A Trio of Cult Cabs

A lot of great wine rolls through the Bel-Air. Very often I don't have the chance to take any detailed tasting notes when sampling these wines. 1959 Margaux and Haut Brion, 1982 Cheval Blancgrea and 1973 DRC Montrachet are just a few of the greats that I wish I'd been able to jot down in my notebook. However, once in awhile, the opportunity comes to sit down to the end of the night and actually taste a few professionally.

On this day, we happened to have a collection of the great names in Cabernet Sauvignon from California: Colgin 'Herb Lamb' 2005, Bryant 2005 and Harlan 2001. When I was still budding as a sommelier, one of the great experiences of my life was sitting down to dinner with a friend who had opened the 1997 Colgin and 1997 Harlan for a side-by-side. While my personal taste doesn't necessarily run toward Cali Cab these days, the opportunity to taste these two mammoths side-by-side again was intriguing.

So, the Colgin 'Herb Lamb' 2005 was showing beautifully. I immediately noted red licorice on the nose which shifted to black fruits on the palate with this red cherry edge that seems to be decidedly Colgin (in my experience). Almost like a bucket of blackberries with a few Maraschino cherries thrown in for good measure. Plenty of spice and anise blended with the rich fruit that is supported by chalky tannins that somehow feel plush. I poured a taste of the Colgin to the guest who was drinking the Harlan so he could also experience the opportunity to taste them together. "I could drink that all day...", he said, before he knew what it was.

The Harlan Estate 2001 was a decidedly different animal. Much more brooding and complex. Bordeaux-like character, but distinctly Californian at the same time. The fruit shows more black/blue with amazing intensity. Perfumey on the nose with black currants, espresso, pencil shavings, gravel, fresh ground cinnamon, and some singed herbs. The complexity here is quite impressive and this wine is still very young in its evolution. It will be interesting to see where this wine is in another ten years. I would say this was my favorite of the three.

The 2005 Bryant was almost a blend of style between the Colgin and the Harlan. The fruit was ripe, but stayed lifted with this really refreshing acidity that helped the flavors of the fruit remain fresh. A little more herbal/rubber noted on the nose, but beautiful black currant and black raspberry and a plush texture. The amazing piece here was the seamless balance. One could get lost in this wine without any one thing standing out, yet there's a lot wrapped up in this package to discover if you want to dig in. And the finish here is long without feeling heavy. Very impressive.

As I said, Cabernet isn't always my first choice. I find I'm drinking them out of my cellar these days just to make room for Nebbiolos and Burgundys. If these wines were thirty bucks a bottle, I probably still wouldn't stock up on them for myself, but I'd be stupid not to put them on a wine list. Sadly, at upwards of $500 for each, it seems sad to me that most people will never experience these really well-crafted California Cabernets.

A New Chapter

After five great years with Jar, and many great wines, an opportunity came along that I could not refuse. My good friend, Chris Miller from Spago, had been trying to find a home for me with Wolfgang Puck. That position finally came along with the re-opening of the legendary Hotel Bel-Air. The new restaurant, known as Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, and hotel are being manned by yours truly. It's an incredible shift of gears from the comfy 80-seat Jar to a 103-room hotel with a fine dining restaurant, but a great experience.

The Hotel Bel-Air is an icon. It's been around since the 1940's and has been the temporary home of a vast number of celebrities. Marilyn Monroe's last photo shoot was at the pool. Nancy Reagan has been a regular for lunch for years. As you can imagine, the famous feet that have tread here are pretty vast.

I look forward to sharing some of the rewarding and challenging aspects of running this iconic property with you over the coming months or years.

A Birthday Pub Crawl in Napa/Sonoma

Even though it's been two months since all of this went down, I feel compelled to share this experience with you because it is often an overlooked aspect to wine country vacations.




Kara and I took a trek up to Napa and Sonoma for my birthday. Working in wine, and it being a celebration, I insisted that we keep the winery visits to a bare minimum. What did I want to do then?! Well, visit breweries, of course! We were fortunate enough to be staying in the guest house of our new friend Fritz, who owns Arietta winery. It was a beautiful little house right in downtown St. Helena.

