with Randall, I was taken with how humble he still is after all this time. With nearly thirty years in the bag, he still refers to Bonny Doon as "a work in progress". He is trying to shrink his production, which is currently around 35,000, to about 25,000. In fact, he tells me that he would make only ONE case of wine if he could. If it were the most brilliant wine in the world, I assume. I hazard to think of what it might cost or what my allocation would be. A .187 ml for $3000? Sign me up!
On a side note, his video "Vive le Screwcap" is on You Tube. If you have about ten minutes, you should give it a watch. Pretty entertaining and informative if you need a basic education in corkiness and screwcaps. Here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSlmjxQkJRE
On to the wines we tasted:
One of my personal favorites of the flight was the very first wine he poured: "Riesling to Live" 2006. It's the perfect sommelier wine! A Method Champenois sparkler that is varietal Riesling. Bone-dry and perfect as an aperitif or just a fun summer wine. It showed the typical petrol notes of Riesling on the nose, with lime, green apple, crisp acidity and minerality rarely seen in the New World. White peach on the palate as well. I can't wait to get this in to Jar so I can have a full glass or two! A special thanks to Randall for making this available. Heretofore, it has not been available outside of the winery and mailing list.
His flight of white wines was equally as impressive. The Vinho Grinho 2009 is a blend of Loureiro and Albarino. You've got to love his commitment to using grapes no one has ever heard of! And the wine is killer! Florality and a perfumey nose of peaches, oranges, and citrus. The Albarino really comes through. On the palate, it feels round, but the acidity takes over and keeps it feeling light, bringing you back for more. Moving on to the "Vin Gris de Cigare" 2010, his rose, I was pleasantly surprised to find it incredibly affordable for the quality. A blend of Grenache, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, it shows a little of that bubble gum character that I often don't like in domestic rose, but also balanced with strawberry and raspberry, white flowers and a quaffable style. The flavors cling to the palate. Nice value! Lastly, we tasted the "Le Cigare Volant Blanc" 2008, which I was also very taken with. A blend of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, it strikes me as almost reminiscent of a Chablis-like nose in its minerality. Also, beeswax, quince, flowers and a chalkiness on the palate that also includes more citrus and stonefruit characteristics. The Old World style of this is brilliant. I'm even noting a little pineapple on the finish that's fun. We're likely to be pouring this by the glass at Jar next month.
As move into reds, Randall pours me his 2007 Dolcetto under the Ca' del Solo label. Dolcetto?! I love this guy! Who's growing Dolcetto in California?! And it tastes like Italian Dolcetto! Why am I using all exclamation points?! BECAUSE I'M EXCITED!!! Actually, this is a great representation of the varietal. Candied cherries and purple flowers. Completely classic. It's hard to give you a tasting note because I never really find Dolcetto that complex or interesting, and Randall's is no exception, but its similarity to its Italian counterparts is what's so impressive. The 2008 Syrah "Le Pousseur" is nice as well. Classic Syrah, it shows black pepper notes, blueberry, grilled meats, soft florality, singed herbs and a refreshingly moderate body that is not tiring. Another good value drinking wine.
I believe it was about this point in the tasting when I ask Randall if it's a "Fruit Day" on the lunar calendar because everything is just tasting brilliant. He practices biodynamics and if anyone's wines should be affected by the lunar calendar, I would expect them to be his. If you have no idea what I'm talking about - I'll do a write up on it someday. It's sort of hokey and sort of fascinating. You'll either disregard it immediately or begin methodically looking for the truth in it, as I did.
Bonny Doon's flagship wine is "Le Cigare Volant". We tasted the 2007 today. It contains a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. I liked it, but it was not my favorite of the flight. However, I must make a disclaimer that I am not always the biggest fan of Rhone blends such as this. I love them with the right foods, but they are not always my first choice for casual drinking. The wine was spot on, though: Based in red fruit flavors, and showing like a riper Chateauneuf, the body is round, offering peppered meats and minerality. Beautifully balanced, as a Chateauneuf blend is meant to be. A terrific representation of its model. Lastly, I absolutely adored the "Bien Nacido" Syrah 2007. Like a Cote-Rotie, it was rife with savory flavors: bacon fat, pepper, meat, herbs and more. The black/blue fruit is only a framework for all this other cool stuff, which continues long into the finish. This is the style of Syrah I wish more people could nail in California. But when you're getting from one of the coolest growing sites in the state, I guess it's a little easier to emphasize those characteristics.
I am a much bigger fan of these wines today than I was when I visited their tasting room nearly ten years ago. Of course, my palate has completely changed and, possibly, so has the quality of the wines. As Randall said, they are a "work in progress". I am incredibly happy to have finally met the man and been able to pick his brain. I highly recommend doing so if you have the chance at a tasting or event some time in the future. The wines are top notch!
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