Dinner at Spago with the Folks

My parents come in every year to spend a week in Palm Desert. They generally sandwich the trip with a couple of days in Los Angeles to round out the debauchery and truly secure the need for a complete detox when they return to Toronto. I've been singing the praises of Spago for a few years now and, after a couple of lunch experiences, they finally relented and agreed to dinner on their first night in.

The wine line-up was top-notch. We opened with a bottle of 1995 Dom Perignon which was drinking beautifully. I've always been a fan of Dom, as cliche as that is, but in blind tastings, I have a tendency to prefer it. Showing wonderful rich fruit and freshness, it's a Champagne that is drinkable today and will likely show well for a number of years to come. It was fantastic with the amuse of Tuna Tartare Cone that is a staple at Spago.

As we moved into the first course, I ordered a Lamb Gnocchi to match the Pierre Usseglio 'Cuvee de Mon Auiel' 2006. Kara, who would not miss the Sweet Pea Agnolotti, saved some Dom for this course. The pasta was magnificent, but I would be lying if I didn't admit to stealing a number of Kara's agnolotti. The butter sauce was an interesting pairing with the Rhone, but the gnocchi and lamb really allowed the perfumey character of the Rhone to shine. The Herbs de Provence and refined dark fruit, florality and pepper all melded beautifully.

Our sommelier, Maria, poured the two Bordeauxs side-by-side blind. Not that it was much of a challenge, but the gauntlet was thrown to determine which was the 1982 Pichon Lalande and 1990 Lynch Bages. We had all had each of these wines before. Personally, I found the decision fairly obvious. The 1990 Lynch Bages was still showing firm structure, primary fruit characteristics with some development, and merely a moderate amount of complexity, particularly in comparison to the Pichon Lalande. The Pichon, however, was exuding savory components that were mindbending: dried mushrooms, dried soy sauce, dried flowers, tobacco leaf and cigar box, integrated black currant and blackberry, baking spices and an astounding elegance. The 1982 Pichon Lalande was clearly the wine of the night and I was so happy to be drinking it yet again.

As we pulled back in to the garage, we spotted our neighbors who dropped in to enjoy a little more wine and beer with us. We cracked open a Marquis Philips 'Integrity' 2002, a Hundred Acre 'Kayli Morgan' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, and a John Anthony Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 to party with. The Integrity was rich, intense, full-bodied and more port-like than wine-like. Not really my style, despite the high ratings. The Hundred Acre was perfumed with dark fruits and full-bodied as well. A delicious California Cab that few would argue showed typicity for the grsape and region. We were toast by the time we hit the John Anthony, but it was a decent follow-up to the Hundred Acre and did not disappoint, particularly for the price.

We hit it pretty hard the first night out, but we like to set the bar high straight out of the gate. This trip was no exception. I have found the recovery getting to be more challenging these years... Oh well.