Late Night with a Working Sommelier

The Beer Cellar: First Dip

2012-02-08T13:16:00.000-08:00

It has officially been a year since I started the beer cellar. You can go back to last February and check out the blog when this whole effort began. The original plan was to taste aged versions of beer against their current release counterparts to determine if beer-aging was, in fact, beneficial. I've heard arguments from both sides. Naturally, I just had to find out for myself! And with no real "aged beer" outlets to frequent, one just has to age them personally.

One of the beers I cellared is the Russian River 'Redemption', of which I am a big fan. A Blonde Ale produced in 375ml cork-finished bottle. According to the side of the bottle, Russian River Brewery says it will hold up for one year in the cellar. I had intended for this beer to be my thermometer on how the aging would show for some of the longer-term beers. With only a year of age, I wasn't really expecting a wildly different showing , but I was certainly chomping at the bit to find out!

The Aged 'Batch 009' Redemption showed soft lemon and floral notes with a pronounced yeasty/bread aroma. Prevalent hoppiness with very mellow fruit/citrus characteristics. A notably creamy mouthfeel. Savory components stand out and, despite its strong hop flavor, nicely balanced. Kara, on the other hand, felt that, in comparison to the fresh version, this beer just tasted old and tired.

The Fresh 'Batch 011' Redemption, to Kara's point, was much more vibrant with crisp lemon flavor and a much fresher hop flavor (leaning into that marijuana smell). The citrus flavors were much racier and the "taco shell" savoriness that I always note in Russian River beer was back. The creamy mousse-like mouthfeel was also still present, but with the prickly texture of youth.

I agree with Kara's point that the aged 'Redemption' shows tired. But it's the same case with aged Champagne: if what you like is the freshness and the bubbles, then you're never going to like old Champagne. I found the aging of this particular beer interesting, but unnecessary. It's certainly not worth the effort to rotate a stockpile of cases of 'Redemption' for a year.

On the other hand, Kara made a pot of chicken chili on this particular evening. I actually thought the aged 'Redemption' was a better pairing with the meal. The vibrant lemon character of the fresh batch didn't meld as well. The mellow style of the aged batch was a better fit and I was actually quite glad to have it.

Am I still excited about the future of this endeavor? I must say, I have higher hopes about the results of the higher-alcohol Barleywine styles now than the Golden Ales. I'm not going to get off the ride, though. My game plan is laid out and I intend to see it through. Next stop: Russian River 'Damnation' and Sour Ales. See you there soon!

A Wine Lunch in Bel-Air

2012-02-06T11:08:00.000-08:00

There are a lot of impressive cellars in Bel-Air. Deep with age and rife with amazing producers that command insane amounts of money these days, but were purchased for modest amounts on their release. For example, last night I had the opportunity to open and taste 1966 Latour, 1970 Leoville Las Case, 1979 Haut Brion, 1982 Vieux Chateau Certan, and a 1980 Corton Charlemagne. And these were all from different tables!

We often have special events in our private dining room. On this particular day, we hosted a wine lunch for ten gentlemen. Flights of four wines per course were provided by a designated guest. I actually liked this approach as it afforded one the opportunity to showcase a theme or a producer from their cellar. Both cases were provided in this tasting.

We started with the St. Chamant 'Blanc de Blanc' Champagne NV from magnum. Aromas of freshly baked bread and lemon, nice minerality on the palate with baked apple and Granny Smith apple combined, a crisp mouthfeel and a ripe, fruit-filled finish driven by refreshing acidity. This was a lovely Champagne, great aperitif wine and drinking beautifully.

For the first flight, we poured a selection of Chablis from various producers and vineyards, paired with out Kampachi Crudo. The William Fevre 'Fourchaume' 2005 was good, but lacking real character. It had a reserved nose of chalk and an austere presence on the palate with some mushroominess, but all the fruit showed on the finish. Also - slightly bitter with perhaps too heavy an oak presence, especially noted on the finish. On the other hand, the Dampte 'Fourchaume' 2008 was spectacular! Very minerally aromas that had some mustiness. On the palate, lots of citrus, stone, earth, mushroom. Little to no oak presence at all. Super-long and elegant finish. This hit all the marks for me. Pie dough, chalk, apple and citrus - awesome! To follow, the Long-Depaquit 'Moutonne' 2005 by Albert Bichot was fine: green apple, lemon pith and juice - very fruit driven with nice acidity, but little earth to speak of. Some chalkiness as well, and well-integrated oak. The very disappointing Dampte 'Bougros' 2010 was a tragic follow-up to their 'Fourchaume'. California Chardonnay-like aromas and overblown oak. Hard to dig out the fruit under all this oak. Tastes like a well-made Sonoma Chard, but nothing like a Chablis. This was tragic...

Moving into the reds, we began with no less than a flight of Grand Cru red Burgundy from the 2001 vintage. 2001 was a mediocre vintage, at best, but these wines were showing beautifully. The Mongeard-Mugneret 'Clos Vougeot' 2001 had beautifully perfumed aromatics. Its core of cherry and mushroom supported an overlay of tart pomegranete and cranberry swirled with iron and a hint of campfire smoke. A noticably long finish on this as well. From the same producer, the Mongeard-Mugneret 'Grands Echezaux' 2001 was rife with mineral and earth notes: Must, tomato leaf, iron, beef, blood, sage all laying on a frame of cranberry and blackberry with hints of pepper. Supremely earth-driven and structured still. Next, the Nicolas Potel 'Romanee St. Vivant' 2001 was a disappointment after the previous two wines. The Mongeard-Mugneret Grand Crus showed such character and precision in addition to expressing what that producer had chosen to say about the vineyard site. The Potel was wishy-washy in this flight showing very little character or focus at all. At best, it was an attempt to be crowd-pleasing that ultimately resulted in a middle-of-the-road and uninteresting showing. Additionally, the oak seemed a little dominant.

And then I met the Meo-Camuzet 'Richebourg' 2001... One often speaks about those moments when Burgundy is so good that it stops you in your tracks and you realize what everyone is chasing. This was one of those moments. An exquisite example of balance, with undulating layers of seamless fruit and earth. Meat, perfectly ripe red fruits, steel, forest floor, pepper - all harmonious and elegantly intertwined. My last word from my tasting notes: "Wow". If you can find this wine, at around $700 you may think twice. I would make an argument that it is worth every penny and an experience not to be missed.

How does one follow these two flights? Move into one of California's Grand Crus and showcase a vertical of Phelps 'Insignia', of course! I poured a broken vertical of the 1980, 1990, 1992 and 1997 from Magnum. The 1980 'Insignia' was showing beautifully and in the "old style", with lots of spices, anise and some musty earth, but still holding blackberry and currant fruit. I found this even more youthful than anticipated with its present acidity and a strong spicy finish. The 1990 'Insignia' shows the signs of the modern-style, with lots of oak spice and ripe black fruits. Some leather added an interesting layer and the tannins were still strong, but with lovely acidity to keep it vibrant. Blind, I would not guess this to be as old as 21 years. The 1992 'Insignia' was not showing its best. The oak came across as sweeter and more pronounced and dominated some musty red fruit. With herbal, dusty character and too acidic on the palate, the wine comes across as austere and the fruit may potentially be falling out of this vintage. I've had varying degrees of surprise and disappointment with the 1997 'Insignia', but I was intrigued to taste it from magnum again. This was one of my better experiences with this vintage in recent years: Ripe black fruits layered with baking spices, some herbaceousness, and fig paste. The fruits are very ripe with black cherry, blackberry and currant. One of the better showings for the '97 which I still hold is sketchy and may not hold up in the long run.

The final flight was a collection of aged Malbecs. I took notes on these, but they were merely fodder to get drunk on after the previous wines, as far as I'm concerned. The highlight was a Bodegas Norton 'Finca Perdriel' 2001 that at least showed some Malbec character without being over-the-top (like a Rolland 'Yacochuya' 2001 that hosted 16% alcohol). I have nothing against Malbec, but this flight, that also included the Val de Flores 2002 and Alta Vista 'Alto' 2003 did nothing for me.

To wrap up the lunch, I poured some 1977 Warre's. 1977 is my birth vintage and I'm always excited to check in on the one style of wine I can still expect to show well from this year. The Warre's was showing exceptionally Cognac-like aromas of stewed cherry, orange rind, brown sugar and peach skin. A lip-smacking sweet attack on the palate with a red fruit core that turns Cognac-like again and expresses lovely layers of complexity. Nice stuff.

These kinds of days are the reason one does this job!

Drouhin Puligny Montrachet 2009

2012-02-04T10:54:00.000-08:00

When we inherited all the wine back, our determination was to pour some of the items we had in quantity by the glass. Just to bring down our inventory a bit. This afforded some diners to try some really amazing wines at stellar prices. Single-vineyard Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, Palmaz Cabernet 2001, Lewis Reserve Cabernet 2003, Ramey 'Hyde Vineyard' Chardonnay, Arnaud Ente 'Clos des Ambres' Meursault, and many more. In some cases, we were practically giving these things away.

We've passed that period and are now settling on the wines we'd like to use for some time. One of these wines is the 2009 Joseph Drouhin 'Puligny Montrachet'. We had a supply of the 2005 in our cellar and decided to use it. The response was very positive so I decided to move forward into the current vintage. Drouhin is a big producer, but the wines are solid and seem to hit all the marks.

This Puligny is no exception. Very classic fruits - apples, pears and crisp lemon. The minerality is played way down, but it's in there. The oak has presence, but not out of balance at all. In my personal opinion, it's very "middle-of-the-road", but also a really delicious by the glass option. I'd certainly take it over any of the domestic wines and it works amazingly with our Dover Sole.

I hope to see you for a glass of Puligny on your next visit!

Building a Cellar

2012-01-22T10:36:00.000-08:00

When the hotel shut down two years ago for the remodel, the powers-that-be made the decision to send all of the wines to an offsite storage. A service came in, boxed everything up and hauled it all away for a two-year hibernation. The sommelier who oversaw its departure would not be back and the new guy (yours truly) would see it all for the first time when it returned. Sound scary? It was...

The main storage for the hotel is an underground wine tunnel. It was originally a horse stable back in the day, but now houses some of the finest wines in the world. From white horses to Cheval Blancs... Not a bad trade! A series of stairs mark the entrance, making dollies and hand trucks near impossible to use. So everything goes in by hand pretty much - case by case.

And on this particular day - 1300 cases were returning to their home.

We were completely prepared to receive the 14,000 bottles of wine. We'd re-installed the racks, built a brand new shelving system and laid out a game plan to get it all put away. On a bright and beautiful Saturday, the truck pulled up and the team began the unloading process. I quickly snapped a photo of the first case of wine being returned.

As the guys were unloading the truck, we began opening the boxes. Up to this point, we'd been looking at an inventory sheet that listed these wines by label and quantity: Merry Edwards Pinot Noir-24 bottles, Pahlmeyer Chardonnay-32 bottles. To our horror, we discovered that the wines in each case were a complete mix and match. Each of the cases had a hodge-podge of wines in no particular order. This was turning out to be a more challenging project than expected...

The corporate beverage director and I turned to one another: "We're going to need more hands..."

As the cases continued to roll in and pile up, we continued to open boxes and assign bins. It wasn't long before we were buried in the tunnel behind a wall of wine. And getting each box put away was taking longer than anticipated. With eight to ten distinct wines in a given box, it required that many trips to each bin to put them away. That is, as opposed to taking twelve bottles to one bin and just putting them away. It was severely slow going.

We worked from 8am to 10pm for seven days straight. And this was just getting the wines into their basic organization. But after all the busted fingers, paper cuts, pulled muscles and sore limbs, we eventually got there. The wines were back in their safe little home under the rooms that have hosted the celebrity elite.

Tragically, not everything that came back was a Cheval Blanc. Sure - we have our share of '59 Margaux, '90 DRC Romanee-Conti and a healthy vertical of Petrus. But we also discovered 2004 Beringer White Zinfandel, 15-year old Sauvignon Blancs and
brown-hued Chardonnays. All-in-all, we separated out around 150 cases of wines that were potentially past their prime and undrinkable. Tim and I spent an afternoon in the tunnel just popping corks and tasting through the possible candidates for saving to see what we could salvage.

"It's moments like this that I wish people could see what I do for a living," I said to him as we were spitting wine on to the tunnel floor and pouring bottle after bottle down the drain.

We salvaged a little from that day. The 1991 Ferrari Carano "Tresor" was holding up fairly well - better than I expected. A 1995 Paoletti Sangiovese was a surprise. However, it was overshadowed by the pain of discarding cases upon cases of Domaine Ott and Tempier Roses. We poured out bottles of white from our neighboring winery in Bel-Air, Moraga, that had not held up. Moscatos, Champagnes, Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs past their primes, as well as some tragically oxidized white Burgundies. It was a painful process.

But the result was a wine list we could be proud of! We continually get comments on how great the list looks and how impressed people are with it. And this is just the beginning. We haven't even more than scratched the surface of where it's going. But it's a start!

A Trio of Cult Cabs

2011-12-07T12:07:00.000-08:00

A lot of great wine rolls through the Bel-Air. Very often I don't have the chance to take any detailed tasting notes when sampling these wines. 1959 Margaux and Haut Brion, 1982 Cheval Blancgrea and 1973 DRC Montrachet are just a few of the greats that I wish I'd been able to jot down in my notebook. However, once in awhile, the opportunity comes to sit down to the end of the night and actually taste a few professionally.

On this day, we happened to have a collection of the great names in Cabernet Sauvignon from California: Colgin 'Herb Lamb' 2005, Bryant 2005 and Harlan 2001. When I was still budding as a sommelier, one of the great experiences of my life was sitting down to dinner with a friend who had opened the 1997 Colgin and 1997 Harlan for a side-by-side. While my personal taste doesn't necessarily run toward Cali Cab these days, the opportunity to taste these two mammoths side-by-side again was intriguing.

So, the Colgin 'Herb Lamb' 2005 was showing beautifully. I immediately noted red licorice on the nose which shifted to black fruits on the palate with this red cherry edge that seems to be decidedly Colgin (in my experience). Almost like a bucket of blackberries with a few Maraschino cherries thrown in for good measure. Plenty of spice and anise blended with the rich fruit that is supported by chalky tannins that somehow feel plush. I poured a taste of the Colgin to the guest who was drinking the Harlan so he could also experience the opportunity to taste them together. "I could drink that all day...", he said, before he knew what it was.

The Harlan Estate 2001 was a decidedly different animal. Much more brooding and complex. Bordeaux-like character, but distinctly Californian at the same time. The fruit shows more black/blue with amazing intensity. Perfumey on the nose with black currants, espresso, pencil shavings, gravel, fresh ground cinnamon, and some singed herbs. The complexity here is quite impressive and this wine is still very young in its evolution. It will be interesting to see where this wine is in another ten years. I would say this was my favorite of the three.

The 2005 Bryant was almost a blend of style between the Colgin and the Harlan. The fruit was ripe, but stayed lifted with this really refreshing acidity that helped the flavors of the fruit remain fresh. A little more herbal/rubber noted on the nose, but beautiful black currant and black raspberry and a plush texture. The amazing piece here was the seamless balance. One could get lost in this wine without any one thing standing out, yet there's a lot wrapped up in this package to discover if you want to dig in. And the finish here is long without feeling heavy. Very impressive.

As I said, Cabernet isn't always my first choice. I find I'm drinking them out of my cellar these days just to make room for Nebbiolos and Burgundys. If these wines were thirty bucks a bottle, I probably still wouldn't stock up on them for myself, but I'd be stupid not to put them on a wine list. Sadly, at upwards of $500 for each, it seems sad to me that most people will never experience these really well-crafted California Cabernets.

A New Chapter

2011-12-04T14:25:00.000-08:00

After five great years with Jar, and many great wines, an opportunity came along that I could not refuse. My good friend, Chris Miller from Spago, had been trying to find a home for me with Wolfgang Puck. That position finally came along with the re-opening of the legendary Hotel Bel-Air. The new restaurant, known as Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, and hotel are being manned by yours truly. It's an incredible shift of gears from the comfy 80-seat Jar to a 103-room hotel with a fine dining restaurant, but a great experience.

The Hotel Bel-Air is an icon. It's been around since the 1940's and has been the temporary home of a vast number of celebrities. Marilyn Monroe's last photo shoot was at the pool. Nancy Reagan has been a regular for lunch for years. As you can imagine, the famous feet that have tread here are pretty vast.

I look forward to sharing some of the rewarding and challenging aspects of running this iconic property with you over the coming months or years.

A Birthday Pub Crawl in Napa/Sonoma

2011-10-21T11:35:00.000-07:00

Even though it's been two months since all of this went down, I feel compelled to share this experience with you because it is often an overlooked aspect to wine country vacations.

Kara and I took a trek up to Napa and Sonoma for my birthday. Working in wine, and it being a celebration, I insisted that we keep the winery visits to a bare minimum. What did I want to do then?! Well, visit breweries, of course! We were fortunate enough to be staying in the guest house of our new friend Fritz, who owns Arietta winery. It was a beautiful little house right in downtown St. Helena.

Our first stop was in Healdsburg at Bear Republic. We dropped in for lunch and to drink through the line-up with some lunch. Their food in not particularly impressive and they miss the mark in many ways, but the beer is really good. In particular, the Racer X, which is their Double IPA was awesome. Unfortunately, they don't bottle it and make a limited amount of kegs. Overall, the beer was indicative of style and I would rate it highly for overall quality.

The real standout in this visit was a surprise. The brewery offered a couple of vintage bottles from 2002, only to be consumed on premise. I immediately ordered a bottle of the 2002 'Olde Scoutter's Barleywine'. It arrived with no label, was decanted for sediment and served in snifters. I thought it was drinking great. I would never really have thought to hold a barleywine for nearly ten years, but I would've bought a case to take home for after-dinner consumption, if they would have only allowed you to buy it.

We decided to relax at the guest house on that evening. A quick trip to Dean & DeLuca for some meats and cheeses (and some Pliny the Elder, which they have in great supply) brought us to the backyard. I also opened a slightly oxidized bottle of 1997 Chateau d'Yquem to enjoy. The color seemed a little dark for its age, but it still tasted like Yquem: honeyed apricots, citrus, orange marmalade and chamomille tea. Hard not to like even from a slightly-off bottle. I should also mention that the 1994 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon was drinking beautifully and in its peak drinking.

For my actual birthday, after a hike with the dogs (who had tagged along for this trip), we drove over to Lagunitas. If this place were down the street, I'd be there all the time. It has a very Key West-feel with a huge patio and open bar. We tasted through the lineup here and I still really love their IPA and PILS. They're staples at my house, when I have the opportunity to get them.

And then my crowning moment of glory and real reason for the trip: Russian River Brewing Company. We took our seats at the bar and embarked on one of my favorite journeys - the Board at RRBC. Generally, it includes around 20 beers that are currently being poured on tap. My favorite surprise today was the 'Sound Czech Pilsner', which I brought home in a growler. They only brew this once a year in honor of one of their favorite bands. Pretty cool stuff! Like a true tourist, I left with a t-shirt, glasses, and growlers. Their pizza is pretty damned good, too.

We quickly dropped into our favorite little haunt in downtown Calistoga (that I can never remember the name of...) for a Bloody Mary or two. They really make one of the best Marys. I'm fairly certain they add some pepperoncini juice to the mix and use a hot sauce other than Tabasco. I'd highly recommend it, except that I can't even tell you the name of the place...

We did power through a few wineries' wines while we were there, of course. Pappapietro-Perry in the Russian River Valley was a nice surprise. I have traditionally liked their wines and they're very nice people. Any of the Pinot Noirs or Zinfandels are worth trying. In addition, we had some wines from Tor in Tor's living room. These are really nice California Cabernets, but perhaps a little pricey. And, of course, we tasted through verticals of Arietta wines. I've developed a new love for Arietta on this trip, having not had it for a number of years. They are nice wines, fairly priced, and their white wine called "On the White Keys" is really delicious.

It was decidedly one of our best trips to wine country ever. For the first time, Kara and I emphasized relaxing instead of working. I think I finally caught a glimpse of why the rest of the world comes to Napa and Sonoma. It's kind of nice. I'll have to make the effort again in the future.

Dom Perignon 2002

2011-10-19T11:16:00.001-07:00

I've been waiting for this moment for a while now. The opportunity to dive into the 2002 Moet & Chandon 'Dom Perignon' has finally arrived. Sure - it's an obvious choice and sommeliers are not supposed to be obvious, but this is one of my guilty pleasures. To be quite frank, I don't feel bad about liking Dom Perignon.

I remember my first taste of Dom. It was 1990 and my step-sister had just been born. We were in the hospital room and my dad busted out this bottle. (I couldn't tell you what vintage - heck, I didn't even know what a vintage was back then...) He poured for everyone, including me, into one of those cheesy Dixie cups and we all toasted. I remember, even then, thinking it tasted chalky and like balloons. How does a twelve-year old describe minerality anyway?

To this day, I often choose Dom over the other mainstream prestige cuvees in blind tastings. There's something about the fine bubbles, crisp acidity, minerality and well-integrated yeast flavors that really speaks to me. I think they really nail the balance and the elegance in a premium-level Champagne.

On to the 2002! Well, what do you eat with Dom Perignon?! The answer is - ANYTHING!

In our continuing late night saga to gain fifty pounds (not really...), we dined on a smorgasboard of leftovers at 2am. The menu included a homemade Lasagna and Beef Stroganoff. Certainly not the first dishes you'd think to pair with Champagne, but the wine showed well, continuing my belief in Champagne's inherent versatility with food. The 2002 vintage is very floral aromatically, showing white flowers, honeysuckle, melba toast and chalky minerality. On the palate, the wine is crisp and lively, shows very dry, and integrates some more honeyed pear flavors with fresh bread. I've always liked this undescribable earthy layer to Dom thay I was really enjoying tonight with the mushrooms in the Stroganoff.

I once wrote in our "Sommelier Selection" page for Jar that it seems silly to recommend Dom Perignon on a list of quick picks because we all know it's good. I sort of feel the same way here. However, sometimes I just have to shout the obvious from the mountaintop. Here's to hoping you get to enjoy a glass of this delicious 2002 Dom Perignon as well.

Brokenwood Semillon 2010

2011-08-23T12:49:00.000-07:00

Wow! What a lunch at home... A lazy Sunday at home prompted a "clean-out-the-fridge" meal that always seems to turn out surprisingly well. Kara was marvelling as we walked the dogs that some of our spontaneous lunches are better than meals we get out. I have to say, I think I may have even impressed myself.

As an appetizer, I prepared a Jar recipe that I've never tried to execute at home: the Lump Crab and Melon Salad in a Jalapeno Vinaigrette. Working with the materials I had, I used a red watermelon and an "orange flesh" melon, which I had never tried before. Sadly, the lump crab was from a container and not fresh, but tossed in the vinaigrette and treated to some torn mint leaves and red onion, I didn't mind at all. This is my favorite summer salad this year. I totally dig a Kabinett Riesling with this usually, but today Kara and I just shared a Kern River "Just Outstanding" IPA, which worked fine. Simcoe hops add an almost sweet citrus and citrus pith that has savory bitterness on the finish. I just discovered this bottling and, as far as I'm concerned, the name is not an exaggeration.

As a main course, I prepared a simple lemon beurre blanc with some crushed garlic cloves and crushed red pepper. Tossing in some cooked store-bought shrimp, I served this "scampi" over a homemade Sage-infused rice and garnished it with a little fresh parsley. I went a little heavy on the lemon in the sauce since I knew I was going to open the Brokenwood Semillon 2010 from Hunter Valley in Australia. The pairing was perfect! The wine, which has a core of very crisp lemon and minerality, matched the acidity in the sauce and drew out the sandier pear flavors in the wine, without altering its character. Both the dish and the wine were continuously refreshing each other and I think we both ate more than we intended to. Kara commented that each bite of the rice was like an burst of lemon and butter on the palate. Now - why has no one made a chewing gum like this...?

I am continually finding myself more drawn to these Australian whites. At a meager 12% alcohol, and with such clean, simple flavors, this Brokenwood Semillon is a sommelier's dream! I am suddenly thinking of all the things I want to try it with. Whoops - better go buy some more first, I guess...

Cooking Class at Jar: August, 2011

2011-08-21T16:29:00.001-07:00

For our August cooking class, we had a very intimate group. The menu included her simple (but wonderful) Heirloom Tomato Salad as a starter. For the entree, she prepared her Braised Ox Tail along with Long-Cooked Kale. Our pastry chef prepared a Peach Cobbler for dessert. Despite not being an entirely "summer-y" menu, I would not be upset to be eating any of these things for lunch this month.

I poured the Ca' del Roro Prosecco, Brut NV as an aperitif. As always, I emphasized how wonderful Prosecco can be as an easy quaffer, a start to dinner, or the only way to begin drinking at 11am when class begins. A wonderful palate primer, it features very clean green apple and hay flavors, with crisp lemon and also an intersting honeyed note as well. Very classic, not particularly sweet or overly fruity, it's a loverly and inexpensive little sparkler.

To match the Heirloom Tomato Salad, I leaned on my new favorite summer wine: the Schloss Gobelsburg 'Gobelsburger', Gruner Veltliner 2010. We're pouring this by the glass at Jar at the moment. Produced from vines under the age of twenty years in the Kamptal region of Austria. The fruit and acidity in this wine, as well as the savory minerality, make this imminently easy to drink, despite its youth. Classic "green" flavors that fit the radish/asparagus profile with the spicy white pepper on the finish. Lots of citrus and even a peachy edge. Completely food-friendly and I'm likely to drink my case of this before the end of September.

The Ox Tail is probably Suzanne's favorite dish on the menu, so I pulled one of my favorites from the list for the class: the Brovia Barolo 2005. I've written about this before, but I will happily express how wonderful and classic this wine is again. The tar and rose aromas with the solid core of both ripe and dried cherry is mesmerizing. Elegantly spiced, to match the spices in Suze's recipe, and with firm tannin that is drinkable on its own, but serves the fattiness of the ox tail as well. I liked the regional match of the cippolini onions with Italian wine as well.

Another great morning in the Jar kitchen with both new and old friends!

Liquid Farm

2011-08-03T11:39:00.000-07:00

I just have to tell you about this wine! I generally only drink the same bottle once a year - sometimes twice. I've drunk this three times already this month! Although, I hazard to put the word out because they only made two barrels of it (about fifty cases...). I think it bears some talking about, though.

Liquid Farm is a brand new project in the Santa Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County. Known for its particularly cool climate, Pinot Noirs from this AVA have been flying off the shelves for a number of years now due to a little film called "Sideways". While a winemaker's style can sometimes get in the way of expressing what this climate has to offer (in cases such as Sea Smoke), there are a few producers who are working to showcase what can be accomplished in this area from the Old World perspective. Some of those producers are dabbling in Chardonnay, due to its classic roots in Burgundy and notoriety for expressing terroir and minerality.

With the winemaking team from Dragonette Cellars to assist, Liquid Farm has set forth their goal of showcasing California Chardonnay in its best light. Their focus is on typicity of the grape, minerality, food-friendly acidity, balance, and overall drinkability. Their efforts to avoid manipulating the wine really shine through: no acidification, new oak or heavy alcohols. This is Chardonnay in its most natural light.

The Liquid Farm 'White Hill' Chardonnay 2009 succeeds at every level of what they set forth to accomplish. Beautiful flavors of Golden Delicious apple and Anjou pear, a soft cinnamon note, quince, a touch of lemon sorbet - and stoney minerality like water rushing over rocks. The acidity makes this wine completely refreshing and, in my experience so far, completely food-friendly. I've enjoyed it with Dim Sum, where it was truly amazing (especially with curried noodles), and also Truffled Chicken Cordon Bleu. Both occasions were a real treat.

In addition to the two barrels of 'White Hill', they have also produced two barrels of another Chardonnay called 'Golden Slope', which I have not yet had the opportunity to taste, but will definitely seek out. One wonders how such a large effort that yields such a small, albeit amazing, result is worth the time and energy involved. All I can do is applaud their passion and dedication. And, of course, drink their wine.

It's a real treat, as a sommelier, to find producers who are undertaking the challenge of introducing the world market to a new style. I'm pleased to say we have been pouring The Paring Chardonnay 2009 by the glass at Jar for some time now, another crisp Chardonnay without oak influence from Santa Rita Hills. I hope that this is a trend that will continue in the years to come. From what I've seen, people are responding in a positive way to these changes, although they may not be able to put their finger on how these Chardonnays are different from the ones they normally drink. But when they order a second glass, it tells me that Chardonnay drinkers are open to the change.

Bolognese and Italian Wines

2011-08-01T12:31:00.000-07:00

I had to cover a Sunday evening at Jar, which is normally our day off. Kara decided she was going to make dinner for me. Bolognese Sauce to be precise. My thoughts immediately turned to Barolo and I could not wait for service to be over. These are two of my favorite things in the world! To have them on the same table at the same time is sheer heaven for me.

As I entered the house, the smell was intoxicating. I quickly raced up the stairs to the computer, practically dropping my suit on the floor as I went. Scrolling frantically through the Piedmont section, I was reeling with excitment. Kara already had the water boiling for the pasta as the sauce was getting happier by the minute. I agonized over what to open, as I always do. Some wines were locked up in cold storage offsite. Some were completely too young. I pored over the wines again and again, looking for just the perfect one. Before I knew it, Kara had the food plated and there was no more time for selecting, much less decanting. ARGH!

I sighed and grabbed the Guido Porro Barolo 2004 from the "guest cellar" since it would be the closest, fastest, and best instantly ready wine I had on hand. (I need to get more efficient in my decision-making process when it comes to selecting wine at home...) Not to say that this is not a good wine, by any means. It's a terrific, inexpensive and servicable Barolo. It shows perfect typicity and manageable tannin levels. I must admit it was perfect with the sauce, which was heavenly. The florality was expressive on the nose and the structure was still felt on the palate, even with the amount of bacon Kara included in the dish. She knows me so well...

