Sunday, March 20, 2011

Port Brewing 'Mongo' VS. Russian River Brewing 'Pliny the Elder'


I had a beer tasting today with a new distributor we'll be purchasing beers from at Jar. They have a terrific selection of cool craft brews and, with my growing fascination for beer, I've deemed that Jar's selections are in need of a little face lift. It's very likely I would have blogged about the full line-up we looked at, but I found this particular aspect of the tasting a much more interesting topic.

While this particular distributor carries the seldom seen and highly sought after 'Pliny the Elder', made by the Russian River Brewing Company, it's nearly impossible to get. Very allocated and only a handful of accounts can get their hands on it - and even then, they may only get a case every couple of weeks. This is the beer that I've heard many a Master Sommelier say is their favorite beer in the world. It's a Double IPA that is exquisitely balanced and a life-changer in the category. At least, it was for me...

My salesman brought along an alternative to the tasting today: Port Brewing's 'Mongo'. Also a Double IPA, the word on the street is that the brewer, being a big fan of 'Pliny', has decided to make this homage, or tribute, or rip-off (whatever you prefer) to 'Pliny the Elder'. Makes sense - especially knowing that more people are looking for this beer than can get it. Filling a void, as it were!

While fascinated by this prospect, I was immediately skeptical. Could it be that there was a 'Pliny' wannabe?!!! And I haven't been told by my many beer pimps? Well, only one way to find out if it's true...!

I sat down to a slab of cheeses (to wipe away some of the hops) and decided to see if there was any comparison at all, aside from both falling into the Double IPA category. Unfortunately, there is little information about 'Pliny' on the Russian River website and the 'Mongo' spec sheet on the Port Brewing site is virtually unreadable. So, short of any real technical information, here are my findings based strictly on what's in the glass:

Appearance: Immediately it is apparent which is which. No need to ask anyone to blind taste you because you'd know as soon as you looked at them. While they appear nearly the same hue, the 'Mongo' is much cloudier and must not be as filtered.

Aroma: 'Mongo' has a sweeter core of oranges, mixed wiith the intense hoppiness, as well as a subtle tropical tone as well, along the lines of mango or ripe melon. Also, a bit of starfruit tanginess. Certainly, a sweeter overall character. A complete shift of gears to the 'Pliny': Much more savory character and more challenging to pick out any one aspect of it due to an incredible balance within all of its components. Slightly toasty, a little dill perhaps - not overtly any one thing, but rather a little of all things.

Palate: The 'Mongo' shows much less fruit on the palate than one would expect from the nose. While still fruity, it's extremely hoppy from start to finish, light to moderately bodied, with a medium-length, hoppy finish. Fairly astringent overall, with a pine-y and resinous finish. The 'Pliny', on the other hand, follows through on its promise from the nose: subtlety and complexity all beautifully balanced. Hoppy, but not overly so. Slightly fuller in the mouth, creamier, and seemingly more effervescent. There is also a sweet flavor of citrus here, but no real sweetness at all to speak of.

The Verdict: While it may or may not be modeled after 'Pliny the Elder', 'Mongo' is a totally different animal. It would be in closer competition with many other Double IPA's I've had over the past weeks than Pliny. It's a good beer - don't get me wrong! But I think even a beer novice would not be fooled if tasting these two side-by-side. My preferred choice: Hands-down 'Pliny the Elder'. 'Mongo' is more of a simple math problem to me. 'Pliny' is Algebra.

While I'm clearly a flag-carrier for Russian River Brewing Company and 'Pliny the Elder', by no means do I want it to seem that this was an unfair judging. I was actually hoping for 'Mongo' to show brilliantly against the 'Pliny'. I'd certainly be much happier to have something else to buy when I was craving 'Pliny' and couldn't get my hands on any. But, unfortunately, there is only one Chateau Margaux, despite how many Chateau also produce in the Margaux appellation. I think you get my point...

I remember drinking Tanqueray 10 for the first time and it drawing me into the crazy world of gin (which I had previously despised and had no palate for). A gateway drug, to say the least. Now I have cravings for gin from time to time. Not to say that I choose Tanqueray 10 anymore, but it was just what I needed to help me make the jump into that world.

'Pliny the Elder' did the same for me with India Pale Ale. Unfortunately, sometimes you start out with the best and there's no going back. But there are certainly a lot more IPA's in my fridge now as a result of the discovery: Great Divide 'Hercules', Lagunitas 'Maximus', Bear Republic 'Racer 5', and fortunately a sparce few 'Pliny the Elder'.

No comments:

Post a Comment