Our first stop was in Healdsburg at Bear Republic. We dropped in for lunch and to drink through the line-up with some lunch. Their food in not particularly impressive and they miss the mark in many ways, but the beer is really good. In particular, the Racer X, which is their Double IPA was awesome. Unfortunately, they don't bottle it and make a limited amount of kegs. Overall, the beer was indicative of style and I would rate it highly for overall quality.

The real standout in this visit was a surprise. The brewery offered a couple of vintage bottles from 2002, only to be consumed on premise. I immediately ordered a bottle of the 2002 'Olde Scoutter's Barleywine'. It arrived with no label, was decanted for sediment and served in snifters. I thought it was drinking great. I would never really have thought to hold a barleywine for nearly ten years, but I would've bought a case to take home for after-dinner consumption, if they would have only allowed you to buy it.

We decided to relax at the guest house on that evening. A quick trip to Dean & DeLuca for some meats and cheeses (and some Pliny the Elder, which they have in great supply) brought us to the backyard. I also opened a slightly oxidized bottle of 1997 Chateau d'Yquem to enjoy. The color seemed a little dark for its age, but it still tasted like Yquem: honeyed apricots, citrus, orange marmalade and chamomille tea. Hard not to like even from a slightly-off bottle. I should also mention that the 1994 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon was drinking beautifully and in its peak drinking.

For my actual birthday, after a hike with the dogs (who had tagged along for this trip), we drove over to Lagunitas. If this place were down the street, I'd be there all the time. It has a very Key West-feel with a huge patio and open bar. We tasted through the lineup here and I still really love their IPA and PILS. They're staples at my house, when I have the opportunity to get them.

And then my crowning moment of glory and real reason for the trip: Russian River Brewing Company. We took our seats at the bar and embarked on one of my favorite journeys - the Board at RRBC. Generally, it includes around 20 beers that are currently being poured on tap. My favorite surprise today was the 'Sound Czech Pilsner', which I brought home in a growler. They only brew this once a year in honor of one of their favorite bands. Pretty cool stuff! Like a true tourist, I left with a t-shirt, glasses, and growlers. Their pizza is pretty damned good, too.

We quickly dropped into our favorite little haunt in downtown Calistoga (that I can never remember the name of...) for a Bloody Mary or two. They really make one of the best Marys. I'm fairly certain they add some pepperoncini juice to the mix and use a hot sauce other than Tabasco. I'd highly recommend it, except that I can't even tell you the name of the place...

We did power through a few wineries' wines while we were there, of course. Pappapietro-Perry in the Russian River Valley was a nice surprise. I have traditionally liked their wines and they're very nice people. Any of the Pinot Noirs or Zinfandels are worth trying. In addition, we had some wines from Tor in Tor's living room. These are really nice California Cabernets, but perhaps a little pricey. And, of course, we tasted through verticals of Arietta wines. I've developed a new love for Arietta on this trip, having not had it for a number of years. They are nice wines, fairly priced, and their white wine called "On the White Keys" is really delicious.

It was decidedly one of our best trips to wine country ever. For the first time, Kara and I emphasized relaxing instead of working. I think I finally caught a glimpse of why the rest of the world comes to Napa and Sonoma. It's kind of nice. I'll have to make the effort again in the future.

Dom Perignon 2002

I've been waiting for this moment for a while now. The opportunity to dive into the 2002 Moet & Chandon 'Dom Perignon' has finally arrived. Sure - it's an obvious choice and sommeliers are not supposed to be obvious, but this is one of my guilty pleasures. To be quite frank, I don't feel bad about liking Dom Perignon.

I remember my first taste of Dom. It was 1990 and my step-sister had just been born. We were in the hospital room and my dad busted out this bottle. (I couldn't tell you what vintage - heck, I didn't even know what a vintage was back then...) He poured for everyone, including me, into one of those cheesy Dixie cups and we all toasted. I remember, even then, thinking it tasted chalky and like balloons. How does a twelve-year old describe minerality anyway?