I had one of those crazy sommelier moments about halfway through the meal and decided to open another wine. Morbid curiousity. Nothing was going to be the equal of the Barolo! But I had to satisfy the madness. I popped the cork on the Terre di Balbia 'Balbium' 2009, a new wine we're pouring by the glass at Jar that I've got a crush on at the moment. Up to now, I haven't really played with it in terms of pairing so it seemed like as good a time as any. The wine is made in Calabria by the owners of Venica y Venica (a well-known white producer in the North) from 100% Magliocco. Stylistically, it reminds me of a cross between Barbera and Syrah. It expresses peppery and spicy flavors over the fruit of a rustic Italian quaffer, but backed by mild tannin and surprising acidity. It's a total wine geek wine and people have just been loving it.

As a pairing for this dish, however, it fell flat. Lacking the structure for all the delicious fats, it became a wishy-washy, non-descript, fruity blob. More tannin please! I think it may have shown better with a marinara or arrabiatta sauce. I will be interested to try this experiment on another day.

Returning to the Barolo, I relaxed into my happy place. Why did I ever leave you, my darling...? I may need to start working Sundays more often.

Cooking Class at Jar: July, 2011

2011-07-30T12:12:00.000-07:00

Another wonderful cooking class at Jar! As much as I am a night owl and would prefer to not have to get suited up before noon, I always get such joy out of guiding an eager group of palates through lunch in Jar's kitchen. Introducing people to new food and wine combinations is what this job is all about!

As the guests filed into the kitchen on this particular Saturday in July, I started them out with the Terres Secretes 'Blanc de Noir' Cremant de Bourgogne NV. A 100% Pinot Noir sparkler from Burgundy, it is a perfect summer wine: clean, aromatic, with crisp acidity and interesting, but unintrusive flavors. At under $20 a bottle retail, I'd happily serve it to anyone in lieu of Champagne and challenge them not to enjoy it. I must be right; all of the Champagne flutes were empty by the time the first course had arrived...

Suzanne demonstrated how to prepare her White Peach and Celery Salad, which also features Parmesan Reggiano and Marcona Almonds. I always tell the class that salads are challenging and often surprising to pair to. This was no exception. The evening prior, I lined up about eight different styles of wine and would never have believed that the Londer Dry Gewurztraminer 2008 from Anderson Valley would have been my favorite. While Gewurztraminer has a reputation for being overblown and super-intense, this expression is still floral and fruity on the nose as one would expect, but much leaner and crisper on the palate. In fact, almost chalky, it reminds me of the Polar Cups (lemon slushies) I used to get when I was a kid after a day at the beach. I'm still surprised at how much I liked this match.

For the entree, Suzanne prepared the Braised Ribs she served at the Tablas Creek wine dinner. Offering me an opportunity to break free from the New World, I went directly to the Rhone and provided a Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 2007. The ripeness of the 2007 Rhone vintage supported the sweetness of the sauce. Also, Cayron's wines have a tendency to be more meaty and, particularly in this bottling, offers a significant note of charred bell pepper that I love. People were "wow"-ed by this wine geek-y wine.

Another successful day of pairings and discovery. I continue to learn something new everyday about the chemistry of food and wine. I must take this opportunity to express how lucky I feel to have the opportunity to dabble in this fascinating world. And to share it, of course, with those who have the patience to read about it. Cheers!

What Wine Do You Serve with Eddie Izzard?

2011-07-28T12:58:00.000-07:00

No! I did NOT have dinner with Eddie Izzard... While that would be a dream come true, I CAN say that I enjoyed some wonderful wines while watching him perform at the Hollywood Bowl recently. Joining us in a Garden Box were our good friends Daniel and Monica.

Kara and I couldn't wait for our notoriously late guests who took the shuttle, so we broke out a delicious 2010 Rose of Pinot Noir by Soliste in Sonoma to go with our selection of cheeses. This is my summer wine! Raspberry, underripe strawberry, crisp and delicious. What more can you ask for from a rose? Claude, the French owner of Soliste, models the wine after Domaine Tempier in Bandol.

When Monica and Daniel arrived, we broke into a bottle of Iron Horse sparkling that she provided. The show was just beginnning so I never did get to see which bottling it was. It was a perfect Bowl wine as the sun was going down and we enjoyed the last of the heat of the day. This is a really wonderful sparkling wine house and doesn't fall into the trap of overripening the fruit, in my opinion. It satisfies my craving for Champagne, rather than leaving me disappointed as many domestic houses can.

As the cool breeze of evening was washing over the Bowl, I turned to red wine in the form of a Leon Barral Faugeres 2007. It was totally hitting the spot with the Delice de Bourgogne cheese. The pepper, earth spice and violets were singing over the dark fruits. I love this wine! Not overly intellectual, but completely satisfying for complexity, fruitiness and drinkability.

As the show was nearing its completion, we opened but did not finish a Pahlmeyer Pinot Noir that Monica brought. I do sometimes like Pahlmeyer, but this Pinot was everything I hate about the California expression and production of it. Fat black fruits, cola and spice, gooey on the palate. Not for me. But Kara, who usually doesn't like California Pinot, was digging it.

The show was a blast! We got last minute tickets and somehow managed to get great seats at that. It's also fun for me to see what people are drinking at the Bowl. Dom Perignon, Nickel & Nickel, schlock from Trader Joe's, etc. It's an experience on a level all it's own. Not too mention milling around with the likes of Eric Idle, Alannis Morisette, Florence Henderson and many others. And, of course, Eddie Izzard was a riot. He ran from the stage to the back of the Bowl at the beginning of the show - an impressive feat in itself. Then, to do stand-up!

Great job, Eddie! You rock!

Tablas Creek Wine Dinner

2011-07-26T12:35:00.000-07:00

In our continuing series of wine dinners being held at Jar, we offered the wines of Tablas Creek for our second event. An intimate experience yet again with some of the same faces in attendance. Excitement levels were high, especially for me since I had tasted all the food and wines already and knew how amazing the line-up was going to be.

As guests arrived, I was happy to pour a glass of the Patelin de Tablas Blanc 2010 as an aperitif. This is a brand new wine from the winery, designed for "By the Glass" programs in restaurants. The base varietal is Grenache Blanc on this crisp white that shows no oak and is an amazing food wine. This is decidedly my new favorite wine from Tablas Creek. We served Shanghai Noodles with Masago and Calamari to pair with the wine and the pairing was probably my favorite of the dinner. The refreshing acidity cleansed the palate of the heavier noodles and sauce, making me want more.

The first formal course was Softshell Crab with Fava Bean Salad. I poured both flagship whites: Cotes de Tablas Blanc 2009 and Esprit de Beaucastel 2008. The Cotes is based in Viognier, offering a more stone fruit-based flavor profile with the typical florality. As a pairing, it was okay, but reminded me of having fried chicken with cling peaches. The Esprit, on the other hand, was seamless on its own, but even better with the dish. The group agreed with me that the Esprit was the better fit and a great one at that!

Suzanne's delicious Braised Ribs came next, effusing aromas of cinnamon and star anise as the dishes hit the table. To match, the red counterparts were poured: the Cotes de Tablas 2009 and the Esprit de Beaucastel 2008. The red Cotes is Syrah-based and, while good, didn't seem to have enough ripe, juicy fruit components to really stand up to the slightly sweet sauce. And most of the interesting earthen/Syrah components were lost with the dish. The Esprit was banging! The meatiness inherent in its Mourvedre and the plush fruitiness of the Grenache were incredible matches and blended with the dish perfectly. Also, the spice of the oak worked well with the spices in the sauce. This was also a truly amazing pairing and I heartily recommend this style of food with the Esprit 2008.

Suzanne wanted to offer a Fig Salad with Gorgonzola, Prosciutto and Balsamic Reduction. Sadly, there was no real great match in the Tablas line-up for this dish, save the SacreRouge dessert wine which we were pouring for dessert. As a "least of all evils" pairing, I offered the Rose 2010, explaining to the group that sometimes you just have to bite the bullet when specific parameters are in place. I must admit that both the food and wine were both delicious individually, but not particularly suited for each other. Although, the plain prosciutto and the wine were nice together.

For dessert, Sandra prepared a Bread Pudding with a Cherry Port Compote. Tablas Creek was kind enough to provide us some of their SacreRouge from the winery. A 100% Mourvedre made in the style of a Vin de Paille (drying the grapes on straw mats to concentrate the sugars), it sports a lower alcohol than a Port, but offers much the same flavor profile. An interesting wine, it shows a good deal of savory components rather than just goopy fruit and also significant acidity. I was surprised how many people went in for seconds on the dessert wine.

The more I taste and use the wines of Tablas Creek, the more I realize what an amazing project it is. And furthermore, I would consider them a leader in the Renaissance of Paso Robles. The wines express balance and minerality in what would be considered a significantly warm region. The West side of Paso Robles has more to offer than many realize.

Randall Graham and Bonny Doon

2011-06-23T13:09:00.001-07:00

I was very fortunate this past week to have the opportunity to spend some time with Randall Graham, the genius and mad scientist, if you will, behind Bonny Doon winery. Considered the original "Rhone Ranger" when he began Bonny Doon back in 1983, he has consistently been pushing the envelope over the years by poking holes in the staunch and pompous bubble around wine, but making profound product at the same time. His former tasting room in Paso Robles was a clear cut example, looking more like a ride in Fantasyland than a professional winery. But there is no arguing the quality of what's in the bottle; his line-up on this particular afternoon proves that.

In speaking with Randall, I was taken with how humble he still is after all this time. With nearly thirty years in the bag, he still refers to Bonny Doon as "a work in progress". He is trying to shrink his production, which is currently around 35,000, to about 25,000. In fact, he tells me that he would make only ONE case of wine if he could. If it were the most brilliant wine in the world, I assume. I hazard to think of what it might cost or what my allocation would be. A .187 ml for $3000? Sign me up!

On a side note, his video "Vive le Screwcap" is on You Tube. If you have about ten minutes, you should give it a watch. Pretty entertaining and informative if you need a basic education in corkiness and screwcaps. Here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSlmjxQkJRE

On to the wines we tasted:

One of my personal favorites of the flight was the very first wine he poured: "Riesling to Live" 2006. It's the perfect sommelier wine! A Method Champenois sparkler that is varietal Riesling. Bone-dry and perfect as an aperitif or just a fun summer wine. It showed the typical petrol notes of Riesling on the nose, with lime, green apple, crisp acidity and minerality rarely seen in the New World. White peach on the palate as well. I can't wait to get this in to Jar so I can have a full glass or two! A special thanks to Randall for making this available. Heretofore, it has not been available outside of the winery and mailing list.

His flight of white wines was equally as impressive. The Vinho Grinho 2009 is a blend of Loureiro and Albarino. You've got to love his commitment to using grapes no one has ever heard of! And the wine is killer! Florality and a perfumey nose of peaches, oranges, and citrus. The Albarino really comes through. On the palate, it feels round, but the acidity takes over and keeps it feeling light, bringing you back for more. Moving on to the "Vin Gris de Cigare" 2010, his rose, I was pleasantly surprised to find it incredibly affordable for the quality. A blend of Grenache, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, it shows a little of that bubble gum character that I often don't like in domestic rose, but also balanced with strawberry and raspberry, white flowers and a quaffable style. The flavors cling to the palate. Nice value! Lastly, we tasted the "Le Cigare Volant Blanc" 2008, which I was also very taken with. A blend of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, it strikes me as almost reminiscent of a Chablis-like nose in its minerality. Also, beeswax, quince, flowers and a chalkiness on the palate that also includes more citrus and stonefruit characteristics. The Old World style of this is brilliant. I'm even noting a little pineapple on the finish that's fun. We're likely to be pouring this by the glass at Jar next month.

As move into reds, Randall pours me his 2007 Dolcetto under the Ca' del Solo label. Dolcetto?! I love this guy! Who's growing Dolcetto in California?! And it tastes like Italian Dolcetto! Why am I using all exclamation points?! BECAUSE I'M EXCITED!!! Actually, this is a great representation of the varietal. Candied cherries and purple flowers. Completely classic. It's hard to give you a tasting note because I never really find Dolcetto that complex or interesting, and Randall's is no exception, but its similarity to its Italian counterparts is what's so impressive. The 2008 Syrah "Le Pousseur" is nice as well. Classic Syrah, it shows black pepper notes, blueberry, grilled meats, soft florality, singed herbs and a refreshingly moderate body that is not tiring. Another good value drinking wine.

I believe it was about this point in the tasting when I ask Randall if it's a "Fruit Day" on the lunar calendar because everything is just tasting brilliant. He practices biodynamics and if anyone's wines should be affected by the lunar calendar, I would expect them to be his. If you have no idea what I'm talking about - I'll do a write up on it someday. It's sort of hokey and sort of fascinating. You'll either disregard it immediately or begin methodically looking for the truth in it, as I did.

Bonny Doon's flagship wine is "Le Cigare Volant". We tasted the 2007 today. It contains a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. I liked it, but it was not my favorite of the flight. However, I must make a disclaimer that I am not always the biggest fan of Rhone blends such as this. I love them with the right foods, but they are not always my first choice for casual drinking. The wine was spot on, though: Based in red fruit flavors, and showing like a riper Chateauneuf, the body is round, offering peppered meats and minerality. Beautifully balanced, as a Chateauneuf blend is meant to be. A terrific representation of its model. Lastly, I absolutely adored the "Bien Nacido" Syrah 2007. Like a Cote-Rotie, it was rife with savory flavors: bacon fat, pepper, meat, herbs and more. The black/blue fruit is only a framework for all this other cool stuff, which continues long into the finish. This is the style of Syrah I wish more people could nail in California. But when you're getting from one of the coolest growing sites in the state, I guess it's a little easier to emphasize those characteristics.

I am a much bigger fan of these wines today than I was when I visited their tasting room nearly ten years ago. Of course, my palate has completely changed and, possibly, so has the quality of the wines. As Randall said, they are a "work in progress". I am incredibly happy to have finally met the man and been able to pick his brain. I highly recommend doing so if you have the chance at a tasting or event some time in the future. The wines are top notch!

Lewis Cellars Wine Dinner at Jar

2011-06-23T12:32:00.000-07:00

We're very excited at Jar to be starting up a new series of wine dinners. Occurring the third Tuesday of every month, they will feature new dishes created by Suzanne and Preech, as well as themed wine pairings. The setting offers intimacy with a table set for a mere fourteen people in the side dining room. The beverage selections are, of course, provided by yours truly.

For our inaugural dinner, Suzanne and I offered a menu showcasing some of the wines from Lewis Cellars. While known for their extracted and monstrously endowed reds, I took the opportunity to show as many of their whites with Suzanne's menu. Four courses were prepared following a light amuse.

As guests arrived, we poured the Terres Secretes 'Blanc de Noirs' Brut NV Cremant de Bourgogne. This is a terrific, crisp sparkler that offers wonderful value for the money. Red fruit, apple and minerality with a touch of sweetness noticable on the palate. This wine also carried over as the pairing for Suzanne's Roasted Tomato Soup with Smoked Mozzarella, which served as the Amuse Bouche for the evening.

The first formal course was a Dungeness Crab Salad with Watermelon and Sugar Kiss Melon. A jalapeno-lime vinaigrette and some mint made me think of Sauvignon Blanc, which thankfully, Lewis just began making last year. The Lewis Napa Sauvignon Blanc 2009 was very pretty, offering tropicl notes, some percievable oak tones, citrus flavors and a well-done California-style SB. I much prefer this bottling to their Reserve which sees more oak and seems more like Chardonnay than SB.

I played around a bit with the second course pairings. Suzanne serves Cod and Cod Cheeks with Umbrian Lentils. I desperately wanted to show the Lewis 'Vin Gris of Syrah' Rose 2010, of which there are only 2 barrels made. But also, I wanted an appropriate pairing for the dish which might be better found in their 2008 Napa Chardonnay. So - we poured both and had a side-by-side. I explained to the group that I agonize over these things down to the last minute. The Chardonnay seemed to be the favorite, but with the summer weather finally beginning to show in Los Angeles, it's always a good opportunity to remind people that it's rose season again.

For the third and final savory course, Suzanne and Preech grilled a massive Dry-Aged Ribeye and served it with some Arugula Salad and Jar's famous French Fries. Finally, I got to break out the wines Lewis is known for: the 2008 'Alec's Blend' and the 2008 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting these wines side-by-side really exemplified the style: Rich, lush, spicy and plushly textured. The Cabernet had an amazing roundness and softness that I can't recall from their wines. While massively endowed, it caresses the palate at the same time. The Alec's, a blend of mostly Syrah with Merlot and some Cabernet, showed soe of the typical Syrah bacon, pepper and florality, but was much more fruit-focused and served as a good contrast to the Cabernet.

Dinner was wrapped up with coffees and an amazing Peach Pie a la Mode from Pastry Chef Sandra Bustamante who continues to amaze me with her incredible execution of classic desserts. I had to take one of these amazing pies home to enjoy that evening. It was pretty spectacular.

It's amazing to see the reponse from people who are experiencing Lewis wines for the first time. Many of these guests were Jar fans, but weren't familiar with the winery. The hedonism and pure abandon one can experience when drinking these wines is wonderful. They're not what I would necessarily call intellectual wines, but they are wildly delicious and balanced for wines of such size. Everyone at the table seemed to respond to that aspect as they sipped down the last of all the wine in the decanters.

I'm very much looking forward to the upcoming series of these events. I've got some interesting candidates in the queue for the coming months. In addition, we are looking at regional themes, varietal focus, and maybe even a beer dinner (I'm keeping my fingers crossed for Russian River Brewery...) In any case, it's going to be a lot of fun to introduce these beverages to Jar's cuisine in this format. I hope you can find a date to join us to experience it firsthand.

Schiavenza Reserva Barolo 1999

2011-06-08T12:53:00.000-07:00

I've been hoarding this bottle. I'm sure you've been a victim of this particular syndrome as well. You might have a great experience at a wine dinner or tasting room and then covet the only bottle you purchased of some wine. Keeping it as a relic of the experience. Never wanting to open it. Saving it for some special occasion, but no occasion is really perfect or good enough. Sure - you've probably got a few in the cellar right now.

When I first came to work at Jar, we had this pretty little Barolo on the list. I took one to a dinner with some colleagues and we were all singing its praises. Particularly with the roulade of rabbit a number of us were eating. I've been looking for the right opportunity to open the wine again, but never thought I had just the right dish on the table. So, getting frustrated with myself and deciding that I really just want to drink the damn wine, I grabbed dinner from Jar and set out to re-experience this little gem.

Strangely enough, a lot of people think of Barolo for Jar's cuisine, although I never really think of it myself. The food is fairly rich and I always suspect the more elegant wines (despite the heavy tannin) will get overshadowed by some of the sweeter and more robust elements of the dishes. Classically, Barolo should go well with richer and more rustic dishes. I don't know - I must just have a block I need to clear up. And so...

The Schiavenza 'Reserva' Barolo 1999: Bricking at the rim, as one would expect, more from the varietal than its age. The core is darker than you might expect for classic Barolo. On the nose, immediate cherry cough syrup notes with perfumey florality. Riper on the nose than I might normally like. On the palate, the tannins are fine and soft. Atypical of a Barolo this young. The fruit is ripe and surprisingly pronounced with the soft tannin seeming to leave it a little flabby. I didn't remember it being this soft...

Nursing some slight disappointment with this showing, we sat down to the braised meat and suddenly the clouds parted. The richness of the sauce (which includes some sugar from the sherry it's braised in) cuts the ripeness of the wine and provides the austerity I was missing. Miraculously, the earth and florality volume go up a few notches and the ripeness comes into balance. Could it be? Have I been overlooking this brilliant pairing for so long?!!! Ripe enough and plenty drinkable without the food, but becoming more classic and balanced with the meat?! I'M IN LOVE AGAIN!

Someone asked me yesterday about my last amazing wine experience. I had to share this one since it was fresh in my head. He chided me for being a "restaurant guy" and having to judge my wine with food. Of course I do! Personally, that's when I drink the majority of my wine - when I'm eating. Not even considering this interaction can be detrimental to your experience of the wine! I've known people who buy expensive wines and simply won't eat while they're drinking them because they don't like to change the wine itself. I congratulate any wine novice for making this decision. It's all about determining what works for you!

St. Lucia

2011-05-27T11:41:00.000-07:00

I have a tendency to spend all of my vacations in wine regions. Or at least tying the vacation into wine somehow. Even my honeymoon was spent in Tuscany with a few winey visits thrown into the mix. After nearly being together for nearly thirteen years, Kara finally put her foot down and insisted on a tropical vacation where I couldn't focus on wine. St. Lucia - here we come!

What the hell do I have to write about in regards to St. Lucia...?

Believe it or not, the island has some domestic beverages that are quite good. They don't get as much imported liquor and wine as you might think. Common names such as Grey Goose and Ketel One are absent from bars and grocery stores. I asked for a Belvedere martini and the bartender asked what was in it... There are less than ten beers on the island, about four of which are made there.

Here are a few of my new beverage experiences in the Carribean:

Piton is what seems to be the most popular domestic beer on the island. It's one of three lagers available, challenged by Caribe (another Carribean beer) and Heineken. I drank more than my fair share of this on the trip. It was slightly better than your average inexpensive lager, with a pronounced cheap hoppy flavor. Kara and I comiserated that it really just tasted like cheap college keg beer. But very quaffable and at those daily temperatures, I was glad to have a glass or two.

Venturing out to the local markets, I discovered the rest of the beers available on the island. Rooster was a dark, malty ale that tasted like an adult chocolate malt. Super light on hops and barely noticable. Sort of like a less good version of Chimay Blue. It was tough to get through a full bottle, but not bad. I paired it with some local banana chips. The chips were dry and not sweetened so it actually made an interesting contrast and complement to the beer. In the photo, you'll also find the cat Kara adopted: Lucy.

At the store, I also found a Ginger Wine from Jamaica. I'd never heard of Ginger Wine so I picked one up to give it a try. On the nose, it smelled like a Coke when the ice has melted and it's gotten watered down. Sweet on the palate and exceptionally spicy from ginger, it also shows some oxidative notes on the finish that remind me of Oloroso sherry. I couldn't drink more than a few sips of this so I toured it around the resort allowing other guests to try it. One of the locals recommended adding a little soda water to it as a serving option which I thought would be an interesting way to cut the sweetness, but I'd moved back on to beer and didn't try it.

Of course, as one might expect, they distill a number of different styles of rum that are made on the island. I'd intended to make my way over to the facility during the stay, but spent more time scuba diving than I expected. I did, however, grab a few bottles from the store to taste upon returning home. If they are anything to speak of, I will certainly post about them, though I expect they will be fairly standard.

Enjoying wine was a tremendous challenge as there isn't much of note and particularly little from Europe. Argentina and Chile have a fairly strong presence in the market with a little from California, New Zealand and a smattering of French and Italian. We managed to try a couple of wines with dinners: an Orvieto and 'Parallel 45' Cote du Rhone, which is commonly seen here in the States. I also found a bottle of Trimbach Riesling 2007 which we had at one of their nicer French restaurants. It was actually pretty good: lots of lime and green apple, chalk, petrol and white flowers. Very crisp acidity and hardly any residual sugar. This was killer with the appetizers and with the breaded pork entree we ordered. I even had some with the Filet Mignon (because I certainly wasn't drinking the Beringer Stone Cellars Cab they had by the glass).

This was just amazing to see...

All in all, a great time. As soon as we walked back in the door, Kara asked me what I was longing for from home. "A great bottle of wine", I replied. So, as we stumbled in at 2:30 am (which was 5:30 to us coming from the east coast), we popped a bottle of Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc Champagne and welcomed ourselves back to California, great sushi, and world class wines. It's always good to come home!

Arnaldo Caprai '25 Ani' Sagrantino di Montefalco 2001

2011-05-27T11:00:00.000-07:00

Another casual dinner at home on our days off. As Kara plowed through an episode of America's Next Top model, I was plowing through some Marc Bredif Vouvray 2004. I've been holding on to this bottle since its release, curious about its age-ability. It's held up surprisingly well. Still very focused with honeyed notes of Golden Delicious apple, citrus, quince and very minor amounts of that wet-wooly Chenin tone. This is a user-friendly Vouvray that's built for the masses, showing less minerality and more obvious fruit character. Probably still has a few more years in it, too. And it was a fine match for my truffle cheese.

For dinner, I opened an Arnaldo-Caprai '25 Ani' Sagrantino di Montefalco 2001. Marco Caprai is akin to the Robert Mondavi of Sagrantino in Umbria. His mission was to make this relatively unknown grape into a world-class wine. He began his mission back in the 1970's and seems to have succeeded, gaining popularity for his many wines and turning his facility into a full-scale and massive operation. In 1991, he helped in earning Sagrantino di Montefalco a DOCG status and truly securing its place in the world market. He offers two bottlings of Sagrantino (three, if you count the Passito), the best of which is the 25 Ani, made from the best lots.

Sagrantino, if you've never had it, is a beast. It's simply one of the most tannic wines you'll ever have, but also balanced by dark, ripe fruit and with a layer of earth. It reminds me in many ways of domestic Petite Syrah, with its dark, jammy fruits and leeching, herbal tannin. This bottling was no exception: Ripe plum and blackberry, with roasted coffee, ground baking spices and Italian dirt. Lush on the palate, until the tannins take hold and wring your tongue dry, demanding that you have another bite of red meat.

Kara I were fortunate enough to spend National Wine Day at Arnaldo-Caprai when we visited Umbria. The winery, which is enormous, had a walking tour through the vineyard with five stops, each offering a different dish and Caprai wine to match. At the final stop, the party really took off with a live band. It was a madhouse, but an amazing experience. On a hot summer day, as it was, the Grecante (made from Grechetto grapes) was really hitting the spot.

As I was enjoying the New York and Long-Grain Wild Rice with the Sagrantino, I noted that the wine really wasn't delivering as much as I would have liked on the palate. The nose was so perfumey and enticing, almost like a theoretical combination of a new and old Bordeaux mixed in the same glass. But the wine fell a little too flat on the palate. I noted that I was drinking from the over-sized Riedel Cabernet stem, which George had called his "troublemaker". I opened a half bottle of Anakota Cabernet the night before and had the same experience with that wine. The glass, perhaps? Could it possibly be George Riedel coming back to haunt me?!

I brought out the Hermitage glass for comparison. The nose was much less perfumed and expansive from this stem. The aromas were more focused, like a laser beam to the nostrils. The complexity of the nose remained, but the alcohol and volatile acidity (nail polish remover) were turned up a notch. It would be difficult to match the beauty of the nose achieved from the Cabernet glass. However, on the palate, the wine from the Hermitage glass gave me the desired balance and flavors I was expecting from the Sagrantino. The rich fruit giving way to the even more emphasized tannins and fruit seed bitterness. I definitely preferred this glass on the palate.

So- what to do? Like a real wine geek, I smelled the wine from the Cabernet glass and sipped from the Hermitage glass. Yeah - I know it's weird, but I get to fall back on the fact that it's my job. How are you going to explain that you want two different glasses the next time you go out to a restaurant...? Well, you could always tell them I told you so...

Chicken Cordon Bleu: Old World vs. New World

2011-05-09T12:34:00.000-07:00

I've been getting more experimental with some of my favorite home recipes these days. The first time I ever made Chicken Cordon Bleu was in college from a book called 365 Ways to Cook Chicken. Having only experienced mediocre versions of it as a kid, having a freshly made rendition was mind-blowing. I've used some aspect of that recipe ever since.

To vary things up this go-round, I whirred up some fresh bread crumbs for a change. I've been making bread like a madman with this new sourdough starter I'm growing. I also switched up the cheese for a truffle cheese Costco is carrying right now.

Now - the wine! I made this two nights in a row so we had the chance to do another little Battle Royal. On Night One, I served the Sanguis 'Fractured Flowers' 2008, which I had never tried. Matthias made less than 300 bottles of this 100% Viognier from old vines in the Bien Nacido vineyard. I was allocated three bottles on the mailing list. Jar didnt get any... Classic Viognier! Peach and citrus aromas wrapped in white flowers. Controlled on the palate and expressing the typical peach pit bitterness on the mid-palate and into the finish. This Viognier doesn't feel fat or acidulated, which are the major pitfalls with this grape. Beautiful balance and typicity.

As a pairing, this wine actually made an interesting addition to the meal. The wine showed more of an accent on the citrus tones with the food. However, I loved the layer of cling peaches with the fried bread crumbs. It reminded me of being in the south and having fried chicken and peach cobbler. This wouldn't have been my very first choice for this dish, but I was jones-ing to try this wine and there wasn't much chance of it being an offensive pairing.

On Night Two, we took things to the Old World with Pascal Janvier's 'Cuvee du Silex', Jasnieres 2008. Chenin Blanc from forty miles north of Vouvray and planted on the infamous Silex soil of the Loire Valley. I've had this wine a number of times before and it always surprises me how it plays with food. The wine is a funky little girl: the musty wet wooliness of Chenin is there, but also honeyed notes, Meyer lemon, peach, and a green layer that Kara called asparagus, but I though was more in the realm of grass or tea. The wine is definitely off-dry, and while Kara noted that she didn't think this wine had any acidity, she changed her tune when we hit the food. The dish toned down the sweetness and allowed a salty lemon-curd character to shine in the Chenin. The dish really took this wine to another level.

I don't think I can say one of these wines was better than the other. Each worked in their own way. If pressed, I'd probably take the Sanguis, but it wasn't really as refreshing as the Jasnieres turned out to be. Sommelier's Recommendation: Open both and have a glass of each!

On an unrelated note, Cooper seems to have developed an alcoholism issue. This, along with Parker's disturbing love for Prosciutto, concerns me for my safety while I sleep...

New Kid on the Block in Beaujolais

2011-05-07T12:44:00.000-07:00

As I'm sitting here wrapping up monthly inventory with my mug of Starbucks, my thoughts return to one of the bottles I tasted this week. While one often thinks of enjoying a nice crisp white about mid-day (especially with your face buried in a spreadsheet of the great wines of the world), with the cool breeze that's currently glazing over Los Angeles this afternoon, I'm reminded of how delicious and refreshing Cru Beaujolais can be at a time like this. And with the profound 2009 vintage on the market right now, there will likely never be a better time than right now to go enjoy a bottle!

