Friday, March 18, 2011

A Day with Lewis Cellars














On the heels of our Annual Wine Date, it just so happens that my good buddy Dennis from Lewis Cellars travelled down from Napa to show off the new releases from the winery. We've had a long-standing business relationship that has turned more to friendship now. I've always had a special place in my heart for Lewis wines, even if my personal taste has turned more European in recent years.

The purpose of this particular visit from Dennis was to show the new spring releases, which basically encompass the "Reserve" labels from the winery. Here are the tasting notes:

Sauvignon Blanc 'Reserve' 2009: Lots of ripe melon and tropical notes, blended with freshly ground baking spices. On the palate, chalky texture, but nicely balanced with a rich mouthfeel. Intense for SB, 75% new oak - Chardonnay drinker's style.

Chardonnay 'Barcaglia Lane' 2009: Butterscotch, caramel, fig paste, toast, apple pie, pear tart, overripe pineapple - a plethura of sweet, rich flavors featured in a very BIG package. Some structure here as well. A monstrous Chardonnay and not for the faint of heart.

Chardonnay 'Reserve' 2009: Ripe, but very controlled nose, a touch of herbaceousness, chalky sweetness, with sweet acidity upwelling on the finish. Controlled fruit with terrific balance. Buttered popcorn finish where the oak shines. Surprisingly more Burgundian-styled than my recollection of other vintages. Impressive.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2008: The entry-level Cabernet shows ripe, spicy black currant jam and blackberry with a red-fruited edge. Surprisingly approachable now with very soft structure. Caramel undertones and pie dough underlying. Not one for the cellar, but delicious drinking for tonight, in a plush, ripe and hedonisitic style.

Cabernet Sauvignon 'Reserve' 2008: Significantly more depth and richness than the Napa bottling, darker and more defined fruit, yet holding a freshness to the acidity. Earth tones and charcoal add complexity under the ripe fruit. A chalky sheath of tannin, but completely approachable now. Long, rich, finish.


One of the most interesting, frustrating, and fascinating parts about following the wines of Lewis Cellars is that they can vary significantly from year to year. The Lewis' don't own any of their own vineyards so the source of fruit for many of the wines could, potentially, change from vintage to vintage. Also, they've run through a number of assistant winemakers, including the likes of Helen Turley and Kristoff Anderson, throughout the years since their start in the early nineties. I'm not always sure what to expect anymore, but the obvious through-line is usually attention paid to very ripe fruit and extracted wines.

As for these new releases, I was very pleased to see a more approachable style than I have in recent years. Especially purchasing for a restaurant! These are wines made for enjoying now and in a few years, but don't forget about them in the cellar. In my personal opinion, that's where Napa Valley and Lewis Cellars really excel. Congratulations on a successful new vintage!

1 comment:

  1. Just gave the 2008 Cab a whirl. If by hedonistic, you mean damn delicious, I'll agree with you.

    Steve

    www.thefreewineblog.com

    ReplyDelete