To this day, I often choose Dom over the other mainstream prestige cuvees in blind tastings. There's something about the fine bubbles, crisp acidity, minerality and well-integrated yeast flavors that really speaks to me. I think they really nail the balance and the elegance in a premium-level Champagne.

On to the 2002! Well, what do you eat with Dom Perignon?! The answer is - ANYTHING!

In our continuing late night saga to gain fifty pounds (not really...), we dined on a smorgasboard of leftovers at 2am. The menu included a homemade Lasagna and Beef Stroganoff. Certainly not the first dishes you'd think to pair with Champagne, but the wine showed well, continuing my belief in Champagne's inherent versatility with food. The 2002 vintage is very floral aromatically, showing white flowers, honeysuckle, melba toast and chalky minerality. On the palate, the wine is crisp and lively, shows very dry, and integrates some more honeyed pear flavors with fresh bread. I've always liked this undescribable earthy layer to Dom thay I was really enjoying tonight with the mushrooms in the Stroganoff.

I once wrote in our "Sommelier Selection" page for Jar that it seems silly to recommend Dom Perignon on a list of quick picks because we all know it's good. I sort of feel the same way here. However, sometimes I just have to shout the obvious from the mountaintop. Here's to hoping you get to enjoy a glass of this delicious 2002 Dom Perignon as well.

Brokenwood Semillon 2010

Wow! What a lunch at home... A lazy Sunday at home prompted a "clean-out-the-fridge" meal that always seems to turn out surprisingly well. Kara was marvelling as we walked the dogs that some of our spontaneous lunches are better than meals we get out. I have to say, I think I may have even impressed myself.

As an appetizer, I prepared a Jar recipe that I've never tried to execute at home: the Lump Crab and Melon Salad in a Jalapeno Vinaigrette. Working with the materials I had, I used a red watermelon and an "orange flesh" melon, which I had never tried before. Sadly, the lump crab was from a container and not fresh, but tossed in the vinaigrette and treated to some torn mint leaves and red onion, I didn't mind at all. This is my favorite summer salad this year. I totally dig a Kabinett Riesling with this usually, but today Kara and I just shared a Kern River "Just Outstanding" IPA, which worked fine. Simcoe hops add an almost sweet citrus and citrus pith that has savory bitterness on the finish. I just discovered this bottling and, as far as I'm concerned, the name is not an exaggeration.

As a main course, I prepared a simple lemon beurre blanc with some crushed garlic cloves and crushed red pepper. Tossing in some cooked store-bought shrimp, I served this "scampi" over a homemade Sage-infused rice and garnished it with a little fresh parsley. I went a little heavy on the lemon in the sauce since I knew I was going to open the Brokenwood Semillon 2010 from Hunter Valley in Australia. The pairing was perfect! The wine, which has a core of very crisp lemon and minerality, matched the acidity in the sauce and drew out the sandier pear flavors in the wine, without altering its character. Both the dish and the wine were continuously refreshing each other and I think we both ate more than we intended to. Kara commented that each bite of the rice was like an burst of lemon and butter on the palate. Now - why has no one made a chewing gum like this...?

I am continually finding myself more drawn to these Australian whites. At a meager 12% alcohol, and with such clean, simple flavors, this Brokenwood Semillon is a sommelier's dream! I am suddenly thinking of all the things I want to try it with. Whoops - better go buy some more first, I guess...

Cooking Class at Jar: August, 2011

For our August cooking class, we had a very intimate group. The menu included her simple (but wonderful) Heirloom Tomato Salad as a starter. For the entree, she prepared her Braised Ox Tail along with Long-Cooked Kale. Our pastry chef prepared a Peach Cobbler for dessert. Despite not being an entirely "summer-y" menu, I would not be upset to be eating any of these things for lunch this month.