"Beaujolias?!!!", you say? "Isn't that the black cherry Jell-o tasting stuff that's like grape juice?!" Well, in some cases, yes. Particularly on the Nouveau end of things. But Cru Beaujolais from the major villages can be as interesting as many wines from Burgundy and often more refreshing. And likely more drinkable in their youth, but with a potential to show earthy complexity over the following ten years or so. Of course, the stigma attached is hard to overcome for most. Even George Riedel at his recent seminar in Los Angeles quoted the Duke of Burgundy as saying "Take this crap south!", in reference to the Gamay grape Beaujolais is made from. But I know you're more open-minded than that...

2009 is being touted as the best vintage in Beaujolais in decades. Perhaps the best ever? Though it seems we hear that about some region every year these days. In my estimation, it's definitely an arguable level of quality, as it was in the Rhone in 2007. In much the same way, the wines are riper and more generous than usual, making them perhaps a little less typical. In my tastings so far, I would agree that these wines are darker, denser and more "real" wines than many that I have experienced. Fuller-bodied, due to commonly experienced higher alcohol levels, and richer mouth-feel are not uncommon.

So, back to the bottle I'm reminiscing about in particular: the Thibault Liger-Belair 'Les Roucheaux' Moulin-a-Vent 2009. Dark and rich on the nose with blackberry, black raspberry and black plum, fresh tobacco, almost a feeling of smokiness, and elegantly perfumed florality in spades. Much more austere than expected on the palate, showing structure and crisp acidity. This is wildly perplexing because it's austere, but also fresh and generously fruity at the same time! Only 375 cases made with a retail price of about $25/bottle. Kara, who blind-tasted this as usual, placed it as a really good Dolcetto (mostly because she liked it so much, therefore it must be Italian). Not a bad call.

This is the first vintage from Thibault Liger-Belair who recently acquired this property with vines of, on average, sixty years of age. Pretty impressive start: property in the Moulin-a-Vent, arguably the best appelation in Beaujolais, and from the 2009 vintage. These wines are probably a little on the higher side of the price spectrum for Beaujolais, making the value a little less pronounced, but the delivery is well worth the few extra bucks. Unfortunately, there is a miniscule amount of his three bottlings. If you spot them, they're well worth your time and dollars.

The Riedel Seminar

2011-05-05T12:59:00.000-07:00

I love Riedel stemware. We don't use very much of it at JAR, but I keep an extensive amount of styles at home to experiment with. Ever since my first seminar with George Riedel, I was sold on the importance of the shape of the glass and its effect on the wine. Since that first eye-opening experience, I have always made it a point to attend any of his seminars that I can get to.

Each seminar I've attended has had its own focus, generally centered around a collection of three different stems. My personal favorite was the spirits seminar, which I found to be the most dramatic. The grappa glass was a real eye-opener! This seminar was focused strictly on red wines: Pinot Noir, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

To begin his lecture, Mr. Reidel, who is actually a very funny and talented public speaker, showed the effect of the delivery of each glass. By using a mineral water, he illustrated how a particular glass can strike your palate in a different way, thereby changing the experience texturally. An interesting approach, given that there is no flavor to water. The Cabernet glass was the clear favorite in its delivery of the liquid across the palate in the most thirst-quenching manner.

Getting down to the wines, each of the glasses showed its intended varietal in the purest way. The Pinot Noir glass highlighted the florality and acidity, which was lost completely in the Cabernet glass, as well as any aromas at all. The Syrah showed the most flavors out of the Hermitage glass, and accented only a few characteristics from the other stems. The Cabernet changed slightly from glass to glass, but was the least dramatic of the examples. With a different Cabernet than the extra-ripe 2007 Barnett Cabernet, I think it would have been a more effective showing.

In the final leg of his lecture, Mr. Riedel offered that food is a key component with wine as well. "I have provided chocolate", he chimed in his Austrian accent, referring to the Lindor truffle at each of our seats. He suggested that the positives and negatives of food and wine pairing were also accentuated by the proper stem. This message was lost on me since I don't really care for chocolate with dry wine and found it a poor pairing in either case. But I did appreciate the chocolate.

I highly recommend attending one of these seminars if the opportunity presents itself. They are usually very eye-opening and, even if you don't choose to buy a bunch of different Riedels, they will encourage you to think more about which glass you pull out of the cabinet. I just re-organized my wine glass cupboard to have easier access to all of my various stemware so I can do a little more experimentation at home. Heck - you can even grab a few different Riedels at the store and perform the seminar yourself! But I guess it won't be the same without the Austrian accent...

6th Annual Boys and Girls Brunch

2011-05-03T12:34:00.000-07:00

Every year or so, a bunch of wine geeks and I get together for a blind smackdown at a Sunday brunch. The tradition was spawned from an old friend who invited all of his male buddies for such an event called "Boys' Lunch", but girls were not allowed. Kara would always be upset that she wasn't invited, so I fired up an inclusive version and named it "Boys' and Girls' Brunch", or BGB.

The idea is fairly simple: Every participant brings a foil-wrapped bottle of wine. Throughout the brunch, the wines are tasted blind and ultimately voted on for first, second, third and LAST place. The first place winner gets a free brunch. The dreaded last place recipient is forced to imbibe some horrific concoction. For example: a shot of Fernet Branca, olive juice, Campari and milk would not be out of the realm of possibilities. It's a refreshing change for me especially since we aren't trying to deduce where the wine is from or what grape(s) it's made from. Rather, this is just about deciding which wine you think shows best - or, more simply- which is your favorite.

The attendees have changed over the years. This year, we had quite a range of experience, including a Master Sommelier candidate, at the table. Even our casual wine drinkers had fairly extensive cellars from which to draw their wine. With so many experienced palates, it was actually quite difficult to determine a wine that would speak to all of the tasters.

With everyone in attendance in the lounge at JAR, the tasting commenced. I poured all of the wines from a decanter to ensure no one would recognize their bottle or foil work. A few white wines were in the mix, as well as a sparkler, which were poured first. I poured slope-shouldered bottled before Bordeaux bottles in a blind effort to create some kind of fair order.

After the initial tasting, we offer the opportunity to retaste any wines side-by-side to determine any close calls. Usually, these tough calls are for first or last place.

With the votes placed and the results on the paper, here is how it all shook out. For those who were willing to donate their notes, I have included some of the comments as they were recorded:

1st place: Domaine de la Bouissiere ‘La Font de Tonin’, 1997 Gigondas

Comments: Tobacco, cigar box, Chinon?, sediment, red, old, GSM, spice, old Bordeaux, gritty tannin, super interesting, Rhone Blend, awesome

2nd place: Orin Swift ‘Abstract, 2009

Comments: Really juicy blueberry and bramble, balanced, Syrah, could be Spanish Garnacha, nice nose, not as boisterous as #7, cherry cough syrup, jammy, blah -, extremely fruity, Beaujolias?

3rd place: Sanguis ‘Waxing Poetic’ 2006Syrah

Comments: Perfumey, dark fruits, butterscotch, brown sugar, brownie batter, viscous, menthe and eucalyptus, lush and sweet, Aussie Shiraz/Cab, big alcohol, nice oak integration, eh...

And the DREADED Last Place: Ravenswood ‘Barricia’ Zinfandel 2006

Comments: Very restrained, lacking much of anything, lavender and herbs? Tight and young – not expressive, can’t get any nose, Malbec/Zin?, cooked?, yucky!, blech!, boring -, too tight and young

The losing participant (who shall remain nameless) was forced to drink the decanter rinse of all ten wines. No spit, but one of the wines was corked.

Other wines on the table were:

Gramona, Cava NV

Comments: Marmalade, toast, apple, fresh fruit, crisp, Schramsberg?, light floral, Roquefort, lemongrass, bright citrus, crab apple, refreshing but not a lot of character, tasty

Cable Bay, Riesling, New Zealand 2007

Comments: Petrol, lime, austere nose, lime bud candy, off-dry, good but a little sweet, buttery nose, fairly soft, tropical, roundness, some age, passion fruit, grapefruit, wet gravel, nice acid, chalk, light, fat and waxy

Tramin, ‘Stoan’, 2006 Alto Adige (Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurtztraminer)

Comments: Grapefruit, grass, citrus rind, New World Sauv Blanc?, bright fresh and sweet on nose, honeysuckle, pineapple, lime, fresh pineapple, warm climate, some oak, Like!, Chard – balanced oak, White Burg?

Chateau de Fonsalette, Cote du Rhone 2000

Comments: Candied red fruits, fat juicy Grenache character, wishy-washy, smells like port, raisins, over the hill, flat, tannin, structure, bland, lighter, a bit mushy

Freemark Abbey ‘Bootleg’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Comments: Mountainside herbal tone, black fruit, restrained, good but not expressive, youthful, strawberry jam, not distinctive, dusty, thin, hedonistic, balanced, young, pretty standard Cab

And, in another tragic case of TCA, a bottle of Pichon Lalande 1995 was corked and disqualified. The cork dorks we are, we immediately tried the Saran Wrap trick. If you're not familiar, there is a theory that Saran Wrap bonds to the molecules of TCA, thereby removing the offensive musty smell. However, the truth is that it doesn't really bring back the fruit to the wine, nor its integrity. That seemed to be the case here, in my estimation.

As always, it was a fantastic time and I leave the event meaning to increase its frequency, but a year always goes by so quickly. A special thanks to all of the participants and their insightful selections. See you soon!

Bond and Burgers! - Again!

2011-05-01T12:30:00.000-07:00

We couldn't possibly be together with my folks and not have burgers at Morton's. It's a staple for us. Through its many phases - "Bordeaux and Burgers", "Cab and Cow", "Bond and Burgers", "Harlan and Hamburgers" and other alliterative combinations as well - we decided to revisit Bond and Burgers because of Kara's love for the winery on this trip.

To begin, we tried the new release of Luc Morlet's Chardonnay 'Ma Douce' 2009. While good, I found it somewhat underwhelming. It showed terrific balance and control, but fell into a small trap between the lines of Burgundian and Californian style that left me unclear as to what Luc was going for. None of us really commented on the wine, which lead me to believe that none of us really thought much of it. I do like these wines, but I hope the higher end efforts express more character and hook.

With the burgers, we broke into a Caymus 'Special Selection' 1999 and a Bond 'St. Eden' 2003. The Caymus was drinking great, but I think it's right in its window now. Lots of spice on the nose and palate with present but softening fruit on the palate. When you taste current vintages of Caymus, you realize, in comparison, how quickly the fruit in these wines fade and when your preferred window of drinking might be. This 1999 was right there for me - maybe a hair past even. On the flip side of the soft spicy Caymus, was the Bond: Super-ripe and less characteristic of my favorite Bond bottling than I had hoped. Aromatically, it smelled of freshly crushed Cabernet grapes and stems. I know that sounds weird - but I once crushed grapes in my kitchen with the stems and this was precisely the same compound. I think this bottle showed a little more oxidation than most might - there was an edge of Port-iness to it that I found off-putting, but it was a delicious drink and lent a tremendous amount of juiciness to the burger. There are better vintages of St. Eden and I would not really recommend this one as an introduction to the vineyard or Bond style based on the showing of this particular bottle.

Another episode of Morton's burgers under our belt, we returned victorious to the house, making plans for a lighter dinner on our last night. I think we need to stock up on some more white wines...

Cork: The Most Dangerous Game

2011-04-29T12:54:00.000-07:00

I think there have been volumes written already on the danger of continuing to use cork as a closure for wine and all of the many reasons why we, as consumers, will not allow a clean changeover to any other means of sealing wine bottles. I certainly don't want to re-hash old information because I assume, if you are reading this blog about wine, that you already know the basics about it. Far be it from me to bore you with things you have already heard a hundred times before.

In light of my step-father's loss of a magnum of Harlan Estate Cabernet to TCA, I promised him I'd create a blog entry so the $1000 bottle we had to pour down the drain was not a complete loss. I figured it was the least I could do. And what better time to hit this topic that when it strikes in the most costly of forms!

In recent weeks, I have been cursing the day that I became familiar with TCA and my ability to notice it in wine. I've been coming across more and more faulty wines. With the ability to spot TCA, you wind up dumping a lot of wines down the drain. I hazard to think of how many faulty bottles I may have consumed prior to the moment when that unwelcomed musty smell became all too familiar. In retrospect, I think that Texas Chardonnay that I bought at the Dollar Store out of morbid curiousity was tragically corked. I remember pouring that one down the drain, thank God!

It amazes me how many people will open an expensive bottle of wine, notice that something is off about it (most usually TCA), and force themselves to drink it anyway. Of course it hurts to pour any amount of money down the drain! But what's in the bottle is also not the product you purchased, nor the product that the winery and winemaker wanted you to enjoy. It would be like buying a bag of Cool Ranch Doritos and opening it to find flavorless rice cakes. Gross! You probably would force those down if you were expecting Doritos. Why would you drink a faulty wine?

On a personal level, it makes for a very uncomfortable situation when dining or drinking with friends. As the professional sommelier, I generally have to be the person to announce to someone that their wine is toast and needs to be dumped. For example, when dining at Cuistot in the desert this past week with my folks, I discovered the '95 Dom Perignon he brought was infected with TCA. I thought there was a good chance Dave might catch this one, since we'd just had it at Spago a week before, but it slipped by him. Thankfully, I'd ordered a martini already and no one noticed that I wasn't drinking the bubbles. Kara chastised me for not saying anything, but it's very difficult to be the person to announce that your expensive bottle of wine can't be drunk.

In my experience, some wineries will take ownership of those faults, despite it not really being any wrong-doing of their own. I'm certainly not going to ask Harlan to replace a maggie because I don't think there's a snowball's chance in Vegas that they would, but smaller producers who are making a name for themselves or big producers who don't want to lose your business might. Sometimes, even the retailer who sold you the wine will take the wine back and deal with the winery or ditributor themselves so you experience a better level of service from their end. It's always worth a try, I think. Certainly at the restaurant level, we are obliged to keep you from drinking a faulty product that we are selling.

I'm becoming more accepting every month of any new form of closure. Watching all of this hard-earned money go to waste is becoming more sickening. Yes, there are concerns about longevity, oxidation, age-ability, and more. But what about the fact that all of this wine is being destroyed? And even more frightening, what if that had been someone's very first bottle of Harlan, thereby forming their first and probably only impression about that winery with a disgustingly corked bottle? The damage being done to wineries is almost more frightening.

I will get off of my soap box now. Every so often, I think most sommeliers have a build up that needs a release. Blowing off of steam, if you will. My advice to you as a consumer is to make a concerted effort to learn the smell of TCA in wine, if you don't recognize it already. Know if what you have in your bag is actually Doritos or if someone duped you with rice cakes. It's your moral obligation to yourself and the wineries you support with your precious dollars.

Easter Dinner with Family

2011-04-25T13:53:00.002-07:00

For the first time in a long while, I got to spend a holiday with some out-of-town family. My folks returned from Palm Desert on Easter Sunday, which gave me an opportunity to prepare a special and festive dinner for them. While we might normally have gone out, it was highly likely that most places would have been closed down for the holiday.

As they arrived in the early afternoon, we began the day with a bottle of Andre Robert's Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc Champagne, Brut NV. I don't know that I've mentioned sparkler wine yet, but it has quickly become my new "house" Champagne. As well as the glass pour at Jar! It's a combination of three to four vintages and bottled from Grand Cru vineyards in Les Mesnil sur Oger. A very good value and satisfying bottle: Rich orange marmalade, citrus, very fruit driven with minerality behind it. While it has slightly less acidity and mineral than I might like, it has been a terrific crowd-pleaser both at home with guests and at the restaurant.

If there wasn't enough mineral in the Champagne for my personal palate, I got it back in spades on the next bottle: the Domaine Servin 'Butteaux' Chablis 1er Cru 2008. I served this wine with a trio of oysters that included Fanny Bay, Kushi and a local oyster from Carlsbad. I think we plowed through somewhere between two and three dozen oysters as we enjoyed this wine. The Chablis is still incredibly young, of course, and shows a lot of primary citrus flavors, but I was loving it with the oysters. I once heard someone say that a core of lemon flavor in your wine will preclude the necessity to add lemon to your oysters. While I don't usually add anything to my oysters, it's nice to re-introduce that layer of flavor to the pairing without tainting the integrity of the oyster itself. I think we all agreed the Kushi oysters were the best oyster and pairing. The Carlsbad oysters were a little too intense for the wine and showed a bitter radish finish that might have been better complemented by a Gruner Veltliner or something of the like.

The next course is one of my absolute favorites to prepare at home because the wine pairing just blows everyone's mind: a Brie and Blue Cheese Quesadilla with Brown Sugar and Pear Compote matched with Alsacian whites. I have traditionally matched a Gewurztraminer with this, but wanted something slightly less intense for my folks. I went with the Kuentz-Bas 'Eichberg' Pinot Gris 2004. It showed the rich, fat character of Alsace with honeyed notes of red apple, orange and pear. It was perfect with the warm, cheesy goodness oozing from the crisped tortilla. As I explained to my folks, I don't always gravitate toward Alsace for drinking because it's just a bit too heavy for me, but I would never drink anything else with this small plate of food. They don't have much exposure to Alsace wines, but I think this was an eye-opener for them.

After an extended break to digest, we opened the third course with French Onion Soup that we drank some Kistler 'Cuvee Elizabeth Bodega Headlands Vineyard' Pinot Noir 2004. This came from my step-father's cellar and was classic Kistler Pinot: dark fruit with perfumey florality, hints of spice and an overall feel of extra-ripe young Burgundy from the barrel. It worked well with the soup.

For dinner, I prepared individual Beef Wellingtons. I keep using this dish because it is fairly quick and easy to prepare, and continues to get "wows" from everone who cracks into that golden pastry. We enjoyed a bottle of Levy & McClellan 2004 with this course. This is the first time I've sat down for a meal with a wine from this producer, although I've tasted it before. The 2004 is their first vintage and is still showing incredibly young. Formidable tannins wrapped in black fruits, licorice, smoke, and chocolate. This is a monster of a wine and should not be opened for a number of more years to come. I blind-tasted mom on this wine and she said it was Harlan-esque. Good for her! Same winemaker, but different vineyard source.

Before I opened the Levy & McClellan, Dave had pulled a magnum of 2000 Harlan Estate from his cellar to enjoy over the rest of the evening. It was one of the most tragically corked bottles I have run into in a while. It's also the first corky bottle of Harlan I've experienced in my career. My mother, whose favorite wine is Harlan, noticed immediately after smelling it. While she doesn't normally notice corked wines right away, her vast exposure to this producer made it fairly obvious. After licking our wounds, Dave had me pull a 1999 Harlan Estate from his cellar instead to go head-to-head with the Levy & McClellan. This was a perfect bottle! It reminded me very much of a younger version of the 1993 I had recently tasted. Impeccable balance, graphite and pencil lead, blue and black fruits, florality, coffee, herbaceousness, anise and terrific depth of fruit. This wine also went very well with the Wellingtons, and was showing much better than the Levy & McClellan with the additional age.

In need of more wine as we settled in for the night, we also opened a Hundred Acre 'Kayli Morgan' 2005. My palate was fairly fatigued after the extended day of drinking and all of the monstrous California Cabernet we had just drank, so I will reserve any formalized tasting notes, suffice it to say that the style was consistent with the very rich and silky Hundred Acres I have enjoyed in the past. It was no slouch in comparison to the big dogs we had just put away.

It was wonderful to have a holiday with family again. I think we made the most of the opportunity. It certainly took its toll on our wine cellars!

Dinner at Spago with the Folks

2011-04-25T13:53:00.001-07:00

My parents come in every year to spend a week in Palm Desert. They generally sandwich the trip with a couple of days in Los Angeles to round out the debauchery and truly secure the need for a complete detox when they return to Toronto. I've been singing the praises of Spago for a few years now and, after a couple of lunch experiences, they finally relented and agreed to dinner on their first night in.

The wine line-up was top-notch. We opened with a bottle of 1995 Dom Perignon which was drinking beautifully. I've always been a fan of Dom, as cliche as that is, but in blind tastings, I have a tendency to prefer it. Showing wonderful rich fruit and freshness, it's a Champagne that is drinkable today and will likely show well for a number of years to come. It was fantastic with the amuse of Tuna Tartare Cone that is a staple at Spago.

As we moved into the first course, I ordered a Lamb Gnocchi to match the Pierre Usseglio 'Cuvee de Mon Auiel' 2006. Kara, who would not miss the Sweet Pea Agnolotti, saved some Dom for this course. The pasta was magnificent, but I would be lying if I didn't admit to stealing a number of Kara's agnolotti. The butter sauce was an interesting pairing with the Rhone, but the gnocchi and lamb really allowed the perfumey character of the Rhone to shine. The Herbs de Provence and refined dark fruit, florality and pepper all melded beautifully.

Our sommelier, Maria, poured the two Bordeauxs side-by-side blind. Not that it was much of a challenge, but the gauntlet was thrown to determine which was the 1982 Pichon Lalande and 1990 Lynch Bages. We had all had each of these wines before. Personally, I found the decision fairly obvious. The 1990 Lynch Bages was still showing firm structure, primary fruit characteristics with some development, and merely a moderate amount of complexity, particularly in comparison to the Pichon Lalande. The Pichon, however, was exuding savory components that were mindbending: dried mushrooms, dried soy sauce, dried flowers, tobacco leaf and cigar box, integrated black currant and blackberry, baking spices and an astounding elegance. The 1982 Pichon Lalande was clearly the wine of the night and I was so happy to be drinking it yet again.

As we pulled back in to the garage, we spotted our neighbors who dropped in to enjoy a little more wine and beer with us. We cracked open a Marquis Philips 'Integrity' 2002, a Hundred Acre 'Kayli Morgan' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, and a John Anthony Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 to party with. The Integrity was rich, intense, full-bodied and more port-like than wine-like. Not really my style, despite the high ratings. The Hundred Acre was perfumed with dark fruits and full-bodied as well. A delicious California Cab that few would argue showed typicity for the grsape and region. We were toast by the time we hit the John Anthony, but it was a decent follow-up to the Hundred Acre and did not disappoint, particularly for the price.

We hit it pretty hard the first night out, but we like to set the bar high straight out of the gate. This trip was no exception. I have found the recovery getting to be more challenging these years... Oh well.

Cooking Class at Jar

2011-04-25T13:32:00.000-07:00

We periodically host a cooking class at Jar on Saturday mornings. Twelve lucky souls are ushered into the underbelly of Jar's kitchen to watch Chef Suzanne Tracht demonstrate how to make some of Jar's most popular dishes. I also get to make some guest appearances to showcase some fun wines to match the dishes being prepared. For the guests, it is a unique experience to have a personal chef and sommelier serving them for lunch.

The menu for this most recent class included our Little Gem Caesar Salad, Braised Lamb Shank with Sauteed Baby Broccoli, and finished off with Sandra's Chocolate Decadence.

I always start the class out with some kind of sparkling wine as an aperitif. We enjoyed a glass of Ca' del Roro Prosecco Brut NV this week. Notes of honey, lemon and green apple, dry on the palate and imminently drinkable. As I said to the class, "what else do you want to drink at 11am...?!"

To match the Caesar Salad, I poured a new wine that we've discovered at Jar and are currently pouring by the glass: The Paring "The Point" Chardonnay 2009. This is something of a second label for newcomers Jonata. These wines are meant to be food-friendly and easy to drink. The Chardonnay fits the bill perfectly! The classic green apple and pear flavors are there, but much crisper and cleaner. There is a salinity to the wine and a green edge that shows like a fresh parsley. Unoaked, no malo, and delicious.

Matching the Lamb Shank, I poured Scholium Project's 'Babylon' Petite Syrah 2005. This is a monster of a wine! Dark wild berry fruit with firm structure, licorice, baking spices and a soft herbaceousness. This producer is very unique and some of the efforts they are making with their wine production is very impressive. This is my favorite bottling from them. And it worked great with the lamb shank, playing off the star anise Suze uses in the braise.

The group had a wonderful time, as always. As challenging as it is to get up so early on a Saturday morning after a Friday night service, I always have a great time myself. It's exciting to have a captive audience and the opportunity to pull out some of the overlooked wines from Jar's list.

Dana Estate 2007 at Spago

2011-04-16T12:45:00.000-07:00

I love Spago. I know it's cliche, but there's a reason it's still around after all these years and you will almost always find foodies and wine-lovers alike. In fact, today virtually every wine person I know in Los Angeles was present at different tables. And Mario Batalli was sporting his orange crocks at a table just across the patio. There's just nothing like lunch at Spago!

Well, on to the wine: Good friend Daniel Ha who runs Sales and Hospitality up at Dana Estate in Napa contacted me to attend a little trade lunch. They don't have any wine to sell until later this year so it was really more of an opportunity for we sommeliers to actually sit down with the wines we have sold but rarely tasted. Fellows sommeliers from Bouchon, Valentino and Capo were also at the table.

Dana Estate is the most successful of the new line-up of "cult wineries". The Helms Vineyard and winery exist on the former Livingston-Moffet property just behind Whitehall Lane in Rutherford. The winery proper was built out from the original ghost winery. The facility is nothing short of amazing and is the quintessential example of sparing no expense. Famed designer of the Harlan and Bond facilities, Howard Backen, was brought in to design Dana. The concept in much of what they do ties a little of something old to something new.

The same can be said for their wines. They nod their head to the traditional wines and seek out some of the minerality and structure one might expect from Bordeaux, but utilize all new winemaking technology available for their wines. Famed winemaker Phillipe Melka is on staff, but also has a new budding winemaker straight out of school working with them as well. The vineyard was originally planted in the 1880's, but now plays home to a brand new winery in Dana.

Dana's first release was the 2005 Helms Vineyard, which had a very limited distribution as there were a mere 500 cases. From what I understand, the winery kept their hands on a very large portion of it for future use. Right out of the gate, press was favorable with a 94pt score from Parker. The next vintage incorporated two more vineyards into the line-up: the Lotus Vineyard from a hillside vineyard further north in St. Helena and the Hershey vineyard which is on Howell Mountain and produces under 100 cases at the moment. Press was favorable again in 2006 with the two distributed labels earning 94 and 95 pt scores.

And then - the highly revered 2007 vintage struck! Most winemakers are raving about this vintage for its decided New World-ness and ripeness. A large handful of wines were awarded the elusive 100 pt score and Dana was no exception. The Lotus vineyard took the lead with Helms trailing at 97 and Hershey 96+. Dana was off and running in a mere three years, absorbing all of the clamoring collectors looking for the next big wine list to be on.

My first experience with these wines was visiting the property at Daniel's invitation. He poured the 2006 Helms and Lotus vineyards for me. I found the Lotus to be a much more heavy-handed style that I would have a hard time drinking, showing super-ripe fruit and alcohol. The Helms, however, stopped me in my tracks with its balance, complexity and typicity. I also had the opportunity to taste the 2007 Lotus late last year when first released and found the bottling, at that time, to be consistent with my feelings on the 2006.

We sat down to lunch and enjoyed a 2006 Raveneau 'Montee de Tonnerre' Chablis with the many amuses and salads. It was an amazing start! The Bacon en Croute is to die for! The Raveneau, while still a baby, showed boatloads of minerality, slate, chalk and salinity, but all wrapped up in this wonderful ripe sheath of lemon, lime and baked apple. The minerals clung to my palate for the rest of the afternoon. A true benchmark in Chablis and worth every penny you pay for it.

The Dana wines were poured with a truly amazing steak course. The 2007 Helms Vineyard offered ripe black currant and cassis, crisp blackberry acidity, ripe tannins that are not intrusive, cedar, spice, chocolate and an incredibly long finish. This was a riper version of the 2006 which I adored. An herbal overtone adds further complexity with time in the glass and, I must say, this wine changed pretty frequently during the course of the meal. The 2007 Lotus Vineyard was also consistent with my last tasting and the style of the 2006. Right out of the gate, it was flamboyent and fruity, almost like a young vintage port. A soy and mineral character is also present, but more challenging to find beneath the gobs of ripeness. Plush texture, blackberry jam and candied cherries, taking full-bodied to the next level. Very intense fruit with brown sugar and chocolate notes. With time in the glass, this bottling also began to settle into itself and find more balance. Hopefully, time in the cellar will do the same.

This is a very impressive operation and certainly one to experience, if the opportunity should arise. Unfortunately, many of these wines are already hibernating in collectors' trophy cellars and won't arise again for a few years. If aging is not kind, we may see some on the markets before too long. But with a release price of almost $300, meager production, and all the press, at what cost will they resurface?

Our 3rd Wedding Anniversary

2011-04-14T11:02:00.000-07:00

Kara and I celebrated our third wedding anniversary this week. We decided to grab a bottle of Harlan 'Maiden' 2005 and go grab a burger from Morton's for lunch. While basic, it's one of the best burgers in the city. Sure, Father's Office has a more interesting make-up, but for a hearty and comforting (not to mention monstrous...) burger - Morton's rocks!

After a delicious Dogfish Head 90-Minute IPA (one of my new favorite beers!) to match with the Wedge Salad, we tore into the Maiden. It was drinking beautifully right out of the gate! More precocious than one expects from the Harlan Estate label, it was rife with blue and black fruits, florality, graphite, and coffee. The tannins were present, but ripe and integrated. The acidity was noticable enough to keep the wine lifted and feeling fresh. The expected maturity dates on this wine seem to go longer than I would suspect, based on the way it's showing today. Hard to say, though, with such a short track record at Harlan so far. The '93 we had recently was amazing!

While we might have gone out for a fancy dinner and had more amazing wines, Kara and I opted to invite a few close friends over to celebrate. We cracked out a bunch of beers and (I'm completely embarassed to say...) ordered Papa John's. I guess the romance is truly gone when that's how you spend your anniversary, but we had a great time anyway.

