Monday, May 9, 2011

Chicken Cordon Bleu: Old World vs. New World


I've been getting more experimental with some of my favorite home recipes these days. The first time I ever made Chicken Cordon Bleu was in college from a book called 365 Ways to Cook Chicken. Having only experienced mediocre versions of it as a kid, having a freshly made rendition was mind-blowing. I've used some aspect of that recipe ever since.

To vary things up this go-round, I whirred up some fresh bread crumbs for a change. I've been making bread like a madman with this new sourdough starter I'm growing. I also switched up the cheese for a truffle cheese Costco is carrying right now.

Now - the wine! I made this two nights in a row so we had the chance to do another little Battle Royal. On Night One, I served the Sanguis 'Fractured Flowers' 2008, which I had never tried. Matthias made less than 300 bottles of this 100% Viognier from old vines in the Bien Nacido vineyard. I was allocated three bottles on the mailing list. Jar didnt get any... Classic Viognier! Peach and citrus aromas wrapped in white flowers. Controlled on the palate and expressing the typical peach pit bitterness on the mid-palate and into the finish. This Viognier doesn't feel fat or acidulated, which are the major pitfalls with this grape. Beautiful balance and typicity.

As a pairing, this wine actually made an interesting addition to the meal. The wine showed more of an accent on the citrus tones with the food. However, I loved the layer of cling peaches with the fried bread crumbs. It reminded me of being in the south and having fried chicken and peach cobbler. This wouldn't have been my very first choice for this dish, but I was jones-ing to try this wine and there wasn't much chance of it being an offensive pairing.


On Night Two, we took things to the Old World with Pascal Janvier's 'Cuvee du Silex', Jasnieres 2008. Chenin Blanc from forty miles north of Vouvray and planted on the infamous Silex soil of the Loire Valley. I've had this wine a number of times before and it always surprises me how it plays with food. The wine is a funky little girl: the musty wet wooliness of Chenin is there, but also honeyed notes, Meyer lemon, peach, and a green layer that Kara called asparagus, but I though was more in the realm of grass or tea. The wine is definitely off-dry, and while Kara noted that she didn't think this wine had any acidity, she changed her tune when we hit the food. The dish toned down the sweetness and allowed a salty lemon-curd character to shine in the Chenin. The dish really took this wine to another level.

I don't think I can say one of these wines was better than the other. Each worked in their own way. If pressed, I'd probably take the Sanguis, but it wasn't really as refreshing as the Jasnieres turned out to be. Sommelier's Recommendation: Open both and have a glass of each!






On an unrelated note, Cooper seems to have developed an alcoholism issue. This, along with Parker's disturbing love for Prosciutto, concerns me for my safety while I sleep...

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