I poured the Ca' del Roro Prosecco, Brut NV as an aperitif. As always, I emphasized how wonderful Prosecco can be as an easy quaffer, a start to dinner, or the only way to begin drinking at 11am when class begins. A wonderful palate primer, it features very clean green apple and hay flavors, with crisp lemon and also an intersting honeyed note as well. Very classic, not particularly sweet or overly fruity, it's a loverly and inexpensive little sparkler.

To match the Heirloom Tomato Salad, I leaned on my new favorite summer wine: the Schloss Gobelsburg 'Gobelsburger', Gruner Veltliner 2010. We're pouring this by the glass at Jar at the moment. Produced from vines under the age of twenty years in the Kamptal region of Austria. The fruit and acidity in this wine, as well as the savory minerality, make this imminently easy to drink, despite its youth. Classic "green" flavors that fit the radish/asparagus profile with the spicy white pepper on the finish. Lots of citrus and even a peachy edge. Completely food-friendly and I'm likely to drink my case of this before the end of September.

The Ox Tail is probably Suzanne's favorite dish on the menu, so I pulled one of my favorites from the list for the class: the Brovia Barolo 2005. I've written about this before, but I will happily express how wonderful and classic this wine is again. The tar and rose aromas with the solid core of both ripe and dried cherry is mesmerizing. Elegantly spiced, to match the spices in Suze's recipe, and with firm tannin that is drinkable on its own, but serves the fattiness of the ox tail as well. I liked the regional match of the cippolini onions with Italian wine as well.

Another great morning in the Jar kitchen with both new and old friends!

Liquid Farm

I just have to tell you about this wine! I generally only drink the same bottle once a year - sometimes twice. I've drunk this three times already this month! Although, I hazard to put the word out because they only made two barrels of it (about fifty cases...). I think it bears some talking about, though.


Liquid Farm is a brand new project in the Santa Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County. Known for its particularly cool climate, Pinot Noirs from this AVA have been flying off the shelves for a number of years now due to a little film called "Sideways". While a winemaker's style can sometimes get in the way of expressing what this climate has to offer (in cases such as Sea Smoke), there are a few producers who are working to showcase what can be accomplished in this area from the Old World perspective. Some of those producers are dabbling in Chardonnay, due to its classic roots in Burgundy and notoriety for expressing terroir and minerality.

With the winemaking team from Dragonette Cellars to assist, Liquid Farm has set forth their goal of showcasing California Chardonnay in its best light. Their focus is on typicity of the grape, minerality, food-friendly acidity, balance, and overall drinkability. Their efforts to avoid manipulating the wine really shine through: no acidification, new oak or heavy alcohols. This is Chardonnay in its most natural light.

The Liquid Farm 'White Hill' Chardonnay 2009 succeeds at every level of what they set forth to accomplish. Beautiful flavors of Golden Delicious apple and Anjou pear, a soft cinnamon note, quince, a touch of lemon sorbet - and stoney minerality like water rushing over rocks. The acidity makes this wine completely refreshing and, in my experience so far, completely food-friendly. I've enjoyed it with Dim Sum, where it was truly amazing (especially with curried noodles), and also Truffled Chicken Cordon Bleu. Both occasions were a real treat.

In addition to the two barrels of 'White Hill', they have also produced two barrels of another Chardonnay called 'Golden Slope', which I have not yet had the opportunity to taste, but will definitely seek out. One wonders how such a large effort that yields such a small, albeit amazing, result is worth the time and energy involved. All I can do is applaud their passion and dedication. And, of course, drink their wine.

It's a real treat, as a sommelier, to find producers who are undertaking the challenge of introducing the world market to a new style. I'm pleased to say we have been pouring The Paring Chardonnay 2009 by the glass at Jar for some time now, another crisp Chardonnay without oak influence from Santa Rita Hills. I hope that this is a trend that will continue in the years to come. From what I've seen, people are responding in a positive way to these changes, although they may not be able to put their finger on how these Chardonnays are different from the ones they normally drink. But when they order a second glass, it tells me that Chardonnay drinkers are open to the change.