A Wine Lunch at Jar

2011-04-08T20:27:00.000-07:00

Well, I was tempted to title this entry as "The Day I Discovered I Despise Old Cali Cabernet", but I didn't really think it was a fair fight to make such a declaration. Some important age-worthy Cabs were missing from the table and, while these were from the most highly regarded vintages of the 1990's, it doesn't necessarily make them age-worthy.

So, the set-up: Jar is not open for lunch, but we had a regular guest ask if we could host a lunch for his wine tasting group. Suzanne put together a three-course meal to match with reds, a cheese course and dessert. Ten guys showed up, each with a bottle in hand, and the horses were off and running. The theme was California Cabernet from 1994 through 1997. The wines were broken into flights by vintage and poured with each course. An informal tasting, the guys voted on their favorite from each flight.

I sat down with all of the wines after the event had ended to revisit some old acquaintances from years ago. The players in this particular show were all very familiar and read like the wine list from a Ruth's Chris or Morton's Steakhouse. "Boring", is my first repsonse, but I always like to offer myself a little reminder that these wineries are so highly established for a reason. And then Preech (our Chef de Cuisine) walks up and says "Beringer used to make some good wine back in the eighties", almost as if he heard my thoughts and responded.

The first flight included a wine that was completely outside of the theme: Leonetti's 1993 Merlot from Washington. It was tragically corked. Next, the Caymus 'Special Selection' 1994 which was decidedly one of the wines of the tasting for me. Ripe blackberry and black cherry, cigar box, cedar and spice, soft tannins and still vibrant fruit. Drinking great today! The Dunn 'Howell Mountain' 1994 was the wine I would have suspected to like best, but really wasn't giving up much today. Very reluctant nose, but typical dusty, herbal Dunn-style. Very lively acidity and tannin, but the fruit was challenged. Perhaps in a dumb phase?

The second flight started with the Flora Springs 'Rutherford Hill Reserve' 1995 which I could barely get past the nose to taste. The volatile acidity on the nose was horrific but the palate came across okay with ripely flavored black fruits that tasted sweet like cherry candy. Showing as I expected was the Silver Oak 'Alexander Valley' 1995, which had its typical dill note on the nose, but little else. Same for the palate - completely over the hill and lacking fruit, but with the body of a somewhat youthful wine. A Pride 'Reserve' 1995 was finished at the lunch so I did not get to try it.

The third flight featured the Beringer 'Private Reserve' 1996. It was at this point I looked at Preech and asked "Is my palate off or do these wines all taste like nothing?!" My notes simply read: lacking anything - dry, astringent and not much fruit or nose. Following that was the B.R. Cohn 'Special Selection' 1996 which was all kinds of disjointed: a slightly unappealing cocoa note (if that's even possible...) with black cherry that came together like a $.99 box of Queen Anne Cordials that someone left in the cabinet for two years. There must've been some residual sugar because it tasted sweet, dry, old, and funky all at the same time. Thank God for the Peter Michael 'Les Pavots' 1996 which showed perfect balance and restraint. The fruit was ripe but integrated, and the tannins were present without being astringent. Cedary and herbal notes with spice played in nicely. I think this one can even go a little longer.

The final flight included a "wringer" that turned out to be the Napa Valley Reserve 1997, made by Bob Levy and Bill Harlan. One suspects this wine must be leftovers from Bond or Harlan and it kind of tastes that way. While owning some of the ame trademarks and elements of those two wineries, they just don't seem to come together as seamlessly. The espresso, graphite, cedar and black fruits are all there, but this bottling is more bitter and astringent on the finish. The tannins are still ripe and coated in fruit, but not as much. I did like this wine, but as a comparison to its siblings, it tastes like a third label. I poured the Beringer 'Private Reserve' 1997 next, which I did not get to taste, but have had plenty of chances to taste and felt like it was gone many years ago. Next, the 1997 Phelps 'Insignia' which I've had varying experiences with over the years. In fact, there were actually two different bottles and they were wildly different in flavors. I believe one of them was cooked or faulty in some way, to be honest. The better of the two bottles showed balanced fruit, a dusty character and was drinkable but not exciting. This wine is an enigma to me. And everytime I decide it's just gone for good, a brilliant bottle will come around and pull the rug out from under me. Sadly, this was not that bottle... And finally, the 1997 Dominus: an overlay of black cherry and currant, anise and earth. Nothing exciting here and surprisingly not as much in the Bordeaux-style as one would expect. Decent and probably as good as it's going to get.

I'm not going to get up on my soap box about European wines, but when these wines from California reach this age where minerality would really begin to show through, it becomes glaringly obvious that we just don't have that kind of minerality here at all. Clearly the wine world is in flux and it will be interesting to see what happens down the road when these New World-styled Bordeauxs reach maturity. Will they still be capable of expressing the same minerality as they did when made in a more archaic/classic style? We'll see in about ten more years...

I'm not encouraging anyone to go out and dump all of these wines down the drain! I'm simply stating that in a completely critical and analytical frame of mind, these wines were not really impressive. To ME! Some were good, some tragic, and many in the middle-of-the-road. If I popped the cork on one of them for dinner one night at home, I would drink it and be happy I had the experience. Mostly, I'm just really glad I sold many of those wines a few years ago for a healthy profit.

Wine is foremost about what you like and I just seem to have really outgrown this phase... And I'll outgrow the phases I'm in now, likely. But being comfortable knowing and saying what you like is more important than anything, especially when it comes to wine. Not being afraid to try new things is a pretty close second, but like mom always said, "How do you know you don't like it if you've never even tried it?"

Port Brewing 'Mongo' VS. Russian River Brewing 'Pliny the Elder'

2011-03-20T12:31:00.000-07:00

I had a beer tasting today with a new distributor we'll be purchasing beers from at Jar. They have a terrific selection of cool craft brews and, with my growing fascination for beer, I've deemed that Jar's selections are in need of a little face lift. It's very likely I would have blogged about the full line-up we looked at, but I found this particular aspect of the tasting a much more interesting topic.

While this particular distributor carries the seldom seen and highly sought after 'Pliny the Elder', made by the Russian River Brewing Company, it's nearly impossible to get. Very allocated and only a handful of accounts can get their hands on it - and even then, they may only get a case every couple of weeks. This is the beer that I've heard many a Master Sommelier say is their favorite beer in the world. It's a Double IPA that is exquisitely balanced and a life-changer in the category. At least, it was for me...

My salesman brought along an alternative to the tasting today: Port Brewing's 'Mongo'. Also a Double IPA, the word on the street is that the brewer, being a big fan of 'Pliny', has decided to make this homage, or tribute, or rip-off (whatever you prefer) to 'Pliny the Elder'. Makes sense - especially knowing that more people are looking for this beer than can get it. Filling a void, as it were!

While fascinated by this prospect, I was immediately skeptical. Could it be that there was a 'Pliny' wannabe?!!! And I haven't been told by my many beer pimps? Well, only one way to find out if it's true...!

I sat down to a slab of cheeses (to wipe away some of the hops) and decided to see if there was any comparison at all, aside from both falling into the Double IPA category. Unfortunately, there is little information about 'Pliny' on the Russian River website and the 'Mongo' spec sheet on the Port Brewing site is virtually unreadable. So, short of any real technical information, here are my findings based strictly on what's in the glass:

Appearance: Immediately it is apparent which is which. No need to ask anyone to blind taste you because you'd know as soon as you looked at them. While they appear nearly the same hue, the 'Mongo' is much cloudier and must not be as filtered.

Aroma: 'Mongo' has a sweeter core of oranges, mixed wiith the intense hoppiness, as well as a subtle tropical tone as well, along the lines of mango or ripe melon. Also, a bit of starfruit tanginess. Certainly, a sweeter overall character. A complete shift of gears to the 'Pliny': Much more savory character and more challenging to pick out any one aspect of it due to an incredible balance within all of its components. Slightly toasty, a little dill perhaps - not overtly any one thing, but rather a little of all things.

Palate: The 'Mongo' shows much less fruit on the palate than one would expect from the nose. While still fruity, it's extremely hoppy from start to finish, light to moderately bodied, with a medium-length, hoppy finish. Fairly astringent overall, with a pine-y and resinous finish. The 'Pliny', on the other hand, follows through on its promise from the nose: subtlety and complexity all beautifully balanced. Hoppy, but not overly so. Slightly fuller in the mouth, creamier, and seemingly more effervescent. There is also a sweet flavor of citrus here, but no real sweetness at all to speak of.

The Verdict: While it may or may not be modeled after 'Pliny the Elder', 'Mongo' is a totally different animal. It would be in closer competition with many other Double IPA's I've had over the past weeks than Pliny. It's a good beer - don't get me wrong! But I think even a beer novice would not be fooled if tasting these two side-by-side. My preferred choice: Hands-down 'Pliny the Elder'. 'Mongo' is more of a simple math problem to me. 'Pliny' is Algebra.

While I'm clearly a flag-carrier for Russian River Brewing Company and 'Pliny the Elder', by no means do I want it to seem that this was an unfair judging. I was actually hoping for 'Mongo' to show brilliantly against the 'Pliny'. I'd certainly be much happier to have something else to buy when I was craving 'Pliny' and couldn't get my hands on any. But, unfortunately, there is only one Chateau Margaux, despite how many Chateau also produce in the Margaux appellation. I think you get my point...

I remember drinking Tanqueray 10 for the first time and it drawing me into the crazy world of gin (which I had previously despised and had no palate for). A gateway drug, to say the least. Now I have cravings for gin from time to time. Not to say that I choose Tanqueray 10 anymore, but it was just what I needed to help me make the jump into that world.

'Pliny the Elder' did the same for me with India Pale Ale. Unfortunately, sometimes you start out with the best and there's no going back. But there are certainly a lot more IPA's in my fridge now as a result of the discovery: Great Divide 'Hercules', Lagunitas 'Maximus', Bear Republic 'Racer 5', and fortunately a sparce few 'Pliny the Elder'.

A Day with Lewis Cellars

2011-03-18T12:07:00.000-07:00

On the heels of our Annual Wine Date, it just so happens that my good buddy Dennis from Lewis Cellars travelled down from Napa to show off the new releases from the winery. We've had a long-standing business relationship that has turned more to friendship now. I've always had a special place in my heart for Lewis wines, even if my personal taste has turned more European in recent years.

The purpose of this particular visit from Dennis was to show the new spring releases, which basically encompass the "Reserve" labels from the winery. Here are the tasting notes:

Sauvignon Blanc 'Reserve' 2009: Lots of ripe melon and tropical notes, blended with freshly ground baking spices. On the palate, chalky texture, but nicely balanced with a rich mouthfeel. Intense for SB, 75% new oak - Chardonnay drinker's style.

Chardonnay 'Barcaglia Lane' 2009: Butterscotch, caramel, fig paste, toast, apple pie, pear tart, overripe pineapple - a plethura of sweet, rich flavors featured in a very BIG package. Some structure here as well. A monstrous Chardonnay and not for the faint of heart.

Chardonnay 'Reserve' 2009: Ripe, but very controlled nose, a touch of herbaceousness, chalky sweetness, with sweet acidity upwelling on the finish. Controlled fruit with terrific balance. Buttered popcorn finish where the oak shines. Surprisingly more Burgundian-styled than my recollection of other vintages. Impressive.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2008: The entry-level Cabernet shows ripe, spicy black currant jam and blackberry with a red-fruited edge. Surprisingly approachable now with very soft structure. Caramel undertones and pie dough underlying. Not one for the cellar, but delicious drinking for tonight, in a plush, ripe and hedonisitic style.

Cabernet Sauvignon 'Reserve' 2008: Significantly more depth and richness than the Napa bottling, darker and more defined fruit, yet holding a freshness to the acidity. Earth tones and charcoal add complexity under the ripe fruit. A chalky sheath of tannin, but completely approachable now. Long, rich, finish.

One of the most interesting, frustrating, and fascinating parts about following the wines of Lewis Cellars is that they can vary significantly from year to year. The Lewis' don't own any of their own vineyards so the source of fruit for many of the wines could, potentially, change from vintage to vintage. Also, they've run through a number of assistant winemakers, including the likes of Helen Turley and Kristoff Anderson, throughout the years since their start in the early nineties. I'm not always sure what to expect anymore, but the obvious through-line is usually attention paid to very ripe fruit and extracted wines.

As for these new releases, I was very pleased to see a more approachable style than I have in recent years. Especially purchasing for a restaurant! These are wines made for enjoying now and in a few years, but don't forget about them in the cellar. In my personal opinion, that's where Napa Valley and Lewis Cellars really excel. Congratulations on a successful new vintage!

The World Pinot Noir Competition

2011-03-16T13:15:00.000-07:00

An unprecedented competition featuring the world's greatest Pinot Noirs was held yesterday in Pasadena. Russ Meek, managing partner of Red, White & Bluezz, organized this slapdown to prove once and for all, amongst a group of thirteen wine professionals, whose bottle truly reigns supreme. The "best of the best" from the vintages of 1990 through 2001 were on the table. Wines were represented from Oregon, California, Burgundy, Australia, New Zealand and Germany. And names like Marcassin, Serafin, Bindi, Beaux Freres, Cristom, Serafin, Williams Selyem and DRC were in play.

As a judge on the panel, I sat down to two flights of ten Pinot Noirs, poured blind. Russ implored us not to try to determine which of the wines was which, or even agonize about where we thought they were from. Rather, the idea was to determine which truly expressed a purity of the grape and showed typicity, as well as complexity. Of course, there is always the "wow" factor to consider as well. Ultimately, we were asked to rank the twenty wines poured in descending order from best to worst.

While all the fun of these kinds of tastings is the period during which you are analyzing the wines, it doesn't really make for a very interesting blog. Reading twenty blind tasting notes, I'd probably lose you around wine number four. So, here are the results, with some brief commentary from my notebook:

The Top Ten in ascending order:

#10: Tolosa Estate 2001: Heavily oaked, rosey and potpourri, perhaps a bit too much alcohol on the nose and volatile acidity
#9: Bindi 'Original Vineyard' 1997: Savory and meaty nose, celery and tomato juice with salt - A Bloody Mary!, rhubarb and earth, peak drinking and haunting! This was my #3 vote.
#8: Serafin 'Charmes Chambertin' 1999: Youthful, expressive red fruits, brown sugar note that comes off as sweeter, very balanced palate with earth
#7: Williams Selyem 'Rochiolli' 1991: Super-intense nose of oak, fruit cake, cherry cobbler, coconut. Over-oaked and over-the-top!
#6: DRC 'La Tache' 1990: Sour cherry, dried flowers, tree bark, mushrooms, significant earth and exquisite balance, while still structured. Silky texture.
#5: Cristom 'Marjorie' 1996: Tangy red fruits, meaty and savory, green notes, leaves, earth and mushroom, still present tannin, velvet texture, elegant, dusty oak in the finish, red-fruited acidity drives a long finish. This was my #2!
#4: Daniel Schuster 'Omihi' 2001: Very intensely sour red fruits with earth, salt and singed herbs. Might be too tangy for most. Baked red fruits with rhubarb. Horsey character as well. Still showing structure. Animalistic!
#3: Hudelot-Noelle 'Richebourg' 1999: Candied red fruit, watermelon rind, anise, sweet strawberry, soft florality, blackberry seeds. Firmly structured and seeming very young and primary. Way ahead of its peak, but has the potential to be phenomenal. Long finish. This was my #4.
#2: Mortet 'Clos de Vougeot' 1996: Evolved character, but still fresh as well. Dusty spices, perfumey potpourri and very expressive. Pure red fruits on the palate, welling acidity, earth tones and fine, chalky tannin. Super-long finish and drinking in what appears to be its peak. Refreshing quality! My #1 wine of the tasting!
#1: McKenna 'Martinborough' 1998: Tangy red fruits with forest floor and mushroom, balanced and appearing youthful still. Evolved quickly with air showing further earth character. Fruit in secondary development, fairly structured, dusty, anise. Very good, but perhaps just ahead of its peak.

In order from #11 through #20, these were the remaining wines on the table:

Bass Phillip Reserve 1998,
Williams Selyem 'Allen' 1995,
Furst Centgrafenberg "R" 2000,
Marcassin 'Marcassin Vineyard' 1998,
Beaux Freres 'Beaux Freres Vineyard' 1994,
Lignier 'Clos de la Roche' 1995,
DDO 'Laurene' 1999,
Patz and Hall 'Alder Springs' 1999,
Yarra Yering 1997,
Yering Station 'Reserve' 1997.

What is to be learned from all of this? As it almost always happens, the voting is completely across the board when there are this many "great" wines on the table. It's a classic case of "splitting hairs" and personal preferences. And, furthermore, this is just a snapshot of all of these wines' lives. The results would be completely different with different tasters, on a different day, or with even different bottles of the same wines. While interesting to see the results of, by no means should the results of this kind of tasting influence anyone's decisions on what to keep in their cellar or on their wine list.

Peronally, I learned that I have more of an affinity for Burgundy than I thought I did. I placed all five Burgs in my top 11 out of 20, including #1. I was still happy to see that my top 3 were diverse, including France, Australia and Oregon. It reinforces my hope that I will always keep an open mind regarding wine regions and styles. This was a very successful tasting for me and certainly a once-in-a-lifetime experience to taste all these wines together.

A Beer Cellar

2011-03-11T12:57:00.000-08:00

I was discussing beer with a colleague not long ago. More specifically, we were talking about cellaring Barley wine-style ales. I quickly came to the realization that I've never had any "aged" beers and, for that matter, don't even know anyone who ages beer. It's challenge enough to find people who can actually find the patience to cellar wine.

So - I've spent some time over the past month seeking out the startings of my new Beer Cellar. I gave a pretty good push over the past few days looking around for some of the rare Russian River Brewing Company bottlings. I visited every Whole Foods in the vicinity and managed to piece together what looks like a fairly good starting place. At this point, I've got one double-shelf cleared out of the wine cellar (and refilled with beer) which, assuming I don't get desperate one night and tear into it, ought to be enough for educational purposes. Although, I'm already having thoughts of dedicating one of the smaller cellars completely to beer.

The starting round-up looks a bit like this: Allagash 'Four Ale' and 'Curieux', Great Divide 'Old Ruffian', Lagunitas 'Gnarly Wine', Stone Brewing Company 'Old Guardian' and 'Belgo', as well as the .375 ml bottlings from Russian River that include 'Consecration', 'Damnation', 'Redemption', and 'Sanctification'.

I even located a couple of bottles of Pliny the Elder at Green Jug in Woodland Hills. They're not for aging, but I'm happily going to enjoy them in the meantime.

I've also been tasting a number of other Barley wine beers over the past couple days, looking for a few other labels to add to the mix. It's easy to forget how much alcohol they have in them. And they only come in larger formats! This morning I woke up with a vice grip on my head...

The goal now is to forget about them for two to three years. When the great day comes that I will remove them from hibernation, the idea is to purchase current release versions of the same labels and taste the aged version next to its youthful sibling. This was the easy part. Forgetting about them for an extended period of time will be the biggest challenge.

Hopefully, in a few years we will all be around for the "Aged Beer" blog. I look forward to sharing it with you.

The 2007 Vintage of Bond

2011-03-09T17:34:00.000-08:00

A number of Los Angeles sommeliers and chefs were fortunate enough to be invited to Spago this afternoon to taste through the 2007 vintage of the Bond wines. Bond is the sister winery of Harlan Estate that specializes in terroir-driven, single-vineyard wines from Napa. Paul Roberts MS and Amanda Harlan were hosting the event, along with Wine Director (and good friend) Chris Miller of Spago.

These 2007's come across as anti-2007. That is, they aren't just flashy, jammy crowd-pleasers. They are deftly balanced with ripe fruit and lots of structure in some cases as well. More importantly, they incorporate savory notes and minerality not often found in many Napa wines. And as they sat in the glass, they continued to open and change.

Here is the snapshot recap:

Melbury 2007: Chocolate cherry cordials and graphite on the nose with crushed violets, anise and elegant perfume. Very generous fruit aromatically. On the palate, consistent cherry flavors mixed with currants, vibrant acidity and a red edge to the fruit that keeps the wine lifted. Blackberry seeds on the finish add astringency. Sandalwood and cinnamon layer in throughout.

Quella 2007: Black currant fruit on the nose with florality, blackberry and a soy-like savory edge. Blueberry, as well. On the palate, a silky texture with crushed flowers, earthen minerality and blue/black fruits to support. Long, savory finish with red licorice. A dark wine that also has a darker, lifting acidity.

St. Eden 2007: St. Eden has always been my favorite of these wines and this was no exception. On the nose, rich fruit and spices find impeccable balance together. Blue, red and black fruits all find harmony. Cedar and perfume with a green savory spice as well. On the palate, Dark cherry, chocolate, thyme, crisp acidity and firm, integrated tannins. This is a big wine that stays light on its feet and fulfills everything I want in a Napa Cab.

Vecina 2007: On first smell, it comes across as a little reductive and herbal. This blew off after some time in the glass. Lots of soy, salt and savory components with black currant and blackberry. On the palate, BIG tannins and more of the savory elements from the nose. Minerality, potpourri, anise. A silky textured wine with lots of structure.

Pluribus 2007: A tangy nose, almost reminding me of Syrah, Burgundian mushroom, graham cracker, florality with blue and black fruits. On the palate, ripe and rich fruit followed by powerful tannin. Espresso, eucalyptus and savory minerality. A real powerhouse in every sense of the word. Finishes long and savory.

Paul and Amanda also brought along two wines from the 2006 vintage to show a comparison of the vintage and how these wines come together with just a little time in the bottle:

Quella 2006: Meaty black fruit aromas, dusty spices, savory edge, florality, graphite, roasted mushroom. Tangy character. On the palate, blackberry flesh and seeds, roasted espresso beans, dark perfumey flavors. Finishes very long.

Vecina 2006: A consistent herbal tone that blew off, as in the 2007. Dark fruit aromas, smoke and charcoal. Very structured with savory notes, soft fruit and very firm tannin. Very dry. Black cherry, red licorice, rose petals. Tannic and in need of time still.

Paul grilled the chefs in the room on their opinions for food pairings. Wolfgang Puck threw out a few ideas for the Quella 2007 and even offered his thoughts on how to make such a heavy red work with fish. Paul recommended braised dishes and mushrooms with the St. Eden. And also mentioned that the Vecina has a tendency with all of its salinity to work well with tomato dishes.

This is always an amazing tasting and so interesting to see these very distinct vineyard sites. It's refreshing to think that there really are microclimates and some terroir in the Napa Valley. I will be looking forward to following the evolution of these wines in the coming years. They are certainly worthy of cellaring and tasting in ten to twenty years.

Annual Wine Date 2011

2011-03-07T13:44:00.000-08:00

Kara and I have an Annual Date with a bottle of wine. It started in my fledgling days of learning about wine. I bought a case of Lewis 'Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 from Woodland Hills Wine Company. It was the first wine I'd ever bought a full case of anything. We drank our first one on March 6th of 2006. I think it was coincidence (or maybe I planned it subconsciously), but we decided we would drink through the case on the same day every year for the following twelve years to see how a wine truly evolved over time. To date, this is still the only wine I've really checked in with this regularity.

Last year, the bottle we tried was losing its structure and the fruit was getting a little tired. I decided to sell off a handful of the bottles, knowing this wine wasn't going to make it the full twelve years. Next year will be our last bottle, unfortunately. AND fortunately...

Our neighbors, Chris and Cher, invited us over for homemade pizza and bread. Chris' former supervisor has a small bread-making company called "Well Bread in LA" that makes fantastic product which we sampled last night. The Country Bread was spectacular for homemade and as good (if not better) than any artisanal bread from the bakeries. Great sourdough-style tang under fresh whole wheat flour with the soft, light airy texture I always look for in bread. Some Grilled Chicken & Apple Sausages added to the mix with a handful of appetizers and we were ready for vino.

So - the Lewis 'Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 in the year 2011: The color on this was surprising as I don't remember it being so light. Nearly as light as some current release Pinot Noirs I've seen (and lighter than some others...). Very spicy oak-based aromas are pronounced on the nose with some fruit underlying. On the palate, light black and red currant, blackberry, and oak overshadowing all of it. Tannins are moderate, heading toward moderate minus with some acidity still hanging on. It's losing its fruit and vivacity at a rapid pace now, it seems, leaving mostly oak profile.

While servicable, this wine was definitely a disappointment. But older Lewis wines have consistently been disappointing for me. They're not really meant for aging, in my opinion. I think the joy of this winery is found with just a couple of years in the cellar. Mind you, there has been a slew of different winemaker's influence over the years, so a number of different cooks in the kitchen can have an effect. Also, this was not a profoundly great vintage, by most opinions, and I have not been wildly pleased with many of my aged 2001's at this point.

Kara wanted to go ahead and drink the last bottle last night. She liked it and, I think, was fearful of how it might show next year. So am I, personally. Rather than cut our annual date any shorter, I ran back to the house and grabbed the 2002 vintage of the same wine, which we had also not tried for about a year, coincidentally.

The 2002 Lewis 'Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon was showing a hundred times better than its older brother. The fruit was blue/black as opposed to red, with plenty of oak on it, but showing as fresh vanilla and mocha as opposed to dried, dusty baking spices. The texture was plush and alive, with integrated, but soft, tannin. This is definitely a more robust wine, as the vintage would suggest. Much sweeter and much more crowd-pleasing. The entire table was definitely in the 2002 camp. Not a surprise, though. The 2002 and 2003 vintages were my favorite from Lewis, in part due to the involvement of talented winemaker Kristof Anderson during those years.

All in all, we had a great time sharing our yearly tasting with our gracious hosts on their heated terrace. And a hearty thanks to "Well Bread in LA" for the amazing bread and pizza. With any luck, we'll be able to share this moment with our neighbors again next year.

I highly recommend this experience. Pick up an age-worthy wine and give it a go. It doesn't necessarily have to be the same date every year, but in the ballpark would be appropriate. Take some detailed notes on the wine each year and see how your comments change. It's a lot of fun. Mind you, over time our our tastes and preferences will change. But keep an objective eye open and be sure to comment on the same aspects of the wine each year: fruit, tannin, acid, overall impression, etc. I think it's a rewarding experience and I've really enjoyed taking this journey.

Maybach 'Materium' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

2011-03-04T12:23:00.000-08:00

Another chapter in the continuing saga of the wildly overpriced "California Cult Wine" fiasco! The more I keep opening these highly-scored and tragically expensive wines, the more I understand why people are less willing to spend more. Especially these days! Not that any of these are bad wines, but I can compose a list of wines that run under $50 that I would buy first.

So - the Maybach "Materium" Cabernet Sauvignon. You may not know the winery, so here is the lowdown, in a nutshell: In the continuous emergence of new cult wineries, Maybach reared its head in 2004 with famed winemaker Thomas Brown at its helm. The Maybach family was the same that invented the first Mercedes vehicles in the early 1900's. Like most who make their money in some other field, they turned to making wine to lose some of it. However, Robert Parker lavished the Maybachs with scores 95 and above for their first five vintages, including a near-perfect 99 pts in 2007, earning the winery a following.

Thomas Brown is a highly respected winemaker these days, with a number of projects under his belt. The most notable of these projects is quite possibly Fred Schrader's wines, rarely seen due to small production and lavish press from (you guessed it...) Robert Parker. With a vineyard in this location (just above Dalle Valle off the Sliverado Trail), one can only anticipate great things!

Okay - well 'Materium' is not as expensive as some other newcomers I may have spoken about in the past, but $110 is still not a drop in the bucket. I took a 3-bottle allocation of the 'Materium' in the 2005 vintage (after the 2004 earned some praise). It's been hibernating in the cellar ever since and I've been itching to open one as I keep watching all of this hype building around it. Last night, I checked some sites to see how it was drinking and, by all accounts, most were saying that it was fairly soft, despite what a certain critic established as a long-lived wine.

With a Prime NY and loaded bakers on the table, I finally dug into the 'Materium' 2005. It was, indeed, softer than I would have expected, bordering on what some would even call "sweet". The fruit is plenty lush, with black currant, blackberry and even a little high-toned raspberry edge. Underlying, the oak is fairly well-integrated, showing anise, chocolate, and baking spices. Not wildly complex, but it really feels a little over-the-top due to the lack of structure. Kara and I immediately note that it reminds us of some wines we've had recently at half and even 1/3 the price. Furthermore, it is absolutely nothing like Chateau Margaux, as one critic spouts in his review. If I were Paul Pontallier, I would sue...

My recommendation: drink 'em if you've got 'em! This wine doesn't seem to have enough tannin for the long haul, despite having fruit in spades. I could be wrong, but I'm not one to risk it. This drinks fine now, for its style, and isn't likely to show more complexity.

I took an allocation of the 2007 as well. I hope the 2005 was part of the learning curve for Thomas in this vineyard. I will look forward to tasting his most highly revered vintage in a couple of years. I hope it finds better balance in the bottle. If not, Winebid here I come!

Bill Harlan at Jar

2011-03-02T11:24:00.000-08:00

I was working on a complete overhaul to Jar's wine list when I received the notification that Bill Harlan was coming into Jar with a party of ten people that night. For those who may not know Bill, he is the owner of two very highly regarded wineries in Napa: Harlan Estate and Bond. Aside from the amazing press they receive, they also make some pretty spectacular wines and the style of California Cabernet that I love to drink. Unfortunately, the expense of these wines make them prohibitive to drink on a regular basis.

The group brought along a few bottles with them and picked up a couple of Napa Chardonnays from Jar's list. So, what does Bill Harlan drink? The line-up was as follows:

Lewis Cellars, Napa Chardonnay 2008
Pahlmeyer, Napa Chardonnay 2007
Dujac, 'Clos la Roche' 1985
Rouget, Vosne Romanee 'Cros Parantoux' 1996
Harlan Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 1993

As this blog is about Mr. Harlan's visit, I am skipping the Burgundies and providing a tasting note only for his 1993 bottling: On the nose, a meaty character that is immediately intriguing, as well as slightly baked fruits. A strong core of black cherry on the palate, with charcoal, graphite and black currant. Plush, but balanced texture and absolutely seamless in its construction. Finishes very long with dusty spices, anise and leather, as well as chalky tannin that builds. Not tiring on the palate at all and drinking perfectly. An excellent wine from a challenging vintage.

