We began our tour of the Yarra Valley at Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander. Many of us knew these wines already from their availability in the US. I have carried Innocent Bystander’s Moscato at Jar, which is a delicious off-dry rose sparkler. We were ready for some entertainment after the drive up from the Mornington.
The Giant Steps facility is now one of my favorite places in the world. If it were located somewhere in Los Angeles, I think I’d be there three times a week. Not only is it a complete winemaking facility, but it’s also a brewery, a bakery, a fromagerie, wine shop, and restaurant. Talk about one-stop shopping! After seeing their cheese-aging room, I immediately asked if they were thinking about making some prosciutto. “We’re working on it,” was the reply.
After a brief tour of the facility, we tasted some wines from across the Yarra with Steve, the winemaker, and Phil, the owner. Overall, these wines were completely the opposite of what you might expect from Australia Shiraz and Cabernet. Actually, some winemakers are labeling their Shiraz as Syrah to draw up notions of the Northern Rhone and Steve suggests that it may be a movement in Australia to use the name alternately if your style is more old world. The two standouts in this tasting for me were the Oakridge Syrah 2008 and the Giant Steps ‘Harry’s Monster’ 2008 which is a Bordeaux-blend. The Oakridge was everything that I love about Syrah: moderate body with meatiness, red and blue fruits, white pepper, hints of smoke and a long finish. ‘Harry’s Monster’ was as the name suggests: ripe, but dry black fruits, firm structure and acidity with florality, underbrush, and balanced oak. ‘Harry’s Monster’ will want some time in a cellar and will be fun to check in with five to ten years down the road.
Phil then drove us up to his vineyard. This is one of the most breathtaking views I’ve had the pleasure of seeing in Australia. It’s a magical piece of land that you really must see to appreciate. Phil gave each of us our own half bottle of Moscato 2010 to enjoy as we looked around which we drank from the bottle like a beer. Truly a great experience!
We enjoyed dinner back at Giant Steps, which was wonderful. It was the first time I’ve had Kingfish since I was a little kid at my grandparents. Although, my grandparents cornmeal battered it and fried the hell out of it in Crisco, while Great Steps was slightly lighter-handed with a sashimi preparation and a delicate Miso sauce. The pizzas were fresh and delicious, and the Iberican ham was nothing short of spectacular. As I said, I’d eat here regularly if it wasn’t a full twenty-four hours travel away from my home.
We ended the night back at the hotel with a bottle of Coldstream Pinot 2008. It was a little too heavy and Sea Smoke-y for my taste. We sat under zillions of stars, watching satellites pass over head, catching the occasional bat fly by, and Jens was teaching me some German. It was an amazing day and I think we all finally felt like the trip had truly begun.
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