A random Thursday at the restaurant produced some very exciting wines. And, more importantly, one of those elusive moments that every sommelier seeks: a wine that grabs you by the shoulders and makes you take notice. Working a full dining room doesn't always offer the opportunity to take detailed notes, but I reserved a few minutes at the end of the evening to intellectualize and marinate in these wines.Having just brought some of the 2009 Ramonet "Le Montrachet" on to the wine list, I was very excited to have the opportunity to taste the 2001 Ramonet "Le Montrachet". On the nose, it exudes lemongrass and ginger making me crave some coconut milk soup. Also, lots of toasty oak and minerality. The Asian flair continues on to the palate with crisp lemon, baked apples and creme brulee. The oak dominates in the finish, almost to a fault. Although, diving in for another sip makes it all better... I found this to be more interesting than profound, but it was holding up well and would certainly not scoff at it.
A side-by-side of Forey "Gaudichots" Vosne-Romanee from 2004 and 2005 was also interesting. The premier cru Gaudichots vineyard is sometimes called "baby La Tache" as it is directly next door and, in part, owned by DRC. With a miniscule production of about 1500 bottles a year, it's nearly as hard to get your hands on as La Tache. The 2004, a vintage which I find is showing better now than '05, was overrun on the nose with scorched cedarand smokey tobacco. Black cherry also figures in, but masked by the wood. On the palate, a stronger fruit presence including blackberry, black cherry, iron, more cigar box and dark chocolate on the finish. A little out of balance overall, but nice for an average vintage. The 2005 was a bit closed in on the nose, which seems typical of the vintage these days. On the palate, much darker fruits than the '04 with black cherry, blackberry, very strong iron and mineral components. Much deeper, much darker and more animalistic with strong soy and mushroom broth tones. Both of these wines are in need of some more time in the bottle.
Another side-by-side of Burgundy brought the Cathiard "Romanee-St.-Vivant" 2003 which I found to suffer from the overblown character of the vintage. Floral and slightly volatile aromas that one taster noted as cheese. I thought it was rather offputting, personally. Better on the palate, the rich (almost jammy) red fruits came across as rather baked. An almost new world-y character, I was underwhelmed. But before you think I'm just a snob about the 2003 vintage, I must sing the praises of the Liger-Belair "La Romanee" 2003. Liger-Belair, richly steeped in the history of great Burgundy, has been out of public consciousness for a long while, but with their monopole of "La Romanee" is coming back with a vengeance. Even in 2003, this seamlessly balanced wine effuses mushroom, cedar and red fruit aromas that hinder you from sipping because you can't bear to stop smelling them. The balance on the palate is every bit as amazing: Ripe (but controlled) cherry and strawberry jam, pomegranate, and earthen tones that add complexity to a plush, hedonistic, but still typical Burgundy-style. There is also a savory character; dare I use the word umami? I wouldn't call this wildly complex, but I would be incredibly happy to drink this all night.
And finally, the moment I spoke of at the start of this rant:
For years I have tasted Screaming Eagle on someone else's dime and, even having not committed any money to experiencing it, always wondered why people pay the price for it. On this night, it was thanks to the 1995 Screaming Eagle that I have tasted the best California Cabernet Sauvignon I have ever had the pleasure to taste (to date). I have heard it said that Screamers are the Pauillac of California, but this is the only occasion on which I felt it lived up to the comparison. Aromas of graphite, cedar, cigar box, black cherry and currant are all deftly intertwined. They are dark and light at the same time, and dusted with the faintest hint of crushed sage. On the palate, it is rich, but not weighty or thick. Bordeaux earthen characteristics that are often missed in New World Cabernet. This is right in its window but no where near falling off. A perfect balance of fruit, earth, wood and acidity which feed each other in a reciprocal "give and take". The finish is long and driven by the refreshing acidity.
I often tell the staff that I am bored by California Caberent. That all it really does is show varying degrees of ripe fruit and oak with no minerality or earth to speak of. Basically a matter of how ripe and oaky do you want it? On this day, I stand completely corrected and humbled at the hands of Heidi Barrett, who I have always claimed to be a fan of, but never been a collecter of her wines personally. If anyone wants to part with any '95 Screamer at its release price, give me a call...