The group had an excellent time and left us to attend another dinner party. Two dinners back-to-back...? I love the way this group rolls!

In honor of Mr. Harlan's visit, I felt compelled to actually sit down and enjoy a bottle of his wine that evening. I had just added the 2006 Bond 'Matriarch' to Jar's list that afternoon and thought it would be a good time to test out a bottle. I've tasted through the full line of Bond's single vineyard wines from 2006 twice now, but never tried the blend of the "elegant leftovers" that make up Matriarch. So, with some delicious Mulberry Pizza on the table at midnight, we dug in.

Black fruits and smoke/charcoal on the nose, which is a little tight at the moment. The plush black fruits are there, but not as pronounced as they would like to be. Very structured on the palate, the fruits are balanced and ripe, but this is a wine that will be best with some time in the cellar. All of the components are here for the future: dark black cherry and currant, firm tannin, smokey charcoal, and balanced spicy oak. Very primary at the moment, but still delicious.

If you haven't experienced Mr. Harlan's wines, they are highly recommended by almost everyone I know. The Bond 'Matriarch' and Harlan 'Maiden' are second labels that are somewhat more affordable than their older brothers, but still at a premium pricepoint. The main wines are nothing less than super-premium and the best vintages are very hard to find. A bottle of the 1994 Harlan Estate sold for $2200 on Jar's list. Are they worth it? It's not my place to tell you, but it's definitely worth making up your own mind.

Vincent Auxey Duresses 2007

2011-02-28T11:10:00.000-08:00

A casual dinner at home, I opened a bottle of Jean-Michel Vincent's Auxey-Duresses 2007 for our Chicken Cordon Bleu. Simply decorated spaghetti noodles along with some roasted Brussels Sprouts. Seemed like a simple, classic French meal to me...

I bought this Burgundy a year ago for Jar and picked up a few for my personal cellar as well. I've always liked the vibrant acidity of these 2007's. With a year in hibernation, I figured it was about time to check back in with this old friend. And what better way to revisit than with a regional pairing of Cordon Bleu?

I was somewhat disappointed with the showing of the wine this go round. The fruit was in hiding, barely showing some green pear and a very strong lemon frame. Plenty of chalky and pithy aromas, though and a strong mineral component. This was not a bad wine, by any means, but seemed a little sleepy still and may want some more time in the cellar to really show off. I finished the last glass the following day and it was coming out of its shell a little but more.

As far as pairing goes: it didn't have much for the food to draw out, so it wasn't brilliant. Not to say White Burgundy wouldn't be a great pairing, but this wasn't the bottle on this particular day.

The Cordon Bleu was killer, though! I merge the best aspects of some recipes I've used over the years and it has never disappointed. I love this "sandwich" prep where it isn't rolled up, but rather just two pieces of chicken with goodies in between and then breaded to bind it. It takes a little skill and patience to keep it all together, but it's worth it!

Pliny the Younger at Father's Office

2011-02-26T14:11:00.000-08:00

My friend Anthony Anselmi, who is in my tasting group, passed the Master Sommelier exam this month. We celebrated his success at Lou on Vine the other night where someone revealed to me that Russian River Brewing Company's most elusive and rare beer, Pliny the Younger, was going to be poured at Father's Office in Culver City the coming Monday. I immediately began making plans to be there the moment the doors opened.

I was first introduced to Russian River Brewing Company by a Master Sommelier and friend, Melissa Monosoff, during our visit to Sonoma last summer. We cabbed it over during a very brief break in our schedule because there was absolutely no way I was going to miss the opportunity to experience these beers firsthand. They brew soem of the rarest and most sought after beers in the world. I had an amazing time at the brewery. We got the paddle sampler of all the beers they currently had available and each was pretty profound in their own right.

Flash forward to today: I hear that this elusive Pliny the Younger is being poured at Father's Office. Here's the hype: Pliny the Younger is brewed only once a year (in February) and released at the brewery where it sells out pretty much immediately. A handful of California accounts are permitted to buy a 5-gallon keg which also sells out immediately. Surly Goat's sold out in less than an hour this year. Only two accounts get a 15-gallon keg: Father's Office Santa Monica and Father's Office Culver City. Santa Monica had already poured theirs and it lasted into the second day.

I was determined to be there for the opening moments of Pliny the Younger's appearance at Father's Office. Kara and I headed down for a 4:30 arrival time, putting us barely in the first ten people in line. One of our co-drinkers was the first guy in line at Surly Goat the week prior. It was evident that this was a major event in the lives of beer drinkers in California. I was very excited to be a part of it and felt very much like I was going to a general admission concert. Before they opened the doors, there was a line running down the block.

When the doors opened, we immediately began our tab with a couple of glasses of Pliny the Younger. It's a Triple IPA and extravagantly hopped, so we knew it would thrash our palates for any subsequent beers, but we just wanted to make sure we got it. It was pretty amazing, particularly considering that it was making me like IPA, which I sometimes despise: lots of citrus rind, fresh garden aromas, a savory that I could only place as cumin, fresh-cut grass, balanced hoppiness and grapefruit citrus. Was it worth the wait and visit: YES!

Worth the visit? Well - also becasue they had about half of the other Russian River Brewery beers on tap as well. If Pliny the Younger hadn't been there, I still would've been happy since we never see these beers. And I had been dying for an opportunity to get Kara up to Russian River Brewing Company to experience these. Any chance to drink Pliny the Elder, which I have heard many Master Sommeliers state is their favorite beer in the world, is a great day in my book.

The 15-gallon keg of Pliny the Younger was gone in less than two hours. We had since moved on to all of the other Russian River Selections. We ordered some apps and the infamous Father's Office Burger (which was truly profound...). Here are my tasting notes on the Russian River Beers poured on that day:

Sanctification: Brewed with Brettanomyces. Tangy and sweet smell, like a Chinese sweet and sour. Woodsy funkiness. Especially tangy on the palate, so much so that it comes across as lemon and passion fruit. Very cool and interesting.

Redemption: A Belgian-style Blonde. Smells like I would imagine a savory doughnut to taste like. Yeast, flowers and fruit. Ortega taco shells from the market, clean and creamy mouthfeel.

Pliny the Elder: I'm pleases to say I enjoyed two full glasses of this and preferred it, in fact, to Pliny the Younger. Grass, smokey wood, florality, and a creamy mouthfeel. The attack of the fruit comes across as more sweet fruit than their other IPA's, balanced with exquisite hoppiness that shows citrus rind and very cool savory notes. This is super-complex but not overly tiring. My favorite of this flight.

Perdition: The Belgian Dubbel-style. Bread, malt, caramel, a little Brett-y, but lighter on the palate than the nose and color elude to. This is a dark beer that you could actually drink a lot of. A soft citrus tone underlying keeps this darker beer feeling fresh.

Blind Pig IPA: This has a very similar flavor profile to both Plinys, however, there is a dip in the mid-palate and it comes across as a shadow of its better siblings. The lighter intensity of the fruit makes the hoppiness more pronounced on the finish. It would be easier to drink a sixer of than the Plinys, but would it leave you want just one Pliny the Elder...?

Consecration: A sour ale aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels with currants. Kara really didn't like this one, but it seems she's not a sour beer fan. Lots of tangy, grapey funky aromas. Kind of like a theoretical mesh of Kool-Aid and beer, but in a good way! Imagine Sea Smoke Pinot (heavier, darker Pinot) put into The Fly pods and integrated. This one isn't for everyone, but I totally dig it for its unique character and execution.

They had about 3 more beers we didn't taste on this particular evening. We had to drive back to Sherman Oaks. But we will definitely be back. And just a quick note on the Father's Office Burger - yes! it's worth it! I have never had a burger come out so perfectly cooked to the desired temperature in my life. Spot on mid-rare and freakin' delicious! Highly recommended and especially with a Perdition or Pliny the Elder.

Keep your eyes open for these beers! Depending on how open-minded you are or what styles you like, you may love or hate any or all of them. But even when they go for something outside of your box, understand that they are incredibly well-crafted representations of those goals. Hit up the brewery or Father's Office. I think you'll find it worthwhile.

Mother...

2011-02-24T13:43:00.000-08:00

It felt like mere hours being home from Australia when mom showed up on our front doorstep to spend a few days. She had been visiting soem friends in San Diego and made the short trek up to LA to see her grandkids (our dachshunds) and party with us. I usually try to break out some fun and interesting wines for her while she's here.

The abridged version of her visit:

We grabbed some sushi from our local spot and brought it back to the house for lunch. I'm still living in a world of love for Australia so I broke out the Koonowla Riesling 2007 from Clare Valley that I picked up from K & L. This totally rocked their worlds and mostly because it was Australian. This is a perfect example of what the American consumer isn't aware that Australia can do well. The Riesling was super-crisp, high acid, showed petrol and citrus. It was perfect with the food. We sucked that down fairly quickly so I opened a Vocoret 'Foret' Chablis 2007 to move forward. I was not wildly impressed with this one, but it was good - a bit too green and a little light on fruit for my taste. It was relatively inexpensive, also at K & L.

The night continued on with a variety of red wines: Emeritus Pinot 2007, Araujo 'Altagracia' 2004 and Neal Cabernet 2004. The Emeritus, while I have liked it in the past, was showing off a little too much of the cola for me, but the Araujo was doing great and seems to still have a long life ahead. The Neal 2004 has generally been consistent and is probably my favorite vintage of this wine to date.

We dined at Lucques on another evening. I have been to Lucques a few times, but always for events hosted by wineries. This was my first experience during normal service and it was pretty solid. We bought a bottle of J. Lasalle 'Cachet d'Or' Brut Champagne from the list to start and moved into a bottle of 2000 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape from my cellar for the entrees. The Lasalle was perfect and showing well. Sometimes bubbles are so satisfying that you can actually shut your brain off and not have to analyze them. This was one of those times. And with its versatility, it went great with our salad and burratta.

The 2000 Beaucastel was good, but not my favorite experience with this Chateau. The Mourvedre was a little more obvious in this bottling and felt more like an inexpensive Bandol than a well-crafted Chateauneuf. The medicinal cherry and meatiness were present, with funky French earth notes, dusty tannin and decent structure. I liked this wine, but I'll hold my last bottle for awhile to see what happens down the road.

Our final dinner was at Peppone, which is one of my favorite restaurants in Los Angeles. You get raped on your Spaghetti and Meatballs, but the wines are cheaper than you can buy them for on the market, if you know what you're looking at. I bought a bottle of 1991 Chateau Montelena 'Estate' Cabernet from their list for $89. It's going for $120 minimum in the free world! Dave (my step-father) gave us a bottle of 2000 Gaja 'Sperss' to take with us. The Montelena was killer and still youthful! Dusty sage and eucalyptus notes over blackberry and cassis with spicy oak throughout. I'm really developing a taste for this winery and I wish I had bought more of it back when I was first getting into wine. The Gaja was, unfortunately, corked. Not badly, but enough that we noticed it and the staff seemed to appreciate us leaving it.

We plowed through a fair amount of bottles, as usual, and only a few of do I mention here. It's good to have this connection in wine with mom. She's always been there for me and it's good to be able to offer her some great juice when she comes around. I always look forward to the next time we'll be able to spend some time together.

Melbourne and Sydney, Australia

2011-02-22T12:49:00.001-08:00

While there wasn't much to speak of wine-wise during this leg of the trip, I would be remiss not to include it in the Australia recap. These couple of days were really more debaucherous and allowed us to cut loose a little bit after being on such good behavior for Wine Australia.

As soon as we were checked into the Hyatt, Russ, Jens and I walked over to Chinatown. It just happened to be Chinese New Year! We dropped into a cool wine shop and remarked how there is such a focus on Australian wines. Here in the US, we seem to tip our hats to the world equally, but there is definitely a more domestic-focused contingency there, it seems. We dropped into a local pub and slugged down a palate-cleansing ale before racing back to the Hyatt to get ready for dinner.

Dinner was held for us at the Press Club. Our hosts secured a private room where we dined with some winemakers and owners. We were all a little tired on this particular evening and more than a little run down. We were also so tired of 1) Duck 2) Lamb and 3) Cheese. We powered through the dinner and the wines poured for each course. The food was very good, but also very "fancy". There were some molecular gastronomy-type things going on in the dishes and, on occasion, there were just too many things going on in the dish. But overall, it was very good.

We retired from the dinner as early as was polite to go home and get some rest. We knew we were going to have a big day in Sydney when left to our own devices.

The next morning, we were headed for the airport and Sydney. A short flight later, we landed and were whisked off to the Shangri-La Hotel, overlooking the Darling Harbor. Our cab driver was very informative, showing us major sights and taking us for a quick spin by the Opera House before dropping us off. After a quick check-in, we grabbed a cab to take us to our last formal event of the trip.

We were treated to lunch by Robert Oatley Vineyards, a large winery that we have access to here in the US. The wines are solid and likely a little more of what you would expect from a large-scale Aussie winery. They produce a Rose, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot, Cab and Shiraz. We overlooked the Darling Harbor (from the other side of our hotel) and feasted on a variety of local seafood, selected by our sommelier for the wines. The Mud Crab was really delicious and an impressive presentation. And I was really jones-ing for some oysters!

When we left, I think we all felt like we had just been released from school for the summer. I wanted to fling some papers out of my backpack as I ran from the restaurant. We had decided we were going to take the "Manly Ferry" over to Manly Beach so we could see Sydney Harbor and also the beaches. It was a gorgeous ride across the harbor, despite Marie and I getting completely soaked at the front of the ferry.

Manly Beach was amazing! It completely reminded me of South Beach, but a heckuva lot smaller. We watched the ocean and the people for a bit, then ducked into a cool hotel for where I intended to buy the gang a round of shots and beers. Oddly enough, this place wouldn't serve shots or any liquor that didn't have a mixer in it. Russ and I quickly eyed the high-end Scotches and Cognacs behind the bar and wondered 1) Why they would carry them at all and 2) what horrific injustices had been dealt to those products since they could not be served up or neat. Tragic!

Eventually, I was able to buy the round of tequila and beer I had hoped. Right by the ferry dock, in fact! Which made the ride back to downtown Sydney much more entertaining. The sun had gone down at this point and we were treated to an even more magnificent view of the city.

The rest of the evening turned to pure debauchery. My plan to try to adjust back to Los Angeles time was to stay up most of the night and try to sleep on the plane. I had also promised the group that we would "tear Sydney up". We began stopping at a pub on our way back to the hotel where we enjoyed a round of Belgian beers. A quick jaunt back to the Shangri-La to freshen up and we were off to dinner. I can't remember the name of the place, but we ate at a Japanese sushi-type place. The food was pretty good. We were all just so happy to be eating fish and not meat for a change. Some sake and Riesling rounded out the experience.

I grabbed a double espresso and the best cappuccino eclair I've ever had in my life from a little store close by and was fueled to stay awake for the long haul. Our server sent us to a night club called Ivy which was a little too "trendy" for us. We wound up at a place called Establishment. We stayed there doing shots of Maker's Mark and drinking beer until 3am. Dawn and I tore up the dance floor most of the time while Jens held down the bar. Russ and Marie had long since petered out.

The next morning was rough. I allowed myself about three hours of sleep before I woke up and went for a run on the treadmill (I was pretty much still trashed). We got our things together and made it to the airport. I was dumbfounded that they were pouring liquor and wine samples in the Duty Free area. And stuff like Remy XO, Johnnie Walker Gold, Moet & Chandon Rose! We did some gift shopping and had a quick bite before settling in at the gate.

The most important purchase I made was my mini-bags of Smith's Lamb and Mint-flavored potato chips to bring home. I know I've only mentioned potato chips a couple of times, but we powered through about 12 bags of different chips on our road trip: Sweet Chili Sauce and Sour Cream, BBQ Ribs, Lamb and Mint, Crispy Bacon, Morrocan-Spiced Chicken and Lemon, Honey Soy Chicken, Ketchup, etc. Lamb and Mint were profound, followed by BBQ Ribs and the Chicken flavors. I can't believe we can't get these flavors here...

Well - there you have it! The Victoria wine experience as provided by Wine Australia. This state, country and continent were never really on my radar for places I was dying to travel to, but after this amazing journey, I am strongly considering a return in the coming years. Even if just for potato chips and to drink those amazing Yarra Chardonnays again.

Macedon Ranges & Sunbury, Australia

2011-02-21T14:19:00.000-08:00

Despite a fairly raucous night at the Emeu Inn, I managed to get up early enough to squeeze in a run through Heathcote in the morning. Oddly enough, I "ran" into one of the winemakers from dinner the night before. Small town, I guess. A quick homemade croissant later, we were on the road again to the Macedon Ranges.

We arrived at Bindi a little more than an hour later. As we pulled in past the stone wall announcing the winery, we immediately saw a colony of kangaroos bouncing around in the vineyard. Before the car had stopped, I had the door open and was leaping out to scale the wire fence and chase them down for pictures. Jens was quickly right behind me. Tragically, this was the only rainy day we had and our shoes were soaked after this Roo Hunt. It was amazing, though. There had to be thirty or more of them!

We eventually had chased them all too far away so we headed up to the winery to meet Michael Dhillon, owner and winemaker for Bindi. No sooner did we say hello than I saw another group of kangas that I bounded off through the vines to hunt, leaving Michael during his introduction to the winery. Many pictures later and finally satiated with my Kanga experience, I returned to the group with Dawn (who tagged along this time) to learn about Bindi.

We hiked up into the upper parts of the vineyard some (still surrounded by kangaroos) with Michael so we could see the majority of the vineyard sprawling below. The vineyard is essentially broken into three parts and planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Michael is very interested in the quartz makeup of the soil and seems to be separating some of these vines and areas within the main vineyard breakdown as well. A true believer in the ground and "terroir", as well as vineyard expression, these wines truly represent their sense of place and marked one of the best visits we had on the trip for wine quality.

We did a little barrel tasting of some of the upcoming Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, sampling different block components of the wines. They were nothing short of extraordinary and I'm pretty sure none of us were spitting, even at 10:30 am. I didn't take individual notes since we were moving fairly quickly through the barrel room, but I can unequivocally say that any bottle of Bindi that you pick up will not be a disappointment.

A real highlight of the visit was when Michael broke out a couple of bottled wines: the 2009 'Block 5' Pinot Noir and the 2005 'Original Vineyard' Pinot Noir. The 2005 was absolutely stunning! Burgundian mushroom aromas with earth, herbs, cola, vibrant red fruits and such depth. If I could get this bottle in the States, I might not ever drink another Pinot Noir. It's unlikely you can find this, but I know there was once some imported to some saavy places and sommeliers. You will not be sorry if you can get your hands on one.

Departing from Bindi, we made our way to Curly Flat, another Chardonnay and Pinot Noir producer. Despite a road that had been washed out from the massive rains striking Australia, we made our way on foot up to the winery where we were greeted with a glass of Pinot Grigio 2006 for our tour of the winery. While there is a rustic feel to the winery, there is also a sense of modernity to the technology and equipment. I love that there is a big influence on music as well. Adjacent to the table where we sat for lunch and tasting, there was a jam session setup, complete with drum kit and microphones.

The wines of Curly Flat were good, but fell a little in the shadow of Bindi. Personally, I found them to be a little too New World-y in style, with a heavier feel of oak, particularly on their 2008 Chardonnay which was rife with vanilla and spice over lemon and green pear. Of the four Pinot Noirs that we tasted, I liked the 2007 Curly Flat Pinot Noir best: slightly baked red fruits, mushroom and a touch of Burgundian earthen character, plushly textured with soft tannin and vibrant acidity; bottled unfiltered.

On my way out, the staff told me that I look like George Clooney. I don't know...

The last visit of the day was Craiglee. THIS was an experience. We arrived to find it was sheep shearing day. Pat Carmody, owner and winemaker, is more farmer than typical winemaker and appears to consider his wines as much a product of his land as anything else. We sat at a long wooden table, covered in spider webs (including the wine bottles opened maybe the day prior) and tasted an incredible amount of bottles from his cellar, back to 1995. Pat opened verticals of Shiraz, Cabernet and Chardonnay and poured them blind. The highlight of this tasting was the 1996 Craiglee Chardonnay that we all guessed to be perhaps as old as five to ten years. It was incredibly youthful and vibrant - hard to believe it was going on fifteen years. I also had the pleasure of observing a spider ensnare a fly in its web and then wrap it up before feasting on its blood - cool! Overall, this visit was more of an oddity and the wines were interesting, but less than consistent or amazing.

Wrapping up our excursion in wine country proper, we headed back into downtown Melbourne to check into the Grand Hyatt. We had to say goodbye to our amazing driver, tour guide and new friend: Brian Ingleson. I wish I could say that I was sad to be heading back into the city, but I was definitely growing tired of barrel rooms and ready for a little Aussie culture. And it was a refreshing feeling to know there would be no spiders in my room when I went to sleep.

Heathcote, Australia

2011-02-17T18:34:00.000-08:00

After the lengthy road trip from Tahbilk, we finally arrived at Shelmerdine winery, our first stop in Heathcote. Well, that's not entirely true... Our driver, Brian, allowed us a pit stop at a fun local pub to grab a palate-cleansing ale before we dove into more wine. A meager five minutes later, we were back in the car and around the corner at Shelmerdine.

The Shelmerdine visit was less than extraordinary. We were seated at the tasting bar and poured the line of their current releases. The assosciate pouring for us was knowledgable, but unable to answer any of our geeky or logistical questions about the wines. We tasted a servicable and simple 2010 Riesling, a horrific 2009 Viognier, the tightly wound 2007 Cabernet, and a decent 2007 Shiraz. The best wine of the flight was poured last: the 2007 "Merindoc" Shiraz which was an odd one and probably not for everyone, but had some interesting meaty characteristics that reminded of being at a summer BBQ: roasted ribs, bbq sauce, pickle juice, black pepper, and black fruits with crushed red fruits layered in. This was also very pricey for what it delivered.

I'm sad to say that the best part of the visit to Shelmerdine, and actually one of the highlights of the entire trip, was the espresso we had there. I can't believe I'm still talking about this coffee. It was the perfect balance of bitterness, fruity, ashy, roasted, et al. And, man, did it crack us out for the rest of the day! If you ever visit this winery, the espresso is a MUST HAVE!

We quickly made our way down the road to a store frontage for Heathcote Estate wines where we met Tom Carlson, who I had recently met in Los Angeles for the Landmark Australia tasting. Tom is the winemaker for a few labels: the aforementioned Heathcote Estate, Cooralook (a sort of second label) and Yabby Lake. He poured us a sampling of wines from all three labels. Of the six wines he poured, the wine of the flight (and a memorable one from the trip) was the Heathcote Estate Shiraz 2008. It was decidedly new world Syrah, but such a lovely snapshot of it: espresso-rubbed meats, savory green herbs, eucalyptus, smokey bacon, ripe blue/black fruits. And the most wonderful part about this wine is that it's one of the few wines we tasted on the entire trip that will actually be available in the U.S. At the moment, you're more likely to find the 2005 and 2006, but this 2008 will be worth seeking out. I would also be ashamed not to mention the 2006 Heathcote Estate Grenache which was also surprisingly good.

Our last visit of the day was one we had all been looking forward to: Jasper Hill. Jasper Hill has something of a cult following in Australia and a bit here in the States. They rarely have wine to sell because they sell out almost immediately when they release over there. Ron Laughton is the owner and winemaker, along with his daughter. We began with his 2010 Riesling which smelled a bit like Lillet Blanc and Orangecello, but tasted like a fruity, hopped beer. I was not particularly a fan of this style. We began the reds with the 2009 'Cornella's Vineyard' Grenache: aromas of black truffle and blue cheese, fruity but also austere, eucalyptus and raspberry/strawberry - this was very young but wildly intriguing. Next, the 2009 'Georgia's Paddock' Shiraz showed cumin, florality, eucalyptus, balanced blue and red fruits, and loads of structure that suggest long-term aging will be necessary. The 'Occum's Razor' Shiraz 2009 is made by Ron's daughter: it fell slightly more into the camp of warm-weather Aussie Shiraz and not nearly as complex as the Jasper Hill wines, but still good and especially at half the price. Lastly, Ron poured us the Shiraz/Cabernet Franc 'Emily's Paddock' 2009, which was my favorite wine of the flight: Very floral overtones, violets, eucalyptus, crisp acidity and massively structured with more pepper, chalk, tobacco and licorice on the palate. Overall, these are powerhouse wines that need time, but I think they will be worth the time spent.

After what was probably our busiest day of tasting, we checked into our rooms at the Emeu Inn where a dinner with about ten wineries and winemakers was being held for us in what was essentially both their lobby and dining room. It was a casual dinner with all the wines being passed around so I didn't manage any formal notes while talking with the winemakers. However, there were some interesting wines in the mix, including a couple of Sangioveses and roses.

I sprung for a round of Fernet Branca to round out the dinner. This was one of two places that I saw it and I couldn't resist. The Emeu Inn is adorable and I'd highly recommend it if you're in the Heathcote area. It's run by a very sweet woman from New York and her husband, who is the chef.

All said and done, the wines from Heathcote were coming closer to expected Australian style for me. Especially having begun with super-cool climate regions, these started to stand out as more forward. But the right producers are making some terrific wines and certainly wines that I wouldn't mind having on my table for dinner. The real testamant is this: the day I got back to the States, I hunted down some older Jasper Hill wines to taste and put in the cellar. I'll let you know how they are!

Cheers!

International Syrah Day!

2011-02-16T18:33:00.000-08:00

Just a quick break from the Australia recap to celebrate (in REAL time) International Syrah Day. Syrah is quite possibly my absolute favorite vinifera grape. I love the complexity that it has inherently and it can remain somewhat elegant like Pinot Noir if you don't extract the hell out of it. I like to think that my favorite Syrahs are cooler climate US examples, but some of the Aussies we tried give them a run for their money. And, of course, the great Northern Rhones with some age on them are quite often profound.

What am I drinking today? I sort of haphazardly popped the cork on a Tardieu-Laurent "Coteaux Cuvee" Cornas 2001. I picked one of these up in a wine store a couple of years ago and figured this was the perfect moment to give her a shot. Also, it happens to be the oldest of my Northern Rhones here at the house. I had the pleasure of tasting the full line-up of the 2006's from this producer last year. The wines were quite good.

This 2001 is quite savory on the nose: fresh green herbs, charred wood, some Bordeuax-like horse blanket, smoke, blueberry compote, black cherry. On the palate, the wine is still holding some firm structure and has a surprising acidity that comes across as tart blackberry. The earth tones are layered with the fruit, impeccably balanced and dying for some food. The finish on this bad boy is pretty impressive as well, leaning into some olive notes. I'm actually quite surprised at how well this wine is aging and how good it is, particularly for the low price of $30. I wish I had bought more than just one bottle...

I hope you are enjoying a delicious bottle of Syrah today as well!

Ngambie Lakes, Australia: Tahbilk

2011-02-15T17:57:00.000-08:00

Wrapping up the lengthy drive from Rutherglen, we finally pulled into Tahbilk in Ngambie Lakes. Not that I've been into New Orleans proper or the bayou, but this is what I imagine it would look like. Lots of swampy area with moss-ridden trees, snake-infested streams and Friday the 13th-like forest. And stuck in the middle of all that is the Tahbilk winery, where it was been for 150 years.

We strolled through the original cellar, as well as the "New Cellar", constructed in 1870. There is such an amazing amount of history in these brick-laid walls and the atmosphere transports you immediately back to days-gone-by when winemaking was much simpler. Old winemaking equipment is laid out for viewing, as well as old fermenters and barrels, some still in use today.

After the tour, we sat down to the Tahbilk line-up. We tasted multiple vintages of their Marsanne, including a 2003 that was showing some interesting character: marzipan, petrol, honeysuckle, peach pit, a toasty finish with fresh acidity and limey minerality. Their Viognier was tasty, but some felt it was muddled with their addition of some Sauvignon Blanc. I personally liked the balance the SB added by making the Viognier less fat.

On to reds, we tried a 2006 and 1999 of their entry-level Shiraz. Neither was particularly exciting, and the 1999 was showing some highly oxidative character that made it feel especially tired. Same goes for the entry-level Cabernets: we were poured the 2006 and the 1998. The 2006 Cabernet was solid, with rich blackberry (including seeds), currant, dried spices, anise and monster tannins. The 1998 was unfortunately corked.

The flagship wines were more exciting. The "1860 Vines" Shiraz comes from a vineyard unaffected by phylloxera that was planted (as you might guess...) in 1860. This wine showed blue/black fruits, red licorice, big oak influence that maintained balance, white pepper, and building tannins. It would be interesting to see this wine with some age, but given the showing of the older reds they poured us, I would be weary to risk it. We also tried the "ESP" line of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Shiraz was not wildly complex and firmly structured with velvety tannin. However, the wine of the flight seemed to be the Cabernet Sauvignon, with a meaty and tangy character that reminded me of good salumi. Sweet and savory spices, ripe fruit, heavy oak influence that shows a pervading licorice note. This finished fairly long as well.

After the tasting, we visited the restaurant onsite for a little lunch: Pumpkin Pizza and Farro Risotto. We brought along some of the wines from the tasting to taste with the food. I was particularly fond of the Marsanne with the pizza. And the ESP Cabernet continued to improve with both the additional air and the food.

I'd highly recommend a visit to this winery, should you find yourself in the area. Not even as much for the profundity of the wines as much as the history of this facility. It seems rare these days to find a winery steeped in such a rich past, and ironically enough considered part of the "new world".

We quickly hopped back in the car and began our journey to Heathcote to continue the day. Despite having just eaten lunch, I popped another bag of potato chips, in an ongoing tour of Australian junk food. We tooled down the highway, listening to Billy Joel from my laptop and taking in the scenery. I think this was the point that we finally felt like we had settled into the trip.

