The 2007 Vintage of Bond

A number of Los Angeles sommeliers and chefs were fortunate enough to be invited to Spago this afternoon to taste through the 2007 vintage of the Bond wines. Bond is the sister winery of Harlan Estate that specializes in terroir-driven, single-vineyard wines from Napa. Paul Roberts MS and Amanda Harlan were hosting the event, along with Wine Director (and good friend) Chris Miller of Spago.

These 2007's come across as anti-2007. That is, they aren't just flashy, jammy crowd-pleasers. They are deftly balanced with ripe fruit and lots of structure in some cases as well. More importantly, they incorporate savory notes and minerality not often found in many Napa wines. And as they sat in the glass, they continued to open and change.

Here is the snapshot recap:

Melbury 2007: Chocolate cherry cordials and graphite on the nose with crushed violets, anise and elegant perfume. Very generous fruit aromatically. On the palate, consistent cherry flavors mixed with currants, vibrant acidity and a red edge to the fruit that keeps the wine lifted. Blackberry seeds on the finish add astringency. Sandalwood and cinnamon layer in throughout.

Quella 2007: Black currant fruit on the nose with florality, blackberry and a soy-like savory edge. Blueberry, as well. On the palate, a silky texture with crushed flowers, earthen minerality and blue/black fruits to support. Long, savory finish with red licorice. A dark wine that also has a darker, lifting acidity.














St. Eden 2007: St. Eden has always been my favorite of these wines and this was no exception. On the nose, rich fruit and spices find impeccable balance together. Blue, red and black fruits all find harmony. Cedar and perfume with a green savory spice as well. On the palate, Dark cherry, chocolate, thyme, crisp acidity and firm, integrated tannins. This is a big wine that stays light on its feet and fulfills everything I want in a Napa Cab.

Vecina 2007: On first smell, it comes across as a little reductive and herbal. This blew off after some time in the glass. Lots of soy, salt and savory components with black currant and blackberry. On the palate, BIG tannins and more of the savory elements from the nose. Minerality, potpourri, anise. A silky textured wine with lots of structure.

Pluribus 2007: A tangy nose, almost reminding me of Syrah, Burgundian mushroom, graham cracker, florality with blue and black fruits. On the palate, ripe and rich fruit followed by powerful tannin. Espresso, eucalyptus and savory minerality. A real powerhouse in every sense of the word. Finishes long and savory.

Paul and Amanda also brought along two wines from the 2006 vintage to show a comparison of the vintage and how these wines come together with just a little time in the bottle:

Quella 2006: Meaty black fruit aromas, dusty spices, savory edge, florality, graphite, roasted mushroom. Tangy character. On the palate, blackberry flesh and seeds, roasted espresso beans, dark perfumey flavors. Finishes very long.

Vecina 2006: A consistent herbal tone that blew off, as in the 2007. Dark fruit aromas, smoke and charcoal. Very structured with savory notes, soft fruit and very firm tannin. Very dry. Black cherry, red licorice, rose petals. Tannic and in need of time still.

Paul grilled the chefs in the room on their opinions for food pairings. Wolfgang Puck threw out a few ideas for the Quella 2007 and even offered his thoughts on how to make such a heavy red work with fish. Paul recommended braised dishes and mushrooms with the St. Eden. And also mentioned that the Vecina has a tendency with all of its salinity to work well with tomato dishes.

This is always an amazing tasting and so interesting to see these very distinct vineyard sites. It's refreshing to think that there really are microclimates and some terroir in the Napa Valley. I will be looking forward to following the evolution of these wines in the coming years. They are certainly worthy of cellaring and tasting in ten to twenty years.