Rutherglen, Australia

2011-02-13T12:09:00.000-08:00

Our trip through Rutherglen began with and consisted primarily of our visit to Chambers Rosewood winery. The fortified dessert wine producers put together an amazing tasting of their stickies for us. Prepared at each seat was a flight of 27 dessert wines. This was a very challenging, but very rewarding tasting. The wines were ordered by style from left to right, and by producer from top to bottom. This offered an opportunity to experience the style of the wine, or alternately, the house style.

Sitting down to a large flight of dessert wines can be very daunting. Higher alcohol levels and incredible amounts of residual sugar can fatigue the palate pretty quickly. But these wines Australian fortifieds are as complex as any wines in the world. Before this trip, if you'd asked me what the best thing coming out of Australia was, I'd have been inclined to answer "dessert wines". For me, this was one of the best tastings of the trip.

I took my most dilligent notes on these wines, which would be fairly boring to read, so here are the highlights:

As a house, overall, I found a new love for Campbell's. In comparison to most of the other producers, their style remained drier and more savory. Still sweet on attack, the wines consistently found balance on the finish. Their Grand Muscat was stellar, offering freshness on entry with tangerine and cherry flavors. However, the thrill is on the finish where all of the "goodies" show: nuts, toffee, molasses, chocolate. Their Rare Muscat was no slouch, coming across as drier, with a darker molasses tone and heavier malt. For the money, the Grand Muscat is spectacular.

Chamber's Rosewood wines were also a close second, but presented as a bit sweeter overall, while still showing tremendous complexity. Their Grand Muscat may well have been my wine of the flight. It shows all the layers and complexity I love in these wines, perfectly wrapped in a sweetly, savory, and nuanced package. Dried cane syrup, coffee, walnuts, bitter chocolate, fresh and dried fruits - it's all in here.

Other producers shown were: Jones, All Saint's, Morris, Pfeiffer and Rutherglen Estate. Rutherglen Estate's Muscat was a real find as well. Dry coffee, cocoa, caramel, creme brulee sugar, fresh cherry and apricot. A super-value at this pricepoint. Overall, I found the wines of Pfeiffer to be a bit offputting. There was a strange VA (nail polish remover) wave coming off the wines consistently. Their Rare Muscat was the best of their wines, but paled in comparison to the other houses in that style.

We took a quick jaunt out into the vineyard to taste some of the grapes and a walk through the barrel rooms. There were some amazing, old barrels to look at and we managed to sneak a taste of some wine from one of them.

Following the tasting, the boys headed over to a local pub for a palate-cleansing ale before dinner. We were shocked to hear that they would be closing up shop at 7pm. Not a happening place in Rutherglen, it seems...

Dinner was held at All Saint's winery, which looked very much like a medieval castle. We were greeted with sparkling wines (including Shiraz), as well as some still whites from the area. After a few speeches and thanks, we made our way into the barrel room where a table was set for dinner. It appears that I left or lost my tasting notes from this dinner, but I can say that the still reds in this region come closer in style to those from the Barossa that we are used to here in the States (with exceptions, of course). Some older wines were poured that seemed tired, but younger wines with more controlled alcohols were very good.

I managed to get my first exercise in the next morning with a jog through Rutherglen and its surrounding countryside. When we finally got the group together, we managed a stop at Parker's Pies. Dawn bought a couple of Kangaroo Meat Pies for us to try. My first experience with kangaroo meat, it probably wasn't the best example. While tender, it mostly tasted of the gravy it was cooked in and had a weird gelatinous jelly on its exterior that was off-putting. I also picked up their "Signature Meat Pie" which was pretty awesome - especially for breakfast!

We pulled out of Rutherglen fairly early and settled in for a long car ride to Ngambie Lakes. Eyes always peeled for the elusive kangaroo and koala, we took in the scenery of the Victorian landscape.

Beechworth, Australia: Giaconda & Castagna

2011-02-11T12:04:00.000-08:00

We had the amazing pleasure of visiting Giaconda first thing as we arrived in Beechworth. These are wines that have something of a cult status in Australia and the rest of the world. Impeccably balanced Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz made in a style that nods to the New World, but shows incredible balance and depth. These are very special wines, but also very pricey.

Rick Kinzbrunner greeted us with the story of Giaconda: born in the mid-1980’s with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and introducing Shiraz in 1999. Even more exciting, he’s got a really good Nebbiolo in barrel at the moment that’s “getting better every day”. He’s recently blasted a mine/cellar into the ground on the property that holds his personal collection as well as a library of Giaconda wines. We spent a good amount of time down there barrel tasting, noting that the atmosphere was a theoretical blend of Walt Disney’s Pirates of the Carribean and Haunted Mansion rides.

Rick invited us into his home for lunch where he served some local cheeses, roasted trout, prosciutto, country bread and salad. Moving into his bottled wines, we tasted his recent vintages of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and his 2005 Warner Vineyard Shiraz, which was the wine of the tasting for me. It was dry, earthy, held good fruit, acid and structure. Russ and I agreed that this bottle will best be drunk close to ten years from now. It was an amazing visit and we left with a little more love for Giaconda.

A few short minutes away we stopped at Castagna. Julian Castagna greeted us at the door. An eccentric man, to put it mildly, he explained that winemaking was about just letting things happen. He produces little more than 1000 cases in great years and perhaps under 400 in bad years, if at all. He was coming to terms with the notion that he may lose this vintage entirely if it rains for three days this coming week, as is predicted. Despite his unusual personality, his wines were very good. About 60% of it is sold to his mailing list with a small amount offered to a select few restaurants here in Australia. I would be highly surprised if any could be found in the States. They are worth tasting if the opportunity presents itself. Unfortunately, the “crus”, as Julian calls his best three wines, are in need of age and I fear that most of the bottles produced will never see the time they need.

Despite the contrasting visits and differing personalities of these two wineries, it was an exciting and educational visit to Beechwood. This brief visit reminds me how much wine is about its story and how the experience you have at a winery can shape your opinion of a wine. I would buy Giaconda to support the soft-spoken, humble Rick Kinzbrunner before I would add the Castagna wines to my list. All that aside, the most important note here is that these wines, while perhaps richer than their counterparts down south, are still world class and worthy of adding to your Rolodex.

Yarra Valley and Strathbogie Ranges, Australia

2011-02-09T12:44:00.000-08:00

Our day began with a stop at De Bortoli, or “DeBort’s”, as our guide Brian calls it. Brian tells us that shortening names is a national pastime in Australia as he switches on the “air con” in the van after finishing our “brekky” (breakfast). As we arrive, we are again in awe of another amazing view of the Yarra.

Steve Weber hosted our tasting in a private room and showed us a truly profound flight of Chardonnays from the Yarra. There were quite a few standouts in what will likely be my favorite flight from the trip. The Oakridge Chardonnay 2009 was a deadringer for Chablis with more mineral than fruit, crisp acids and great balance. The 2007 Yering Station ‘Willowlake’ Chardonnay offered cheese-like aromas, truffle tones, oyster shell and lots of citrus. Mayer’s ‘Bloody Hill’ Chardonnay 2008 was an amazing crossover wine for typical Chard drinkers to head to Burgundy: typical apple/pear flavors with mushroom, mineral and crisp acidity. The PHI Chardonnay 2008 was a little more in the box with white peach, baked apples and pears doused in Meyer lemon and orange juice, toasted oak and that pervading minerality.

For fun, Steve pulled some De Bortoli wines for us to taste: a 2010 Pinot Gris, their Reserve Riesling 2010 which was quite delicious, and an Edelzwicker 2010 which Jens was particularly enamored with. These were all very interesting and a great look at the potential this region has for amazing white wines. I’m definitely going to be seeking out some of these Chardonnays for my personal cellar.

We headed over to Yering Station. To precursor, I think that after we’d had so much Pinot at the beginning of our trip and such an amazing flight of white wines, we were not so much into this flight. Also, the facility was a little warm which made the wines show a little too much alcohol. We tore through about ten Pinot Noirs from the 2008 vintage and five barrel samples from 2010. None of the wines were particularly standouts, but it looks that the 2010 vintage will be warmer and riper in this region. We enjoyed a terrific lunch of duck breast and duck foie with pistachio sauce as well.

The most exciting part of our visit, for me, was watching the bottling line for their sparkling wine, which I had never had the opportunity to see. It’s fascinating that such a complicated process can occur in such a short bottling line. From the freezing of the yeast and removal, the dosage, to corking. Fascinating.

We headed out to the Strathbogie Ranges and visited Plunket Fowles with Sam Plunkett. This winery took a bit more of a New World approach to its winemaking. I don’t personally approve of this winemaking style when taken to this extent. He had a reverse osmosis filter, wood chips, bags of acid for adding to the wines, and some kind of plastic containers he was aging wine in instead of barrels. In my opinion, this is taking the “winemaking” a little too far. When you tamper this much with wine, how can you really taste the vineyard?

We stayed at the Euroa Butter Factory that evening, a real butter factory converted to accommodations. Sam joined us for dinner at a local restaurant that reminded me of dining in the American South. I had a marvelous Murphy’s Stout Meat Pie in Guiness sauce. Russ brought a 1999 Ferraton ‘Le Meal’ Hermitage that we enjoyed tremendously.

Bellies full, we returned to our rooms where I met my roommate, who I affectionately named Hunterwasser. Thank God Jens used to play hockey. He used a coat hanger to whack him right into our bag of Lamb & Mint-flavored potato chips so we could transport him outside to enjoy his evening buffet of bugs. I, for one, would be happy not to wake up to find him sitting on my face...

Yarra Valley, Australia: Great Steps/Innocent Bystander

2011-02-07T14:03:00.000-08:00

We began our tour of the Yarra Valley at Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander. Many of us knew these wines already from their availability in the US. I have carried Innocent Bystander’s Moscato at Jar, which is a delicious off-dry rose sparkler. We were ready for some entertainment after the drive up from the Mornington.

The Giant Steps facility is now one of my favorite places in the world. If it were located somewhere in Los Angeles, I think I’d be there three times a week. Not only is it a complete winemaking facility, but it’s also a brewery, a bakery, a fromagerie, wine shop, and restaurant. Talk about one-stop shopping! After seeing their cheese-aging room, I immediately asked if they were thinking about making some prosciutto. “We’re working on it,” was the reply.

After a brief tour of the facility, we tasted some wines from across the Yarra with Steve, the winemaker, and Phil, the owner. Overall, these wines were completely the opposite of what you might expect from Australia Shiraz and Cabernet. Actually, some winemakers are labeling their Shiraz as Syrah to draw up notions of the Northern Rhone and Steve suggests that it may be a movement in Australia to use the name alternately if your style is more old world. The two standouts in this tasting for me were the Oakridge Syrah 2008 and the Giant Steps ‘Harry’s Monster’ 2008 which is a Bordeaux-blend. The Oakridge was everything that I love about Syrah: moderate body with meatiness, red and blue fruits, white pepper, hints of smoke and a long finish. ‘Harry’s Monster’ was as the name suggests: ripe, but dry black fruits, firm structure and acidity with florality, underbrush, and balanced oak. ‘Harry’s Monster’ will want some time in a cellar and will be fun to check in with five to ten years down the road.

Phil then drove us up to his vineyard. This is one of the most breathtaking views I’ve had the pleasure of seeing in Australia. It’s a magical piece of land that you really must see to appreciate. Phil gave each of us our own half bottle of Moscato 2010 to enjoy as we looked around which we drank from the bottle like a beer. Truly a great experience!

We enjoyed dinner back at Giant Steps, which was wonderful. It was the first time I’ve had Kingfish since I was a little kid at my grandparents. Although, my grandparents cornmeal battered it and fried the hell out of it in Crisco, while Great Steps was slightly lighter-handed with a sashimi preparation and a delicate Miso sauce. The pizzas were fresh and delicious, and the Iberican ham was nothing short of spectacular. As I said, I’d eat here regularly if it wasn’t a full twenty-four hours travel away from my home.

We ended the night back at the hotel with a bottle of Coldstream Pinot 2008. It was a little too heavy and Sea Smoke-y for my taste. We sat under zillions of stars, watching satellites pass over head, catching the occasional bat fly by, and Jens was teaching me some German. It was an amazing day and I think we all finally felt like the trip had truly begun.

Mornington Peninsula, Australia

2011-02-05T14:52:00.000-08:00

One of the great benefits of working in the wine world is the luxury of being invited to many exclusive events that occur around the world. I was fortunate enough to attend the two-and-a half day Pinot Celebration held in the Morning Peninsula of Victoria, Australia. After the lengthy flight over from the States and into Melbourne, my co-travellers and I were shuttled down to the Cape Schank Resort where the event would occur.

Travelling with me were two wine buyers from Seattle, Dawn and Jens, as well as some local friends from Pasadena, Russ and Marie. With a little downtime after arriving and before our first event, we sampled some local Victorian beers in the lounge. I then quickly decided to take a hike down to the ocean, despite the fact there was no direct path there. After an hour of trudging through underbrush, I made it to the water, only to get completely lost in the woods on the way back. Eventually coming up on a paved road and barely making it home in time to catch the bus to dinner, I was ready to dive into some wine.

Our first evening was spent at Ten Minutes by Tractor with Kate and Rick. They were kind enough to host us for dinner at the winery restaurant. I did not take detailed notes on these wines as it was an informal event, but I can tell you that this is a winery to be watched, should the wines ever make it out of Australia. They own three vineyards in the area (which are ten minutes apart by tractor…) and bottle Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from them. I noticed a Pinot Gris on an order sheet as well, but it was sold out and not poured. These wines are controlled, elegant and feature wonderful acidity and cool climate character one wouldn’t expect to see in Australia. In addition, they poured some wines from Moorooduc, where Rick also makes wine. I actually preferred the Moorooduc wines overall to the Ten X wines as they were a little more catered to the California palate with more prevalent fruit. I would also be remiss not to mention that the food was quite good here as well.

Getting up bright and early the next morning, we entered the Cape Schank Resort banquet room where we would be spending the next two days. To be quite frank, this was a challenging way to start our first trip to Australia. Being locked in a banquet room on a resort for two days straight was slightly frustrating, but ultimately, a good way to prime the palate for the wines and places we would be experiencing over the following days.

Sparing you the play-by-play, the Pinot Celebration was a series of seminars, hosted by Burghound Allen Meadows and Ben Edwards. The seminars included flights of Mornington Peninsula Pinots by vintage, in context with other growing regions in Australia, wines with some bottle age, as well as in context with Pinots from around the world. The wines were generally poured blind. In addition, two very prominent Burgundy producers were in attendance to show flights of their wines as well. Christian Serafin and Etienne de Montille were flown in to provide words of wisdom and commentary on the up and coming region of Mornington Peninsula with 1400 years of growing experience under their belts in Burgundy.

On the whole, the Pinot Noirs of the Mornington Peninsula ARE world class. Light in body, nervy acidity, slightly herbaceous and all set on a frame of clean red fruits. They appear to have some potential for aging, although there are no examples as of yet since it is a budding region with no history. There is actually minerality in these wines, which is generally an unexpected trait from the new world.

There is a terrific sense of community down on the Peninsula (as it is locally put). Promoting the region is of more importance than focusing on the competitive end of things. Wines from outside of Mornington Peninsula, and Australia, are few and far between.

This focus on their own wines also works to a fault. Some of the winemakers and owners were violently harsh on wines from other regions. In particular, Julian Alcorso from Tasmania commented that he would rather dump 100 cases of the Faively Latricieres Chambertin 2004 Grand Cru down the drain than have to drink it, due to some Brettanomyces. This opened a heated debate about Brett and, ultimately, revealed a case of “frame error” present in the Australian palate. Some of the vocal Aussies eluded that heavy amounts of oak, as used by many in California, and cases of Brett, noticed sometimes in France, were unacceptable and made for awful wines. One writer went so far as to say the Faively would be best served with a “cherry and feces pie”.

Thankfully, Etienne de Montille spoke during our final seminar and brought everything back into perspective. With great eloquence, he encouraged growers to focus on their vineyards and make the best wine they can possibly make. “I want the right to be wrong”, he said, in regards to experimentation. He is a profoundly interesting personality and the wines were, obviously, top notch.

The pervading message that kept ringing true to me was one spoken by Allen Meadows. “What does your vineyard have to say?”, he asked. It’s a very interesting idea that kept recurring. Does your wine taste of your place or of your own hand? I hazard to say that in California, we are very self-focused and our tendency to make ourselves known may sometimes work against the sense of place. In that way, the Mornington Peninsula winemakers have got it right. They are very focused on their vineyards and allowing them to shine. I hope they continue moving forward in this fashion and do not fall prey to the critical influence as their neighbors did in South Australia.

Petrolo Wines at Tavern

2011-01-21T12:25:00.000-08:00

I had lunch today at Tavern in Los Angeles with Luca Sanjust, owner of Petrolo winery in Tuscany. He was showcasing the pre-releases of his 2008 Torrione and Galatrona, in addition to some current and library wines. Having only tasted one or two of his wines in the past, I jumped at the opportunity.

The lunch began with some Ostertag Sylvaner (I didn't catch the vintage...) just to wet the whistle and prime the palate. We quickly moved into the 2007 and 2008 Torrione, which is predominantly Sangiovese. Luca's father was originally a Chianti producer, but they decided to ride the Super-Tuscan wave at Petrolo. The Torrione, while pricey for a Sangiovese, is actually still quite a good value for itself. Especially when considered against wines like Tignanello. The 2007 was firmly structured and seems to be built for the long haul. The 2008 is drinking better today and likely will over the coming years while the '07 comes into its own.

We moved on to the 2008 Galatrona which is 100% Merlot. They planted this Merlot back when it was trendy. I wonder if they regret the decision now... Regardless, the wine is nothing short of wonderful. We followed that with the 2005 and 2006 vintages. I must say that, despite critical reviews, I preferred the 2005. It's showing more complexity and aroma, more generous fruit and, all-in-all, seems the better wine of the three for drinking tonight. The 2006 is in need of some serious time and the 2008 is, obviously, still very primary, but looks to be one that will be drinkable fairly early as well.

These wines are fairly pricey for what they are, if you consider that they are just IGT wines. However, they exemplify all the character of Tuscan wines (which I believe is most important to Luca) and compete in a world format as well. If you happen to find an extra hund-y laying around, spring for a 2005 Galatrona. I don't think it would be a disappointment.

Fried Chicken and Carillon

2011-01-19T14:32:00.000-08:00

I've been on a deep-frying kick. I'm decidedly OCD and when I get going on something, I tend to beat it to death. I had some extra buttermilk in the fridge and decided I was going to make fried chicken. After soaking some chicken breasts in the aforementioned buttermilk for 24 hours, I was ready to fire up a vat of oil and get to work.

I must say that this has been Kara's favorite dinner in a long time, which is actually saying a lot. I prepared a simple Caesar salad, the Buttermilk Fried Chicken and a good old-fashioned box of Kraft Mac & Cheese. The buttermilk/flour combo created an amazingly delicious crusty skin on the chicken breasts and was crisped to perfection. There is something so amazing about good homemade fried chicken. It takes me back to my childhood when my Tennessee-born grandmother would fry chicken for our long road trips to Ohio.

So, to go along with the chicken, we opened a Louis Carillon 'Les Champs Canet' Puligny-Montrachet 2001. Critical reviews put this as well past its prime, but it's drinking beautifully and Kara noted it as the best white Burgundy she's ever had. Balanced acidity, strongly present minerality and integrated oak flavors all come together in this beautiful portrait of what Chardonnay should always be. And this is not a great vintage for them...

In the following days, we ate a lot of fried chicken: wings, legs and more. Needless to say, we are due for a little cut-back on the calories so I think we're aiming for a weeklong diet in the coming days.

Dinner with Cheree and Josh

2011-01-17T14:00:00.000-08:00

I always neglect to take pictures of the food at these onslaughts.

Our good friends Cheree and Josh attended one of the legendary dinner parties at our place last night. It had been awhile since we'd seen them and they'd been wanting to experience the madness since the first time we did this. So, with a long weekend at hand, I set forth to build another wine-paired menu for the four of us.

We began at their arrival with some bubbles, of course: Andre Robert Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc from Le Mesnil sur Oger. 100% sustainably-produced Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards and a reserve blend of three vintages. At the price, this is really amazing a terrific value. Probably retails for about $40-ish. Lots of minerality and, as it warms in the glass, the ginger, orange marmalade and lemon rind comes out. Great chalkiness in addition to the standard toast and ginger flavors. Definitely my new "house" Champagne!

After a leisurely cocktail hour, I strapped myself in for the cooking process. We began with some oysters: Shygokus from the Pacific which are reputed to be somewhat rare. They were very clean tasting with significant brine. Only slightly larger than Kumimotos, they were packed with delicate flavors. I served these two ways: traditionally with no decoration and also as a "Chesapeake Bay Shooter". The shooter included vodka, olives, shallots, garlic and lemon zest. I'm a purist, myself, so, while the shooter was fun, I totally dug the pure oyster. And especially with the Pascal Cotat 'Les Monts Damnes' Sancerre 2008. The wine was crisp and citrus-y, but also leaning into some tropical notes aromatically. Wonderful old-world minerality that clings to the palate. Terrific oyster wine and should be interesting to taste again with some age as I know these wines can go the distance.

The second course was a real hit: Pad Thai served with the Weinbach 'L'Inedit' Riesling 2006. I love Pad Thai, in general, but this recipe rocks my world. Not overly saucy or overly sweet and very fresh and integrated flavors that come together like a beautifully balanced wine. Which can also be said for the Riesling. The 'L'Inedit', in my experience, is always so delicately put together and offers so much flavor and substance in a bold package, but without feeling overblown at all. It's like watching a really great action movie that has really well-written dialogue and a well thought-out story. When does THAT happen...?

Next, we ventured into a Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Dressing and a Goat Cheese Cake on top. I love this salad. Bacon is the great equalizer with wine pairing and this course allowed me to break into red wine, despite it being a salad course. I paired a Russian River Pinot Noir from Arista winery 2005 called 'Longbow'. The wine was balanced and drinking at its peak with solid red fruits and moderate body. Not overly complex, but servicable with the salad. This was my least favorite wine and pairing of the evening, but nothing at all to complain about, by any means.

For the main course, I broke out the Beef Wellington and some Oven-Roasted Brussels Sprouts. We've done the Wellington before, but it's always a hit. As I often do, I eliminated the foie gras and substituted a mushroom and bleu cheese mixture inside the puff-pastry. It was an excellent bridge to the funky earthiness of the Cos d'Estournel 2001. Cheree smelled it and immediately said, "barnyard poopy". I love that! Though an off-vintage, I've been loving this wine over the years. Still youthful, it has a significant life ahead and I will abstain from popping another cork for probably five more years, despite how well it is drinking now. Lots of rich black fruits, plenty of earth and dirt, Brett and florality.

As usual, no one ever makes it to dessert and I'm quickly learning to always have one ready in the wings, but to not go to any extra efforts. I hade some of my homemade vanilla ice cream prepared and I picked up some bananas to have a Bananas Foster. Kara and I were kind of excited about it so we made it anyway about an hour after company had left. It was absolutely the best I've ever made this dish and we both devoured it. There's nothing better than homemade ice cream and the caramel sauce and dark rum were just taking it to a whole other level.

All-in-all, another successful dinner extravaganza and everytime it gets smoother, faster and easier to execute. A perfect way to spend Sunday evening with friends!

Zind-Humbrecht and TCA

2011-01-12T13:16:00.000-08:00

I don't want to get up on the soap box or anything, but I really felt compelled to share this:

I attended a lunch with Zind-Humbrecht probably about two years ago now. If you're not familiar with the wines, they are one of the most famous producers in Alsace. I'm not personally a HUGE fan of Alsacian wines, but I keep pushing myself to find my way in to loving them.

At this lunch, the topic of TCA (corkiness) came up and our host revealed that he had found the way to avoid corkiness in his wines. His theory was that corkiness was caused by the chemicals and pesticides found in the ground. The rains would splash these chemicals on to the cork trees where the cork is harvested and TCA is thereby introduced into the wines. Sounds like an interesting and reasonable theory...?

The Solution: Zind-Humbrecht only purchases cork harvested from six feet and higher on the cork trees. Thereby, avoiding the chemicals and pesticides...

The Result: The 2009 Pinot Gris I opened last night... Corked.

An "Over the Top" Christmas Eve

2010-12-30T12:56:00.000-08:00

No - Sylvester Stallone didn't drop by for arm wrestling... But that would've been an interesting party, too. Christmas Eve was a balls-to-the-wall exercise in decadence this year! Not sure why that particular bug bit in 2010, but everyday is a party, they say. So, why not kick it up a notch for the holiday?!!!

Kara's tradition for Christmas Eve is hanging out and eating appetizers. She has a bean dip that she makes every year which is the anchor to this concept. I get to fill in the goodies all around it. So, I figured it really knock it out of the park:

We opened with side-by-side glasses of Paul Bara Brut Champagne NV and Moreau's 'Les Clos' Grand Cru Chablis 2008. I paired these to a dozen Fanny Bay oysters (yes - I shucked them myself...) and an ounce of Russian Osetra Caviar. The Champagne was nice: crisp minerality, balanced fruit, but really just a servicable sparkler. It worked well with both foods. The Chablis was awesome! I think the quality of the wine itself made this the favorable pairing for both the caviar and the oysters. It was salty, with chalk and butter compound, ripe fruits, perfumed with white flowers and moderate body. This Chablis was just ranked in the Top 100 by Wine Spectator, so grab it while you can.

Our next course was Alaskan King Crab Legs, also paired to the Chablis. This was pretty awesome to see the change in the wine. The Crab Legs really drew out the fruitier aspects of the Chardonnay, while the lighter seafood dishes played on the minerality. I knew these wines would be versatile and fine pairings for all of these dishes, but I had no idea how delicious and interesting this Chablis was going to be!

Lastly, Kara's bean dip hit the table. No pairing here except for some beer. In retrospect, I should've filmed her eating the bean dip. You've never seen such a small girl put away so much. "Selective hunger", she calls it...

All in all, a great Christmas Eve! Hope yours was as enjoyable!

A Random Observation...

2010-12-28T20:44:00.000-08:00

Well - I thought the point of advertisements and literature at the retail level was to encourage you to BUY the product. Perhaps I was wrong...

While shopping at Bevmo for some festive holiday ales, I came across this ad for the joint venture between two breweries I like. At $20 for a 750 ml, it ain't exactly cheap as beer goes. Curiousity immediately took hold and my first reaction is, of course, GRAB IT!

But something sat uneasy with me on this good night and I re-read beyond the names of the two breweries that had pretty much sold me on the beer. "Light" - ALL the way up to the "short finish". Sounds like a Pellegrino. How ever could they craft such an amazing roller coaster ride of a beer?

Look - I love a light-bodied beer as much as the next guy - but short finish? I'm out!

Needless to say, I passed on purchasing the beer. Congratulations, Bevmo! You just lost a sale thanks to the literature you posted to promote the product.

The Saveur/Alsace Event at Jar

2010-12-10T12:43:00.000-08:00

We had a great event at Jar last night! It's been a long and arduous process in getting it together, but ultimately a good time was had by all. "Wines of Alsace" hosted a tasting via Saveur magazine for Los Angeles sommeliers. It was held late night so somms could relax and cut loose after work. Wines and food were paired by yours truly, showcasing the diversity of Alsace.

Here were the wines selected and poured for the event:

Rene Mure, Cremant d’Alsace NV
Trimbach, Pinot Blanc 2006
Weinbach, Pinot Blanc ‘Reserve’ 2007
Trimbach, ‘Cuvee Frederic Emile’, Riesling 2002
Pierre Sparr, Cremant d’Alsace Rose NV
Weinbach, ‘Cuvee Ste. Catherine L’Inedit’, Riesling 2006
Zind Humbrecht, Pinot Gris 2009
Marcel Deiss, ‘Beblenheim’, Pinot Gris 2004
Zind Humbrecht, Gewurtztraminer 2009
Schlumberger, ‘Kitterle’ Gewurtztraminer 2005

It was a great glimpse into the style of Alsace, ranging from entry level to Grand Cru wines, dry to off-dry, and great vintages to mediocre. While not my favorite region in general, it always surprises me how well these wines DO work with food. Although, as a sommelier, you do have to get past that initial shock for most American palates of the residual sugar in some of the wines. Or as one of my former servers once said that really sums it up, "It's sugar water!!"

The real standouts in the lineup are shown above. The 'L'Inedit' Riesling by Weinbach was the clear favorite, and not a surprise. It was the first wine on my list when I was asked to select the wines. Even from a shoddy vintage, this wine is deftly balanced and just a treat to drink. A picture of elegance! And great with the Char Siu Pork Croissants! I also found myself returning to the 'Cuvee Frederic Emile' Riesling 2002 by Trimbach. A bit more austere with more present acidity and less residual sugar than the Weinbach, it was an excellent contrast and better suited to the Hamachi it was paired with. I also found the Marcel Deiss 'Bebblenheim' Pinot Gris 2004 to be quite delicious with a very intriguing nose that could be considered offensive to some. It was paired classically to a deliciously rich Onion Tart. And lastly, Schlumberger's 'Kitterle' Gewurtztraminer 2005 was intense! Decidedly off-dry and bordering on sweet, showing all the rose, lychee, baked apricot that makes Gewurtztraminer the Elvis Presley of wine. It was a wildly interesting and unique pairing with Lamb Meatballs in a Honey Dipping Sauce.

I included Zind Humbrecht because they are considered one of the best, if not THE best, producers in Alsace. However, the reception to their wines was less than favorable. I thought they showed fine, but it seems many did not understand their style. Granted, these were not their premier wines, but they were the entry-level wines that most would be exposed to.

A great thanks to our talented chef Suzanne Tracht for her hard work on the six dishes that I was able to pair to! And to the Wines of Alsace and Saveur for allowing us to put on this fun event.

2001 Produttori Barbaresco 'Moccagatta'

2010-10-19T12:55:00.000-07:00

Still drinking Nebbiolo -

I found the 2001 Moccagatta from Produttori del Barbaresco at a tasting held at Pizzeria Mozza almost four years ago now. The tasting featured the entire lineup of their 2001's, other current releases, and a vertical of the Poro vineyard (I think...). We've had the wine on the list since that time and when it came down to my last bottle, I just had to buy it and say goodbye properly.

The menu featured a Prime Ribeye from Costco, the last of our Chino Farms corn sauteed with some red bell pepper, and a long-grain wild rice provided expertly by Rice-a-Roni. I love that stuff! I grew up eating Chicken-flavored Lipton rice for almost every meal. Twenty minutes in the microwave so it got crusty on the edges... Look - you have some weird childhood foods, too!

The wine is drinking beautifully. Still firmly structured and fuller-bodied than the recently reviewed Brovia Barolo. Red cherry, leaning its way toward black, roses and tar, plum and blackberry. The dusty spices are there as well. To my recollection from the tasting, the Moccagatta was the fruitier and more crowd-pleasing bottling and that seems to still be the case.

Delicious wine and great with the meal. I suppose the Ribeye could have taken a heartier wine, but I was certainly not complaining. When great wine is great, fine-tuning to food is usually irrelevant.

Brovia Barolo 2005

2010-10-17T11:35:00.000-07:00

We just picked up the 2005 Brovia Barolo at Jar and, having not tasted the 2005 yet, I figured I might as well pick one up and give it a shot. I've been on a Nebbiolo kick lately and any excuse to dive into one is welcome.

While not profound, the Brovia 2005 Normale is everything I look for in a Barolo at a young age. The core of cherry fruit is there with the roses, tar, dusty spices and gripping tannins. This is Barolo in the classic style: light-bodied, elegant and built for hearty foods to tear down that wall of tannin.

An interesting point: There is a small blurb in "What to Drink with What You Eat" from Silverlake Wine owner (and former somm at Campanile) George Cosette about Barolo. He says that people are sometimes surpised when they taste Barolo at how "light" it is when they were told or think that it's a "big" wine. I encountered this last night when I served a bottle and the table was surprised at the light color and light body with jarringly (no pun intended) firm tannin.

This brings up the issue of wine vocabulary. "Big" can mean a lot of things. Big fruit, big tannin, big alcohol, big body. My buddy Josh means big tannin. Most people seem to mean big body or dark fruit. So, in that sense, Barolo is not a big wine.

Yes - back to the Barolo at hand. By the time said table had food, the Barolo had been open and was singing with the dishes. While still not a full-bodied wine, it was better with food. Personally, I was hoping they'd refure the wine so I could taste the staff on it and maybe pour it to some cool guests in the dining room. Or worse, drink it at the end of the night! No such luck.

Tenuta di Trinoro Estate 2003

2010-10-10T11:04:00.000-07:00

Every so often, disappointment rears its ugly head...

I opened a bottle of Tenuta di Trinoro Estate 2003 with dinner last night after a long night at Jar. Kara and I were enjoying a Kansas City, some roasted carrots and sauteed corn from Chino Farms. A Bordeaux blend from Tuscany seemed a good fit and we hadn't tried this in a few years.

I accept that 2003 was a hot year for Europe that produced less terroir-driven wines, but this was practically a Californian wine. Kara blind-tasted it as New World Bordeaux-blend. The fruit showed as wild berry jam mixed with violets, soft tannins and a short finish. And this is not a cheap wine! While I have confidence in the quality of this producer, I cannot recommend the 2003 vintage of this bottle.

It's possible that this paled in comparison after tasting the 1996 Phelan-Segur and the 1997 Shafer Hillside Select at Jar tonight, which were both showing beautifully. I think I'm suffering from wine envy tonight...

Penfolds with Chief Winemaker Peter Gago

2010-10-08T12:49:00.000-07:00

I was invited today to a tasting of Penfold's wines featuring chief winemaker Peter Gago as a speaker. He is in town for the recorking clinic tour. If you're not familiar with this, Penfold's offers to recork any bottle of Penfolds older than fifteen years for free. They see a lot of wines from the 50's, 60's and so on. So, to our benefit, he decided to hold this trade tasting of mostly current releases.

Upon entering, we were served the 2009 Bin 51 Riesling. Plenty of petrol and lime on the nose, dry on the palate (austere, even...) with peach underlying. Also a touch of tropicality in the nose with orange as well. Very straightforward and a nice, friendly Riesling.

At our prepared seats, we had a line-up of whites and reds. To start we tasted contrasting Chardonnays. The 2009 Bin 311 Chardonnay represents the more Burgundian-styled with less new oak, but still showing baked apple, buttered toast, fig and orange flavors with crisp acidity that support a moderate finish. On the other end is their premium Chardonnay: the "Yattarna" Chardonnay 2007, which sees a lot more new oak. Wildly buttered grilled pineapple, lemon, green apple, showing nice balance in its components, but certainly a powerhouse. At $100 a bottle, I'd stick to the Bin 311.

Moving on to reds, we tasted the Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvedre 2009 which shows amazing freshness on the nose, almost as if it were not oaked at all. Also, cracked black pepper, black cherry, a little herbaceousness, blueberry and a touch of raspberry. Following this, in comparison, they poured the Bin 138 GSM 2007. Bin 138, sealed with a screw cap, showed an incredible amount of reductive flavors that needed blowing off. However, underneath the rubber, it showed black and red fruits with dried flowers, a touch of coconut, and a nice balance on the palate.

The Bin 28 "Kalimna" Shiraz 2006 began to showcase what Penfold's is known for: Shiraz. This wine was textbook Shiraz with cherry liqueur and chocolate on the nose, blueberry and blackberry mixed with black pepper, sweet aromatics, and somewhat firm tannin. Following this, and more in the style I would prefer, is the "St. Henri" Shiraz 2005, which is aged in large oak casks, minimizing the oak flavors and emphasizing the purity of the fruit. This wine showed Queen Anne Cherry Cordials and vanilla on the nose, a very clean fruit component, balance, florality, blueberry and black cherry, a hint of meat as well as a saline character. Moderate body and soft tannin with a beautiful texture on the mouth. Following this was a library selection of the 1999 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon , poured from magnum. It was difficult to get past all the new oak on this wine. It reeked of freshly sawed cedar on the nose as well as on the palate. Underlying, there were sweet flavors of brown sugar, coconut, vanilla, Twizzlers, blackberry and cassis, baking spices. The tannins are very firm suggesting this has a way to go, but I doubt that oak will ever integrate.

And finally - the 2004 Grange. Firm tannin dominates the palate right now, suggesting this has got a long life ahead. 100% new American oak shows on the nose and palate, but it's much more integrated than the other bottlings. The florality here is fresher and the fruit is sweet, but not AS sweet. The finish on this guy is pretty impressive and overall, for elegance in Australia, this is top notch. I wouldn't pay the prices they're charging these days, but I certainly wouldn't turn away a glass if offered.

Lastly, they poured a Grandfather Rare Tawny. I love Aussie dessert wines in lieu of dessert. They have so much to offer! This was full of walnuts, cherry flesh, tangerine candy, brown sugar, raisins, fig, toast. Wildly sweet, of course, but complex and a delicious end to a meal with some cheese.

With as much wine and as many labels as Penfold's makes, it's a wonder they can make this many solid wines. Overall, they are crowd-pleasers and don't push the envelope in any one direction, but their commitment to showing different styles and vineyard sources is commendable. A hearty thanks to Mr. Gago for making some time for the Los Angeles wine market!

Washington Road Trip Day 5: Woodinville

2010-10-06T12:46:00.000-07:00

Our day began with our departure from Suncadia and a bus ride to Woodinville. Most of the wineries in Washington are located here and ship their grapes in from the vineyards we have been visiting all this week. While it may sound weird, it’s really not that unusual. For example, if a winery in Calistoga (Northern Napa) gets any grapes from Carneros (Southern Napa), that’s an hour shipment that you’d never know about. While not particularly scenic, this is really where all the magic happens and the wines actually get made. There are lots of tasting rooms and that’s about it. Actually, at one intersection, there are no less than 25 tasting rooms. One could potentially come to this one intersection for two or three days. In addition, this is where the famous Chateau Ste. Michelle winery is located which brings plenty of attention.

A small group of us were assigned to go to the DeLille facility with owner Jay Soloff and Chris Upchurch, the winemaker. Chris spoke to us for awhile about his philosophy on winemaking and what is important. He has travelled the world to see wineries and discover “what is a great wine”. Chris then took us into the winery and let us get on the sorting table to sort some Roussanne. Then, he allowed me to inoculate a barrel of Merlot. While a simple process, it was awesome and sounds impressive! This was a great visit and I have a tremendous amount of respect for the team at DeLille now.

We returned to Columbia Winery for a seminar on Merlot, the proposed grape that Washington does best. The seminar featured Bob Betz MW and showcased some of his wine as well as some other producers. I think many of the wine professionals in the room agree that Merlot needs to make a comeback. I don’t know if it’s because it’s the underdog at this point, but the Merlot coming out of Washington (and many other varietals, as well) is exceptional, particularly for the money. Unfortunately, a movie wiped it out of people’s realm of consideration and, with any luck, that will wear off someday and wine drinkers will rediscover amazing wines. Especially those from Washington!

We had a brief tasting in the barrel room across the street at Chateau Ste. Michelle after the seminar. Two tables that were real standouts were DeLille and Eferte. The DeLille wines were great across the board! Their Roussanne has terrific acidity with peach, lime and honeysuckle. The Chaleur Estate Blanc was profound and I can’t wait to go home and buy it! Eferte makes a slew of wines, but their Riesling was a standout: Orange Crush aromas and really zesty acidity supporting the tangerine, lime, melon and peach flavors. Also, their Emmy which is a Mourvedre-based blend was pretty solid. Lots of white pepper and animal flavors over a core of cherry and plum. This one is perfect for Jar.

We dined in the winery after that. “The Ocho” reconvened one last time! I’m really going to miss dining with these people. It’s highly unlikely that we will all be together ever again, but I will hope for that day. It was a bittersweet meal as we all began to re-assimilate into our real lives, checking phones, prepping for our return to work. But we have a tremendous amount of memories to take with us. As well as some incriminating photos…

So, a quick recap, if you’ve made it through this entire rehash of my journey to Washington: These are really wonderful wines and not to be overlooked. There is such an amazing sense of pride and awe that this wine-producing community feels about what they are doing. I’ve never seen so many people in competition with each other who are also so supportive of one another. These are vines that have not been affected by phylloxera. The flavors are complex in a way seen in few places around the globe. These growers and winemakers are incredibly passionate and it shows in the wines they make. And this is just a budding region! It’s going to be amazing to see where they go from here.

I will definitely be on that trip for sure!

In the mean time, there are two very sad dachsunds waiting for me to come home. I'm on my way, boys!

Washington Road Trip Day 4: Yakima and Suncadia

2010-10-05T12:50:00.000-07:00

Today was a pretty big travel day broken up by some wine events, as opposed to our previous days that felt the other way around. Although, we did get a fair amount of down time at the luxurious Suncadia Mountain Lodge. That was a pleasant surprise.

The day began with a bus ride out to the DuBrul vineyard. Owned and farmed by Hugh Sheils and his family, they escorted us on a foot tour through the vineyard where we sampled all the varietals they make off the vine. They produce Cote Bonneville themselves, but also sell a lot of the fruit off to other wineries like Owen Roe. With 48 acres under vine, you kind of have to let a little go. This was my first time tasting Riesling off the vine and I have to say, I’d love to have these frozen in my freezer for a hot day.

At the end of the tour, we stopped and tasted through the wines off the back of Hugh’s SUV. These included the 2008 Chardonnay, 2007 Carriage House Blend and the 2003 Cote Bonneville which was pretty amazing. In addition, they poured us a little Late Harvest Riesling that they make for themselves and their wine dinners. This was the star of the show. Even though it’s 16% sugar, it felt completely dry because of all the acid Washington produces. I’d put a few of these away if you ever happen to see them by some chance.

A lengthy bus ride later, we arrived at the Red Willow Vineyard in Yakima. Absolutely stunning property! A strenuous uphill hike through Owen Roe’s Syrah vines brings you to a small chapel they built to resemble La Chapelle in France. And from up there, an amazing view of Mt Adams and the rest of the property. The smell of the Concord grapes being grown down below wafted up the hill and smelled like a jam truck exploded.

We had a sit-down Syrah seminar with some producers, highlighting how Syrah is affected by including stems in fermentation, how the weather can change its flavors, as well as the winemakers influence. The real standout at this tasting was the JM Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard ‘ Syrah 2007. It had everything going on: mocha, vanilla, pepper, smoked meat, blueberry, soy, beef jerky. It’s beginning to become apparent that there truly are Grand Cru vineyards in Washington.

We enjoyed tacos, burritos and beer on the lawn of the property from the Taco Truck they brought in. We relaxed for a bit and then hit the road for another lengthy bus ride to the Suncadia Mountain Lodge where we had a full three hours of scheduled down time to relax in whatever way we wanted. I took a stroll around the property and wound up at the far end of the driving range where I came upon six deer. Two families, in fact, with the parents and their babies. I had to sit down and soak in the wildlife for awhile. This is a gorgeous property and well worth the visit – I will definitely be going back someday!

At the other end of the property, we attended a small tasting on the patio of their adjacent and sister restaurant. Then, we were escorted down to dinner in the barrel room. We enjoyed the wines from Stillwater (the winery where we dined) among others. Our table of Master Sommeliers, et al re-joined forces and wreaked havoc on our tour group yet again. I started calling us “The Ocho” (an affectionate name I have for the “party table” in any room). We sucked down as much Riesling as we could throughout the course of the Italian-themed meal and had a blast!

Shortly after dinner, we discovered a life-size stuffed sheep… It’s not everyday one gets to molest a farm animal with a couple of Master Sommeliers.

We returned to the hotel for “Beer Hall”. I was quickly coerced into playing piano and was joined by Andy McNamara who sang a grumbled rendition of “Black”. That turned into Lady Gaga and so on. A few of us tackled the hot tub for about thirty minutes to relax and then off to bed with enough time to recharge for the final day.

Washington Road Trip Day 3: Ciel du Cheval and Fidelitas

2010-10-04T12:40:00.000-07:00

I am SO glad I didn’t go out with Charles Smith last night. Even after what amount of partying I did experience, I am so tired and not ready to do anything today. I rolled out of bed at 6:30, got ready and made it down to breakfast in the lobby. Cheerios… I couldn’t take anymore than that.

We shipped off to meet Jim Holmes at the Ciel du Cheval vineyard in Red Mountain AVA. Jim has been growing grapes for other wineries for more than 30 years. You can tell he’s a farmer. He’s very into the soil and the vines. In fact, he taught us how to analyze the soil to tell what it’s made of. Even the MS’s on this trip thought that was pretty cool. Jim toured us around the vineyard as well, showing off all of his hard work. Super nice guy!

We were then off to Washington State University for a tasting seminar of wines from the Ciel du Cheval vineyard. Some groups were at different vineyards in the morning, but I was very pleased to have been able to see the vines before jumping into these wines. In attendance with a few wines each were the winemakers from Seven Hills, DeLille and Andrew Will. They each poured the wines they make from Ciel du Cheval. It was amazing to see the through-line of what that specific vineyard has to offer. In fact, by the end of the tasting, many of us were able to identify the Ciel du Cheval vineyard blind amongst a couple of other Red Mountain vineyards.

Lunch was served after the tasting at WSU. Thankfully, it was a lighter meal than we have been served up to this point. My stomach was ready for a little break from the cheese and charcuterie. We had a little extra time so we hung out on the lawn. It was like being back in college again.

Charlie Hoppes of Fidelitas picked up our little mini-group for the afternoon. We rode in his Excursion out to the winery and tasted through the line-up of his current releases. He made a name for himself while making wines at Columbia Crest. This is a slightly smaller endeavor, producing about 7500 cases a year. But, to keep himself busy, he also makes the wines for about 6 or 7 other wineries. The highlights from his line-up were the Semillon, Merlot and Ciel du Cheval Cabernet. He also poured us a vertical of his Optu from 2005 to 2007.

We then rode out to the Red Mountain Vineyard, where he sources fruit from to check out the vines. After a quick stop, we then rode to where they make the wine. Charlie allowed us to taste four different Merlots that are in the middle of fermentation. This was so cool! It comes out looking like carbonated wine mixed with a spoonful of melted ice cream. And it’s still fermenting out the alcohol, so it’s still sweet and warm. The texture is like unfiltered sake mixed with wine. But the flavors and tannin still show through. These are going to be some really good wines. We witnessed a quick punch down on a wine and then we were off to the hotel for a little downtime.

We were bussed out to Canyon Ranch for a tasting of the Red Mountain and Yakima regional tasting featuring some pretty awesome wineries: Andrew Will, Owen Roe, Cote Bonneville, Col Solare and many more. Most of us plowed through the wines and then dug into the thirty pound wheel of Parmesan on the picnic table. There were some very good wines on the tables, but we were all fairly tired of heavy reds by that time and very few of us took any detailed notes. I, myself, was only able to star a couple of wines to revisit at another time for serious consideration.

The dinner bell was rung and we sat for dinner under the tent. The meal was BBQ! And it was good… Barbecued chicken and ribs, Brussels sprouts with bacon, some crazy mashed potato concoction with cheeses… It was badass! The wines were less than stellar, but BBQ wines should really never stand out. In my world, anyway. As soon as we were permitted, my fellow tablemates and I procured as many beers as we could and shot the shit for a long while. Actually, four of my dining pals were Master Sommeliers. Before we knew it, the conversation ran from Eddie Izaard to the plagues, from diarrhea to Celine Dion, and Sean Connery… While it may sound weird, it was awesome! And then the Bacchi ball…

The bus ride home was no exception to the fun either. We broke out the disco and Disco Ball app on the phone. Singing all the way home with a Scuttlebutt Tripel in hand. It’s awesome when you don’t have to be responsible for getting home! AND when you can drink in the vehicle on the way! Who says the party has to stop when you leave the venue?!!!!

Washington Road Trip Day 2: Morning Wood and Charles Smith!

2010-10-03T12:32:00.000-07:00

Yikes! I awoke at 4:45. This is what time I’m normally going to bed! After a much needed cup of Starbucks, we hopped a prop plane out to the Tri-Cities airport to begin the Road Trip. Directly off the plane, we hopped on to our busses and were soon tooling down the road through Washington Wine Country. Riding along the Columbia River and looking at sheep. Good times! The overall plan for the journey is to work our way back to Woodinville by bus, stopping at the major AVA’s and wineries along the way.

The day began at Woodward Canyon with Rick Small. A fifth generation farmer, he toted us out into the vineyard to do some berry samples. 2010 has been an extended and late vintage for everyone down the west coast so we had the opportunity to taste the fruit when we otherwise might have not had the ability to do so (It would’ve normally been picked by now). We pulled different clones from clusters on different rows, etc. I’m tooling around on a broken tow (long story…), so it was a slight challenge, but awesome!

We checked the sugar levels of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with the refractometer and then tasted barrel samples of the same varietals from 2009. Those of us brave enough to do it in front of the owner, concocted blends from the individual grapes. I christened mine as “Morning Wood”.

After that, the debauchery ensued. I pretty much won the lottery on the Road Trip by being paired up with Charles Smith of K Vintners for the afternoon. Myself, and three others (one of whom was newly indoctrinated Melissa Monohoff MS) spent the afternoon hanging out with Charles at the winery. Ultimately, it turned into a patio party with some of his wines and a Vieux Telegraphe 2005. Of the K Wines, we tasted the 2008 Viognier, 2008 Phil Lane Syrah (from 2 acres surrounding his home), 2005 Cougar Hills Syrah, and the 2007 Royal City Syrah. All were excellent wines with intense complexity, but completely balanced on the palate. As Charles said, it coats the palate, but still feels light.

We were required to return to our new hotel at 4pm, but Charles traded his SUV for a Rolls Royce Phantom 2006 and came to pick us up covertly for a “super secret probation party” back at the winery before the evening festivities. We sped out (and I mean sped at 110mph…) to the winery where we drank a Sauzet Puligny 1994 amongst other activities that set the night up for pure hilarity!

Off to Leonetti Cellars for tasting and dinner, I don’t think any of us wanted to do more than drink beer or Riesling. So, Charles grabbed each of us a Japanese import (didn’t get the name, but he has it imported special…) for the car ride over. He says the cops “know “ him! Can’t imagine how. We plowed through the tasting as best we could and hankered for dinner.

Dinner was wonderful. The Leonetti wine pairings could have been a little more course specific, but the wines were good on their own, as was the food provided by Graze Catering. The Leonetti’s offered their Sangiovese with Antipasto, the Merlot with Caesar Salad and Roasted Tomatoes, and the Cabernet with Spaghetti and Meatballs. For a dessert of Tiramisu, they poured their Reserve Cabernet. A number of cool wines were broken out by the Walla Walla Vintners after the meal for fun.

The night extended itself as Charles escorted us in the Phantom (affectionately named Satan) to the Green Lantern for a preliminary beer before attending the official “Beer Hall” in downtown Walla Walla with the rest of the gang. Eventually, we caught up with the rest of the crew to enjoy some local brews and a relaxing end to the evening. Charles was still looking to party, but our tour guides advised us highly against it if we wanted to survive to rest of the week…

And so Day 2 has come to a close. I am excited for what the rest of the week has in store –

Washington Road Trip Day 1: Seattle

2010-10-02T12:11:00.000-07:00

I was lucky enough to be invited by the Washington State Wine Commission to attend the 2010 Road Trip. Basically, they invite about 40 – 50 sommeliers and wine buyers to Washington for an intensive tour through the AVA’s of wine country. Having never actually made the trek myself, I leapt at the opportunity. 5 days in wine country paid for – of course I did!

I landed in Seattle to the typical rain and gloom. I just wouldn’t have been happy if it wasn’t disgusting weather. It would be like meeting the Pope while he was smoking a doobie. We were shuttled directly to our hotel at the Edgewater. It actually was on the edge of the water! Cute little hotel and very lodgy-feeling. And apparently famous for hosting the Beatles in 1964 during the whole Beatlemania craze. In fact, they snuck us down the same stairwell to our buses. No screaming girls, though….

After a brief “primer” with Master Sommelier Shayn Bjornholm, we were shuttled off to the Space Needle for a wine tasting of the 11 AVA’s. IN the Space Needle! Great atmosphere. And very cool wines as well. Some interesting finds were:

Tsillan Dry Riesling 2008
Syncline Gruner Veltliner and Mourvedre
DeLille Harrison Hill 2007
Hedges ‘Red Mountain’ Blend 2007
Dupont ‘Red Mountain’ Les Gosses Syrah (vtg?)

After the tasting, we stood atop the Space Needle and took in the view at our leisure, deciding who we were going to hook up with and where we were going for dinner. I latched on quickly to a small group and we dined at Lark. Very good tapas-style restaurant. Pricey, but the food was truly delicious. I highly recommend the Sea Bass which was the best I may have ever had. And the Buratta ain’t a bad way to start with the local Billy’s Tomatoes.

With dinner, we ordered a bottle of the McCrea Grenache Blanc, a Teroldego (forget the producer…) and a Januik Red Blend (to support the locals again). The Grenache Blanc was a real surprise and very good. Sourced fruit from the Boushey Vineyard. All of the wines were sound and versatile with the array of dishes.

Sadly, no after-partying as we were getting up bright and early to fly out to the Tri-Cities in the morning. And by bright and early, I actually mean dark and early…

Let the Road Trip ensue…

Spontaneous 'Cab and Cow' Moment

2010-09-30T12:28:00.000-07:00

While we normally reserve 'Cab and Cow' for when my folks come to town, Kara and I couldn't resist the other day. We hopped in the car and raced over to the Morton's Steakhouse in Burbank with a bottle of wine in hand. Racing to make it before they shut down lunch service, we had to grab a bottle quickly so I pulled an old stand-by: Frostwatch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007.

The truth of the matter is that when Kara had her burger at dinner with Daniel and Monica, it was overcooked and she was somewhat disappointed. I swore to her that if she came at lunch, it would be spot-on since those chefs cook so many of them. Well, I was right! She unfortunately ordered medium-rare, thinking it would be overcooked. Seabass (the chef I used to work with when this was my stomping ground) nailed it! But she didn't actually want mid-rare, so she sent it back for more love. Then, it came back almost well-done. Tragedy, but expected.

On the other hand, the Frostwatch Cab 2007 is still showing awesomely. I know you don't know this wine. Nobody does! Brett Raven made a whopping fifty cases of it with fruit sold to him by David Ramey from the Larkmead vineyard in Calistoga. It's absolutely gorgeous California Cab that reminds me of a second-label version of Caymus Special Selection. Brett has only made this wine twice: 2005 and 2007. The '07 smokes the '05, but both are good wines and pretty awesome for the price at $35-ish retail.

The bad news is that of the 50 cases he made of the 2007, I bought 27 of them for Jar and we've pretty much sold out of it(We've reverted back to the last four existing cases of the 2005 out of dire necessity). So, it's unlikely you'll ever see this killer wine. Unless you want to drop by the house, in which case I might be able to locate a bottle for us to try.

We topped the lunch off with a shot of Fernet Branca and went drunkeon shopping. I to Albertson's and Kara to the Pet Supply Store. I grabbed supplies for dinner, ogled the actor who plays Newman on Seinfeld in the frozen foods section, and then we tooled home with the top down on the Mustang. Life is good!

The Duckhorn Event

2010-09-28T12:08:00.000-07:00

I drug my neighbor, Chris, over to Upstairs 2 at the Wine House for a Duckhorn event. In the past, this tasting has been mass chaos, with Duckhorn providing some library wines as well as virtually every label they produce. This particular event was much more low-key and had the winery focusing on their new Decoy label.

Up to this point, Decoy was simply a red wine blend. Duckhorn has diversified the label, sourcing quality fruit from other wineries. For example, the 2009 Chardonnay was purchased from Patz and Hall and includes Dutton vineyard fruit. Not bad. In addition, they showed the Decoy Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc was consistent with past vintages, blending in 25% Semillon and dousing it with some oak. Clearly Californian, but modelled after the Bordeaux-style. Lots of tropical notes, banana, some citrus. Very drinkable but definitely not the style of SB I go for.

The Decoy line-up was good. I didn't particularly care for the Chardonnay, but that's no real surprise. The Merlot showed typical plum/cherry/spice, but lighter oaked than the big brother (Duckhorn) and, for that reason, I actually liked it. Same for the Cabernet - a bit cleaner with black/blue fruits and not masked under an ocean of spice. Thumbs up on this new value line-up, guys!

The Goldeneye Pinot Noir 2007 was a real surprise. I think I've grown into Anderson Valley Pinot over these past few years. Racy acidity, pomegranete, spice, black cherry, a little mushroom and bitter earth on the finish. I was kind of surprised by this one. And with the deals they're offering, you might be able to find this at a reaonable price.

The Duckhorn Merlot 2007 was pretty consistent, as well. Rich black cherry and dark plum, mocha, with the red fruits leaning into black a little. Lots of baking spice and pretty firmly structured. As Chris said, "a Cab-drinker's Merlot". And it is, since it's the only way anyone can sell Merlot these days.

Lastly, the Paraduxx 2007 was, despite being 70% Zin, decidedly not that Zinn-y. There is a raisined, jammy edge to the flavor, but it's fairly controlled and this seems to be a very good year for the Paraduxx. Dark blue/black fruits with tannin, but only a little. Straight-forward and easy to drink. Fairly seamless as this blend goes.

I fought the urge to go downstairs and shop. I did walk through to assess the state of the retail wine world. There were some fun Italian reds with some age on them that were calling out to me, but with 1400 bottles in the cellar, there was hardly a call to buy them and restraint prevailed for once.

The Search for Decent Wines: Part 3

2010-09-26T12:21:00.000-07:00

The last couple of appointments for the week! Thank God! I know most of you are thinking, "Poor baby - has to taste wine all week for a living..." Believe me, it's not always so much fun. Imagine waking up hangover and having to drink because it's your job!

So, this last run was with a Paul Young and Suzanne from Kimberly Jones wines. Some interesting finds from both the New and Old Worlds. Here are the highlights:

Bonny Doon Albarino 2009: A nice replica of a Rias Baixas Albarino. Showing lots of orange citrus and tropical tones. It doesn't show quite the juxtaposition of sweet nose to vibrant acidity that a Spanish representation would, but in that way it's a decent crowd pleaser.

Mariannet Touraine Gamay 2009: This is my first ever Gamay from the Loire (I think...). Really intrigued by this one: Super-fresh red fruits with raspberry and the acidity of an underripe strawberry. Refreshing to drink with terrific earthiness underlying. Crisper acidity than a Beaujolais might have.

Cazar Chardonnay 2008 Sonoma Coast: The second label of Chasseur, this is a bold, typical California-style Chardonnay that doesn't suck. I remember saying to Suzanne, "Some days I think I don't hate California Chardonnay as much as I think I do.." Rich, powerful flavors of baked apple and pear, pineapple, butterscotch. All that typical stuff is there with lots of new, spicy oak. But it's actually pretty good. A great value.

Scholium Project Petite Syrah 2005: Big, rich, chalky, very grippy tannins, dark brooding black fruits, coffee, herbs. This is a powerhouse and not for the faint of heart. It really wants some rich braises or fatty steaks, but it's a cool wine to taste alone as well. Not sure I could put down more than a glass, but it's pretty good stuff.

So - that's it for this week's line of tastings. We'll see how the pieces come together for our Fall wines that we pour by the glass. This looks to be a good start, but we may have a few more holes to fill.

The Search for Decent Wines: Part 2

2010-09-25T12:56:00.000-07:00

Another fruitful day in the pursuit of quality wines! Today was even better than yesterday, featuring visits from Grapevine, Rosenthal Importer, and Winemonger. After tasting yesterday, I kind of just needed a beer... Today, I am inspired to drink some great wine tonight! Thanks!

Perhaps you don't know the names of these companies I'm throwing out? Grapevine specializes in Pinot and Chard domestically from small producers in the US. They also represent some amazing European wines that are near impossible to get - Pingus, Rayas, etc. Neal Rosenthal imports very traditional wines from Europe and reminds me how wonderful wine is everytime I have a tasting. Lastly, Winemonger has a very small portfolio of some fantastic Austrian wines as well as Italian.

The Sommelier Quick Recap of great finds from the day:

Morgan 'Highlands' Chardonnay 2008: Talk about a Chardonnay that hits all the right spots. Almost as if they had a recipe and executed it perfectly so it was everything to everyone. It has oak, but just enough. Ripe fruit, but not over the top. 50/50 apple and pear with spice and some pineapple. It's almost freakish how typical it is, but in a good way.

Domaine Cheveau Macon Solutre Pouilly 2008: Very generous fruit with strong minerality. Attacks almost like a Vouvray with an illusion of sweetness, but it's completely clean. Then it becomes Burgundian Chardonnay. Long finish - it just goes! Very impressive wine with only 250-ish cases imported.

Gerard Viognier 2008: I don't know many people who choose Viognier to drink, but I would probably drink this in the right setting. It's completely balanced and not over the top, showing classic peach and orange blossom flavors, without the schlocky tiring viscosity. Not too bitter on the finish either. Very impressive for a Vin de Pays.

Montpertuis Cote du Rhone 2008: This is better than many of the 2007 Chateauneuf du Papes I've had and I'd choose a glass of this Cote du Rhone over them. Classic! Chalky mineral and structured showing primarily red fruits peppered with black. Perfumey with lavender and flowers. Tinge of pepper. This is an awesome value wine!

Gritsch 'Kalmuck' Gruner Veltliner 2009: I adore Gruner and this hit the spot for me. Also, my first of the 2009's which is very promising. Radish on the nose leads into peach over grapefruit flavors with the blast of white pepper. Round and friendly on the fruit for first-time GruVe drinkers, but terrific mineral and complexity for afficionados. Great product!

San Francesco, Ciro Rosso Classico 2007: I was ready to buy the sample bottle from her so I could keep drinking it! 100% Gaglioppo aged in stainless steel (no oak at all!!!). Just a beautiful perfumey nose: fresh and floral with old-school red/black fruits. On the palate, astringent black tea steeped just a little too long, providing chalky tannin, black pepper. I can't wait to pour this by the glass. No one is going to know what it is, but the people who want to experiment will be magnificently rewarded.

Finding some great stuff so far! Very inspiring. The search continues... I can't wait to share some of it with you soon!

The Search for Decent Wines: Part 1

2010-09-24T12:36:00.000-07:00

Jar's wine by the glass program goes through a major overhaul about every six months and it's about that time again. Just in time for the fall months and the ensuing holidays. For me, this is a slightly painful experience - digging through a lot of inexpensive wines trying to find a halfway decent product I'm not embaressed to pour for $9 - $14 a glass. And that works well with our food!

I'm only slightly embarassed to say that I didn't make it to Spago to taste through the new line-up of Peter Michael wines at noon. Or to the Rioja event at the Four Seasons at 2pm, but I have another fish to fry!

Yesterday, I hosted three appointments, each of which offered about 8 - 10 wines each.

Some highlights from my crusty notebook included:

Miro Cabernet Sauvignon 2007: Rich, black fruits, licorice, spice. Not as rich as many of the 2007's, but more elegant in that way, as well. Straight-forward and an amazing value.

Miro Petite Syrah 2007: Coffee on the nose, jammy dark fruits, plums and blackberries, red licorice, very generous fruit and grippy tannins.

Arcangelo Salice Salentino 2009: From the heel of the boot in Italy, this bottling is 80% Negroamaro and 20% Malvasia Nero. An awesome value wine that is very straightforward, but with enough complexity to keep things interesting. Rose petals and black pepper on the nose with plums and blackberry fruit. Ground cinnamon. Just a delicious drinker!

Deep Sea Pinot Noir 2008: Candied strawberry aromas, but dry on palate. Excellent balance and elegance. It is fruit-driven with some cola nut showing through. Refreshing acidity. Solid for the price. Central Coast.

Rancho Arroyo Grande Zinfandel 2007: Tobacco and cigar box on the nose, baking spices, dried berries mixed with fresh jam, black pepper on the finish. Very full-bodied at 15.9% alc, but controlled and balanced within itself. Ripe enough fruit, but not raisined. Focused and classic.

I'll be tasting wines over this week and next so stay tuned for the highlights and "diamonds in the rough" from this treasure hunt.

An Engagement Celebration

2010-09-22T11:54:00.000-07:00

Our friends Daniel and Monica got engaged recently and revealed it to us last night over dinner at Morton's. They met through Kara and I - in fact, they had their first kiss the night of our engagement party. We were very happy to hear it and Kara shrieked at the top of her lungs when she found out.

To be honest, another friend had already filled me in ahead of time so I was prepped with the Champagne. For a celebratory toast, I brought a bottle of Egly-Ouriet 'Les Vignes de Vrigny' NV that my friend Chris Miller from Spago sold me. Egly-Ouriet is a small "Grower Champagne", primarily located in Ambonnay, but with other vineyard holdings as well. The 'Les Vignes de Vrigny' is actually 100% Pinot Meunier, which is all they have planted in Vrigny. Hence, this cool bottling of a 100% Meunier Champagne. His wines are unfined and unfiltered, spend plenty of time on the yeast, resulting in big powerful Champagnes.

The 'Les Vignes de Vrigny' was fantastic - a powerhouse, but still clinging to the elegance of Champagne. Lots of ginger and orange/lemon citrus. On the attack, the dosage stands out giving an immense blast of fruity pleasure, then the acidity quickly cleans it up and allows the mineral and secondary nuance to present itself. Plenty yeasty, this was a real crowd-pleaser and held up to the rich salads as well.

For reds, Monica brought a Boudreaux Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 from Washington. Leavenworth, to be exact. Interestingly enough, this is the only self-powered winery in Washington state due to the fact it's ten miles off the power grid. The wine fell into the profile of WA wines for me, candied/ripe fruits with a chalky tannin finish. The fruit felt a bit more "red" than I would normally expect from Cabernet, but it was great with the food and makes me respect how the anti-jammy Cab works so much better with food. Actually, for whatever reason, I really loved this wine with the Onion Rings.

I texted Sanguis winemaker Matthias Pippig about which of his wines I should take to dinner that night. He responded "Waxing Poetic" which is his new release. So - I make it a point never to cross the winemaker. I took the Sanguis 'Waxing Poetic' Syrah 2006. This was the first time I'd tasted this bottling after receiving it a few months ago. It was gorgeous and a definite hit at the table. Daniel was blown away by the mouthfeel. It was elegant (despite its 15.1% alcohol) and complex. Pepper, florality, blueberry, raspberry, meat, toasted marshmallow. I'd love to hold some of this, but it's so good today! Matthias is really nailing it these days.

So, a hearty Congratulations to Daniel and Monica! We look forward to many more dinners and wines shared over the years to come!

Soliste 'Soleil Rouge' Rose of Pinot Noir 2009

2010-09-20T12:35:00.000-07:00

Claude from Soliste winery came in recently and had dinner at the bar with his lovely wife. It's always a pleasure to see him and anyone, really, who is responsible for making wonderful wines here in California. Or anywhere, for that matter.

As we were discussing the 2010 vintage and its expected results on the wines yet unharvested, I began spewing my love and adoration for his 2009 Rose of Pinot Noir which we have been drinking all summer long. It has definitely been my "go-to" this year. And when has my "go-to" ever been a California rose...?! I love you, Claude!

They do also make some pretty amazing Pinot Noir (red) as well. Very small quantities of two labels. The L'Esperance was my personal favorite in the 2007 vintage - at least for immediate drinking and gratification at the restaurant level. They are very Burgundian in style, but respectful of the fruit of California, commanding elegance and refinement of the grape in a way achieved only by the masters of the grape. (Did I just write that...? A little less wine while blogging...)

As for the delicious 2009 Soliste 'Soleil Rouge' Rose of Pinot Noir, it clocks in at a meager 13.1% alcohol and hails from the Sonoma Coast. As you would expect from French-influence, the color is barely a shade darker than Tempier and every bit as elegant. Perhaps even crisper acidity. The only way you'd suspect it was a New World rose is when the copious amount of ripe red fruits well up on the finish. Crisp strawberry, raspberry, even peach skin, a hint of cranberry, and a whisper of what tastes of caramel. It has the acidity on the attack and mid-palate of an Old World wine. This is a fantastic domestic rose and certainly one of the best I have ever had from California.

I highly recommend you seek out these wines. They are currently working on some additions to the two labels. A new, third, Pinot Noir and a couple of extended-aged Syrahs (a la the La La's from Cote Rotie) that I am highly excited about. And the rose, of course. Lots to discover and they are truly committed to expressing the "truth" in the wines. That is, the character of the vineyard, the nature of the grape, the balance of minimalist winemaking, and dammit - just awesome wine!!! These are super-small production so the mailing list may be the only way to get your hands on them. Believe me, it's worth it!

Stephan Ehlen 'Erdener Treppchen' Riesling Kabinett 2007

2010-09-18T12:42:00.000-07:00

We've been pouring this great little Riesling by the glass at Jar for a while now. It amazes me how few people actually order Riesling there. Usually it's girls who know they're a little sweet and lower in alcohol. AND the smart wine drinkers who know that it pairs fairly well with many of our starters and brilliantly with a select few. I, for one, am happy just to have a glass available to me at the end of a long night of work.

Every time I go back to this Riesling, I rediscover how much I really like it. It's got wonderful complexity and I'm not embarassed to say that it's really inexpensive - probably $15 - $20 retail. On the nose, it offers classic petrol notes, peach, lime candy, white flowers, Meyer lemon, and slate. On the palate, it's slightly sweet, with honey, chamomille and balancing acidity. As far as my palate goes, I could want even a little more acidity. And at 9.5% alcohol, no one has to worry about moving on to the next wine or going in for Round 2!

For the summer, Jar has been serving a Dungeness Crab and Watermelon Salad with Jalapeno Vinaigrette. This has been a spot-on pairing for me and I keep coming back to it. I can't think of anything I'd rather be eating at Jar.

(On a side note - I'm re-tasting this with some Trader Joe's White Cheddar Corn Puffs and totally digging it!!!)

Checking in with Pichon Baron 2004

2010-09-16T12:21:00.000-07:00

I bought the Pichon Baron 2004 for Jar because, on release, it was drinking great and offering a lot of fruit and balanced tannins for diners' immediate enjoyment. Ready to rock and roll, as they say. I haven't tasted it since that day a couple of years ago so it seemed a good a time as any to pay a visit to the old girl.

I love Saturday nights! Not because the restaurant is busy or any nonsense like that, but because Saturday is actually my personal Friday - the day that, at the end of work, starts my weekend. Kara and I usually have a formal dinner when we get home to wash away the week. Thankfully, I get to bring my "manager dinner" home from Jar to share and pair with my lovely bride.

After my (and Jar's) "Perfect Manhattan" which features Blanton's Bourbon, Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth and Angostura Bitters (stirred, not shaken), we moved on to the quickly decanted Pichon Longueville de Baron 2004. Aromatically, it was very focused on fresh flowers, car leather, tobacco, cigar box and fresh black currants. Showing decent fruit, but definitely not fruit-focused. On the palate, it has more blackberry and gravel (a tinge of charcoal, even) and moderately grippy but not intrusive tannin. It finishes fairly long. This is not a profound Pichon Baron, but it's drinking great. The present acidity and tannin drive the finish and tannins build on the palate without the food. With a Dry-Aged Kansas City Steak, as we had, it was just singing!

I doubt this is one for the long haul and it probably won't develop a whole lot of complexity over time, but it's drinking great and in today's world of outrageously-priced Bordeaux, this is an overlooked value from a solid second-growth Chateau. You could pay twice as much for the 2009 and wait three years to get it, too. Then five or ten more to drink it. Your call... I'll be drinking the oft-forgotten 2004.

Domaine Ligneres 'Piece de Roche' 2002

2010-09-14T12:42:00.000-07:00

I remember when I first tasted this wine with one of my wine reps at Jar. I was completely floored and couldn't wait to get it in so I could start introducing people to my new best friend. I thought I was the only person in Los Angeles who must know about this wine. Later, I was eating at Il Grano and discovered Peter Birmingham (a brilliant and talented wine guy) was not only carrying it but pouring it by the glass. Well, at least I was sort of ahead of the curve...

Domaine Ligneres, a family winery located in the Languedoc in the South of France produces the Piece de Roche. The Piece is a term used to refer to the best piece of land or vineyard and this particular Piece was planted by family friend Louis Roche back in the late nineteenth century. What, you say?!!! No one was ALIVE back then! Not true - the 16,000 vines were planted in 1890 to Carignan. CARIGNAN, you say?!!! Yes! And damned good 125-year old vine 100% Carignan it is to this day.

The 2002 is absolutely beautiful still and I am very sad to say that this was the very last bottle I have access to. Jar had long since sold out and I bought one as a memento. The other night, Kara was asking for "something with character, but not so heavy... and not Beaujolais or Rhone!" I quickly realized this was the perfect moment for me to break out the final Piece de Roche 2002.

Of moderate body and very black cherry and plum-focused. The acidity has integrated and it's beginning to show a little more Brett (barnyard) than it used to, but in an acceptable amount that adds complexity. There is an intriguing florality as well and, while it has Rhone-like appeal, one knows that this is a completely different universe. Imminently drinkable and with a lot of appeal, she's still showing great. Kara was bowled over. I wouldn't hold them too much longer myself. For me, this was the perfect last showing and I was happy to have had it again.

While the only other vintage I have tasted is the 2003 (which I was not nearly as taken with), I am suddenly excited again about seeking out this wine. I know the 2004 is on the market - could be a good place to start!

Chicken with Champagne Sauce (and Champagne, of course)

2010-09-12T16:22:00.000-07:00

When I first moved away from home to go to college, I promptly collected all of the recipes that I loved from my family. I didn't want to have to eat only canned food and Lipton Chicken-flavored rice for the rest of my life. So, I got Grandpa's Chili, Dad's Spaghetti Sauce, Grandma's Chicken and Dumplings as well as her Biscuits and Gravy AND Cabbage Rolls, Dee's Potato Salad and, of course, Steak and Tomatoes, and finally Mom's Twice-Baked Potatoes and her Fettucine Alfredo. Oh, and her Caesar Salad. Off to college.

Well, those recipes kept me entertained for a short while and soon I was seeking new challenges. I picked up 365 Ways to Cook Chicken and there I found one of my (and definitely Kara's...) favorite recipes: Chicken with Champagne Sauce. It's a fairly simple dish. Cook a couple of chicken breasts in butter, flambee with Cognac, then cover in Champagne and chicken stock with a little tomato paste for color. Oh - and a buttload of heavy cream! I usually serve it over Linguine. Rich, flavorful, delicious and fairly easy. Plus impressive with the big fire show!

The natural law of food pairing says that if you use a particular wine in the cooking of a dish, said wine should really pair well with the dish as well. Exceptions apply, of course. To cook (and pair) with this dish on tonight's experiment, we used Francois Diligent's Brut Champagne NV. This is a K & L Wine import (if I remember correctly) and only sold by them. Affordably priced and highly touted on the website, it was about $25. Unfortunately, I found it tasted only slightly better than a very good domestic sparkler. So, into the sauce!!!

We drank the other half of the bottle with the meal and, while I wasn't highly impressed with it in the first place, things got decidedly worse with the food. The heft of the dish was not cleansed by the acidity and bubble, but rather made the Champagne taste one step above soda water. All that cream really wanted something a bit heftier on the palate to match. Lesson learned...

Thankfully, the dish came out remarkably well this time and we were so giddy as we haven't pulled this out of the archives in awhile. Some freshly home made French Bread sealed the deal as we sopped up the sauce. I highly recommend this recipe (and the book if you're not a home chef yet) for a decadent and not-too-taxing meal. But maybe this is one of those occasions where you could break out the buttery Chardonnay or Meursault and be a little happier.

Chicken Marsala: Red vs. White

2010-09-10T13:21:00.000-07:00

Okay, so this is kind of a redundant post since we just had Chicken Marsala with the '85 Brunello. But Kara is obsessed with the dish all of a sudden and keeps asking me to make it! It's like crack for her apparently... In order to keep it fresh, I decided to use chicken stock instead of beef and thought I'd pit a red against a white in a battle royal. New World vs. Old World. Red vs. White. Will the red win? Will the California Chardonnay come out on top once more? Will Kara finally get tired of Marsala? Can Rob chop the mushrooms fast enough? Will the dogs ever learn to poop outside?!!!

I did make a homemade loaf of French Bread...

So, for wines we had the Hafner Chardonnay 2007 from Alexander Valley. Everything about this producer reminds me of Jordan winery. The packaging, the profile, the fact that they only make Chard and Cab, the late release. They're even right down the street from each other. The Chard is actually very inexpensive and we've used it at Jar for a few years now as our low-end on the wine list. It's very clear-cut in its style and not really offensive except to snobs like me. The oak usage is moderate and not offensive with a creamy mouthfeel on attack, but uprising acidity on the finish. Kara was happy to drink it.

For red, since Kara HATES Beaujolais, I took this opportunity to drink a 2005 Calot Morgon Vielles Vignes. Old Beaujolais? Well, not that old. But it's drinking well still with lots of fruit and perfectly balanced. Refreshing ripe fruits of cherry, strawberry and raspberry with a little earth underlying. I put a little chill on it and was perfectly happy. I won't hold my last bottle too much longer, though.

The winner..? I don't know - neither of us tried the other's wine with the dish. But I was content with the Morgon and she said the Chard was a good pairing as well. I suppose we could have a rematch tonight as we have plenty of wine left, but that would mean making Marsala AGAIN... Kara wouldn't mind.

Not a chance.

Labor Day Impromptu

2010-09-08T12:17:00.000-07:00

WHAT THE HECK IS WRONG WITH ME?!!!!

We woke up after our party with Cher and Chris feeling less than functional and before I knew it, I was organizing a Labor Day party. Mind you, I wasn't going to make a trip to the store for anything - just a hodge-podge collection of stuff from the many parties over the last week. A "non-laboring" Labor Day, as I put it. Although I was prepping and cooking most of the day anyway...

In attendance were Bill and Beckie with daughter Callie, good friend Michelle, and newlyweds Trae and Hillary.

On the menu: Mini-Filet Mignon Sandwiches with Goat Cheese, White Bean Puree on Crostini, Assorted Cheeses (still...), Tri-Colore Pasta Salad with Corn and Peppers, Aidells's Terriyaki Chicken Meatballs, and some goodies from TJ's that Michelle picked up. Those Filet sandwiches were kickin'!!!

Can't really say there were any formal pairings or insightful matches going on here. It WAS Labor Day - do we really have to think about and analyze the wine? Cause that would be like work and that's what we're not supposed to do! NO - we just popped some really great bottles and celebrated the day off.

To start we tried the recently released Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose 2009. It's gorgeous and everything I love about a rose. Light in body and flavors, but with great depth. It was great with the Delice de Bourgogne cheese. Is the wine overpriced? - sure. But I have to have a bottle or two each year. To follow, I opened my last bottle of Domaine de la Truffiere 'Les Folatieres' Puligny Montrachet 2001. I was thinking this was going over the hill and would probably be showing some oxidation. Boy was I wrong! This is the best bottle I've had of this and certainly the most sound. Completely balanced and drinking perfectly. Crystal clear lemon flavor over green and red apple. Focused minerality. Again, killer with the Burgundian cheese. I actually felt a little wine jealousy that I had to share this bottle...

On to reds! Michelle is a BIG Beaucastel fan so I pulled a bottle of the 2005 Coudoulet de Beaucastel (their second label) for her. It was in the guest cellar specifically for a time when she might come over. I was much less impressed with this than I have been in the past. It seems to be going into that raisin territory and felt a little overblown for my taste.

Trae arrived around that time and I opened a Neal 'Second Chance Vineyard' Cabernet Sauvignon 2002. Unfortunately, it was corked. In place of that, I grabbed an Ashe Family 'Entre Nous' Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. This is a brand new release from a new winery in Oakville that I'm sort of taken with. They only make four barrels of this Cab along with some Sauvignon Blanc. Both are pretty terrific. The fruit is very generous with currant jam balanced by blackberry acidity and mocha. Not mind-bending, but it is a powerful first effort in a strong vintage.

For fun, we next tried another Oakville Cabernet from Tierra Roja 2005. This is another tiny and new producer making under 300 cases on the east side of the valley at the base of the mountains. I've found her wines to be a bit of a roller coaster ride as far as consistency. I originally did not like her 2005, then preferred her 2005 to the 2004, but that has completely reversed in the past few months, with the 2004 returning to be the better wine. These are good quality wines in general, but the 2005 left a bit to be desired last night.

On to the old friends portion of the evening: my last bottle of the 2002 Lewis Cellars 'Alec's Blend' and a 2004 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon. Clearly our palates were fatigued after the line-up so suffice it to say that both were drinking well and served their purpose as follow-up wines to a "t".

Kara woke up the morning after and swore off drinking for awhile. We'll see....

Annual Labor Day Eve with Cher and Chris

2010-09-06T12:34:00.000-07:00

Our very good friends and neighbors Cher and Chris live in another world: the 9 to 5 world where life begins early in the day. It's rare that they ever really have a chance to cut loose and come to the dark side with Kara and I. EXCEPT - on three-day weekends! So, we have a standing commitment every three-day weekend to live it up with the CVA's (Cher and Chris).

We opened the party with a White Bean Puree on Crostini that Kara made from Nancy Silverton's A Twist of the Wrist. It's a simple but delicious recipe and I think they even serve this at Pizzeria Mozza. A cheese plate, of course, as well. And Cher made these really awesome Panko and Coconut-Crusted Shrimp with a Sweet and Sour Dipping Sauce.

To pair to the cheese and shrimp, I opened the recently released Sanguis 'Ramshackle and Threadbare' 2008. If you don't know this winery, you should! Matthias Pippig (owner and winemaker) was Manfred Krankl's assistant (Sine Qua Non) and is pretty much making SQN Jr. With this wine, he branches out from Manfred's mold on his whites and offers an intriguing blend of Roussane, Malvasia Bianca and just a touch of Viognier. The wine is very stone-fruit focused and, while fat on the palate, seems to remain crisp. I was actually pulling a little coconut off the wine which made me think it'd be badass with the shrimp. Man, was it!

The dinner turned out fairly perfectly, if I may say so. I tried to keep it somewhat simple so only one course plated: Beef Wellington, Twice Baked Potato and Sauteed Summer Corn.

Chris pulled a bottle from his cellar and wanted to blind taste me so he foiled it. As we sat for dinner and I sucked down the rest of the Sanguis, I was primed and ready to be tested. For their enjoyment and boredom, I ran through the entire MS format and came to the final conclusion of a 1999 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (potentially Stag's Leap AVA). It turned out to be a 2001 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon from Spring Mountain Vineyard AVA. Close...

I also pulled a bottle and let Kara taste it blind. She didn't go through the format for Cher and Chris, but rather just powered out an impressive conclusion (gut reaction!) Her instinct was a 1986 Left Bank Bordeaux. Well, she was only ten years off, but otherwise dead on with the 1996 Pichon Baron from Pauillac. This wine was drinking surprisingly well for a 1996 - soft integrated tannins and quite a bit of tobacco leaf on the nose and palate. Could have maybe wanted a touch more fruit. A solid wine and I was glad to find it less tannic than many of the other 1996's I've had in recent years.

Chris selected a 1997 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon from the "Guest Grab Bag" Cellar for a post-dinner bottle. I've been underwhelmed with the 1997's for years now and this was no exception. While imminently drinkable, there was very little structure left to this wine and not much more than some ripe (but evolved) fruit. Not bad, but not good - it's Grgich Hills...

The games ensued and the real partying began. I did have a couple of simple desserts prepared, though. First was a Classic Crepe with Nutella. This is just a crowd-pleaser everytime. Who doesn't love Crepes?!!! The second was a very simple Baked Peach with Nocello Whipped Cream and a Tupelo Honey Drizzle.

To pair to the peach dessert, I opened a 2001 Chateau Myrat Sauternes. I've never found this to be a profound wine, but it's a great vintage and relatively inexpensive for Sauternes. Kara loved it back when we first tasted it, but she was also brand new to Sauternes and seemed to like ALL of them. The wine was good: some baked apricot flavors and honey, orange marmalade, lemon. Not cloying at all - I might have even liked a little more perception of sweetness. The peach was great, though, and it makes me want to cook some more simple fruit desserts before the summer is over.

Another fantastic party! Thanks to the CVA's for their participation and contributions! What a relief that home was only three doors away. At least no one passed out this time...

Chicken Marsala and 1985 Il Colle Brunello

2010-09-05T12:14:00.000-07:00

I guess we've been on an Italian kick lately. I keep wanting to drink wines from Italy and, of course, that makes me want to cook Italian food. Our neighbors went to Tuscany recently and I guess that's been reinforcing the habit. They brought us back a jar of pesto that I've been hoarding in the cabinet, looking for just the perfect moment to bust out!

It's been eons since I've made Chicken Marsala and, for whatever reason, it called to me while I was "zombie-ing" around the aisles of the grocery store yesterday. With a bottle of Dry Marsala in hand, I was off to whip up some brilliance. On that note, many recipes, I noticed, call for a Sweet Marsala. I prefer to keep my dishes a little less sweet to work better with the wines. And the final product did not disappoint.

To pair with the Chicken Marsala and Buttered Pasta, I opened a 1985 Il Colle Brunello di Montalcino Reserva. This is an interesting wine because, as I understand it, these wine have all been just recently released from the winery in Montalcino. Apparently, the kids inherited this winery and found all this wine so they're selling it off. Brand new labels and all these old vintages - cool stuff! And they aren't that expensive! I'd say they probably retail around $75-ish.

This was my first time with the 1985 and boy was it Brett-y! Brettanomyces is a "fault" in wine that makes it smell like barnyard or horse poo. Delicious! Actually, small amounts are acceptable and add complexity, particularly in European wines (Bordeaux especially!). In America, it's highly frowned upon and stands out like a sore thumb. This was a little overboard, in my opinion, and I don't generally mind Brett. There was fairly good strucure and acidity left here with vibrant cherry/plum/raspberry fruit. Typical spice and leather notes, mushroom. I liked this wine, but I wouldn't go chasing down any more of it, myself.

It was very good with the chicken, though! The funky, earthy tones were totally balanced out by the mushrooms and the truffle oil I added to the pasta last minute to help with the Brett. All in all, a great meal! No complaints at all.

Holland Gouda and Sam Smith Stout

2010-09-03T12:04:00.000-07:00

We're still slowly working through the cheese from the party on Sunday. I don't know how I thought people were going to be able to eat this much cheese!!! I put out about half of what I bought so I could reload with fresh reinforcements when necessary. We never got through more than the first onslaught!

So, I take these opportunities to play with cheese pairing. I got a decent Gouda from Holland that Kara is going ga-ga for. My "go to" Bible recommends dark Ales, Stout, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Alsace wines. I pulled a 1er Cru Beaune from Chanson 2005 and popped a Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout.

The Stout worked great! Actually, we also had Delice de Bourgogne and an English White Cheddar on the plate as well. The Delice really emphasized the sweeter caramel/cane syrup tones in the beer, while the Gouda drew out the smokier and ashy marshmallow side. Kara, who hates dark beer, preferred it with the Gouda, but still didn't want to drink it.

The Burgundy did well with all of the cheeses actually, but it seems to be in an odd place right now in its lifespan. It's not giving off much character. Fruity, sure! Straightforward fruit with not much else. I'm hoping that it's going to develop some nuance over time. Yes, opening these things so soon is infanticide, but you've got to be able to try them sometimes!

So, only 73 more servings of cheese to go! I'm putting calls out to everyone I know to come help. Wine is included - just show up!

Aglianico and Pasta

2010-09-01T20:48:00.000-07:00

Kara works at Mario Batali's Osteria Mozza, which I feel I must have mentioned at some point in this process. She drug me to the inaugural "Wine Lunch" at the Pizzeria side one day (months ago...) with wines from Re Manfredi. This is a producer from Basilicata who specializes in cool climate, volcanic soil-ridden Aglianico. Well, any excuse to eat Mozza pizza...

The lunch was actually really fantastic! The pairings were very insightful and the wines showed wonderully against the dishes. My particular favorite was the entry-level Aglianico with a Duck Confit, Roasted Cherries and Sage. It was brilliant! I promptly got on the phone as I left Mozza and bought a couple of six-packs for Jar's list. As well as his highly delicious Muller Thurgau/Traminer blend to pour by the glass through the summer!

After time passes, I always like to revisit these wines in a new context and having had some time to let the "hype" in my head settle down. So, I pulled a bottle of the Aglianico del Vulture from Re Manfredi 2005 to pair to a simple Spaghetti and Meatballs. Truth is, we didn't feel much like going out, so this was a makeshift pasta using leftover Aidell's Mozzarella/Tomato Meatballs from my Bday Party on Sunday. They worked great, I must say!

While I didn't have tremendously high hopes for this pairing, it worked pretty well and I had no complaints. Kara, who always gets blind-tasted on everything we open, put Aglianico in her primary possibilities. She has often remarked that Aglianico tastes of "flat Cherry Coke" to her. She's not consistent in her blind tasting, but once in awhile (and usually something obscure or very specific) she will knock it out of the park. I was impressed!

The Aglianico was particularly plummy with black cherry and smoke, a little tar and rocky mineral underlying. Of moderate body, it still showed off some pleasant acidity that worked with the tomato sauce. Hints of licorice added another layer. It was fairly straight-forward, but perfectly delicious and a good food wine.

I think I mentioned that we had a birthday party on Sunday - I'm not writing it up in this blog since we didn't drink any wine. It was pretty much a beer and cocktail gathering with some good friends. I think the best pairing of the day was the Cuban cigars and the Oban 14 Scotch that Josh and Cheree got me. But I think the birthday has officially ended - I can't take anymore celebrating!